[TC]² Bi-Weekly Technology Communicator |
November 30, 2005 |
Today’s Fiber Innovations: An Epicurean Delight
By Kim Anderson, Ph.D., writer/reporter for [TC]²
Today, the line-up of fiber innovations reads like a grocery list — corn, banana and seaweed... not exactly what comes to mind when you think of textiles. Somehow the historic introduction of fibers such as nylon and polyester seems a little more digestible than what’s being served up today. Wallace Carothers and his team of scientists making fibers from giant molecules appears a bit more palatable. And now, another curve ball — soybeans. Actually, the new “vegetable cashmere” is not all that new. In the 1940’s motor magnate Henry Ford donned the first known suit and tie made of soybean yarns.
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Henry Ford in a Suit and Tie Constructed with Yarns made from Soybean Fibers |
Because of manufacturing difficulties, interest subsided and the technology went adrift until recent innovations by Mr.Li Guanqi, the Father of Soybean Protein Fiber. Thanks to Mr. Li Guanqi, soybean fibers are now produced in bulk via the wet spinning process.
Today, the soybean fiber, the only protein based plant fiber, is being touted for its soft hand, “second-skin” comfort, luster, loft, durability and drape. It is easily cleaned in a home washing machine and requires no special care.
Previous difficulties in bleaching and dyeing, poor uniformity, brightness of shade and deepness of color, have been solved. Yarns composed of pure soybean fibers and soybean blended with other fibers can be successfully dyed using an acid or a reactive dye.
Soybean Fiber
Courtesy of Beijing Fabric Garden Textile Trade Center
Yarns made from Soybean Fiber
Courtesy of Beijing Fabric Garden Textile Trade Center
Soybean fibers have been blended with a variety of other fibers, including wool, silk and cotton. Some claim that when blended with silk, clothing is more absorbent and softer to the touch than clothing constructed with 100% soybean. It is also wrinkle free.
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Soy/Silk/Wool Yarns |
Knit Fabric Constructed with Soy/Silk Yarns |
Courtesy of South West Trading Co. |
The biodegradable soybean fiber is reported to have inherent “healthy functions.” The fiber is resistant to bacteria, ultraviolet rays and odor. Some say the fiber even has an anti-aging effect.
Although more expensive than organic cotton, soybean fibers are making a successful splash in the apparel, home furnishing and toy markets. With a cursory search on the internet, you will quickly find a variety of products, including the Tofu T, Edamame Wrap and the super soft Tofu Bear.
Tofu Bear
Courtesy of South West Trading Co.
If you find this new fiber innovation difficult to swallow, remember — Carothers and Ford were working fervently and concurrently on polymers and vegetable fibers respectively in the 1940’s.
Pertinent to the present, with the over supply of cheap commodity goods, many domestic manufacturers are keeping a tenuous foothold in today’s competitive market. Offering distinctive products could become their life’s blood. The unique biodegradable soybean fiber, having desirable physical and mechanical properties and built-in “healthy functions,” might be just the entrée they’ve been looking for.
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[TC]² Body Scanning Around the Country and the Globe
With the increased interest in 3D body scanning applications, it’s quite possible you’ve come across [TC]² body scanner technology in retail, research, or in promotional venues. Body scanning is now beginning to be widely used for customized apparel, size prediction, apparel product development, military and commercial sizing surveys, and numerous educational and research applications. Over 40 [TC]² NX-12 3D body scanners were shipped during the last twelve months, a significant increase and a sign that the widespread use of body scanning is upon us, enabled by the size, price, and accurate performance of the NX-12.
Size Prediction at Saks 5th Avenue with Hugo Boss
 October 22nd was a big day at Saks 5th Avenue with a celebration of an updated men’s floor with a focus on a new centralized Hugo Boss section. Two highlights of the event were a fashion show with hundreds of attendees, and a [TC]² body scanner for customers to obtain sizing information for assistance in product selection. Customers who were scanned walked away with a printed card of their sizing needs for suits, shirts, slacks, and shoes. The NX-12 scanner was set up in the exclusive product area of Hugo Boss and was busy all day. The application for Hugo Boss was developed in less than a week due to the automated size prediction generation software developed by [TC]² used in combination with the SizeUSA national body scan survey data of over 10,000 people representing a statistical sample of the U.S. population.
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Customers received a listing of measurements for shopping assistance and for assistance with future purchases on a hard plastic permanent card. |
Custom Jeans in Paris at Le Bon Marché and in London at Selfridges with Bodymetrics
 Bodymetrics has offered custom jeans and real time garment on body visualization at Selfridges in London for some time and their second site has just opened in Paris at Le Bon Marché. The new system was installed on November 6 and was officially launched on November 16. The new system is sporting a custom high-tech fashion forward body scanner shell and is placed at the center of activity within the jeans department. Bodymetrics is selling two jeans lines at this location; their own brand priced at €250 and jeans from Serfontaine priced at €450. The customer can choose the fabric, rise, and leg style, and be assured of the perfect fitting pair of jeans.
The Bodymetrics site at Selfridges will be updated with [TC]²’s latest NX-12 scanner technology and will re-open in a new high profile location within the store in early December. Shape Analysis Ltd., [TC]²’s UK partner for scanner sales, installation, and service, has worked closely with Bodymetrics to integrate the scanning system with their 3D tools. “We use remote desktop access to monitor the scanner performance remotely,” comments Richard Allen, President of Shape Analysis. “This allows for a minimum of downtime as is necessary for retail installations.”
Custom Men’s Tailored Clothing across the USA
Benchmark Clothiers is developing a network of 3D body scanning locations for custom apparel, and has opened a new showroom and distribution facility in Jacksonville, Arkansas. Photos of their storefront are included below.
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| Benchmark Clothiers Storefront |
Benchmark has developed a automated system containing their customer ordering application and connecting their store sites via the internet to their manufacturing and distribution facilities and are beginning a nationwide rollout of systems across the U.S.
Sizing Study for Tween Girls
 In an effort to better understand sizing for girls ages 9-14, Auburn University researchers scanned nearly 120 tween girls using the [TC]² NX-12 transportable 3D scanner. This is the second phase of a National Textile Center project to understand sizing, motivation, and satisfaction with apparel for girls in this age range. Mothers accompanied the tween girls and both responded to a detailed survey in a local mall probing shopping habits, current sizes worn, body image, and influences in decision-making related to apparel. [TC]² was also a partner in the first phase of the project which included a series of focus groups and body scans with normal and plus-size tween girls and their moms.
Tri-Service Military Sizing Survey with Body Scanning Kicks Off in the UK
QinetiQ is leading the Haldane-Spearman consortium in this effort consisting of over 20 members. Within this consortium QinetiQ has teamed with the Dutch company TNO and the UK's Health and Safety Laboratories to carry out an MOD tri-service anthropometry survey. The survey aims to collect representative numbers of anthropometric data through a stratified sample which will take into account, gender, age, ethnic background, military service and job trade within each service. QinetiQ and partners will aim to capture anthropometric data from a population of around 5000 service personnel, using 25 weeks of scanning time and the 2T4 and NX-12 3D whole body scanners from [TC]². Data collection begins in 2006 and will form part of an up-to-date anthropometric database that can be used by designers or military equipment, clothing, etc. to better facilitate the UK's armed forces. The project is to be completed by March 2007.
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[TC]² Activity
AAFA Supply Chain Leadership Committee
On November 2, the AAFA’s Supply Chain Leadership committee met for two days in Nashville,TN. The Supply Chain Leadership Committee, which began as the Quick Response Leadership Committee, is celebrating its tenth anniversary and continues to explore leading edge thinking and technologies at their bi-annual meetings. At the Nashville meeting, subjects discussed were:
“If I Can Source There, Can I Sell There?” Jim Sciabarrasi from New Balance described the processes and challenges in making and selling their athletic shoes for the domestic Chinese market. One key issue is protecting your brand. How will the brand be distributed? Where will the brand appear? Choosing the right partner will greatly enhance the probability of success.
A panel on “Successful End to End Supply Chain Models for Latin America” consisting of Mike Todaro from AAPN, Geoff Gibson from Argus, and Keith Crisco from Asheboro Elastics, highlighted the need for supply chain investment in Latin America. There are holes in the supply chain after CAFTA-DR passed that need to be filled (like fabric and yarn production). It was noted that innovation in the textile supply chain starts with fiber and yarn. A bottom weight woven factory can take about two years to build.
A “Six Sigma Introduction” was presented by Steve Freudenthal from Milliken. Six Sigma can facilitate understanding customer needs with the use of data and statistical analysis. The five phases for Six Sigma improvement projects are define, measure, analyze, improve, and control. The five phases for design projects are define, measure, analyze, develop, and verify. Projects should be chartered by top management and last no more than 6 to 9 months. It was noted that 50% of companies give up on Six Sigma after 1 to 2 years.
John Thorbeck from Supply Chainge Inc. presented his thoughts on “Lead Time Optimization” - the optimized selection and management of inbound supply options - is the most powerful counter to demand risk and the richest source of profitability. The biggest opportunity to reduce markdowns and stock-outs is reducing time to market. Improved forecasting is of great value if the supply chain is flexible. Postponement is the key to fast fashion (postponing the construction of the finished product). Other keys for success are the ability to translate trends quickly and reduce the time from design to store shelf.
One of the highlights of the meeting was a tour of the Carhartt distribution center in Hanson, KY hosted by Rick Linville, Vice President of Distribution & Logistics. Carhartt is a leading manufacturer of some of the finest workwear clothing in the world.
Carhartt’s domestic sewing plants deliver over 20 million items a year to the distribution center for handling. Over 15,500 SKU’s are stored, picked, packed, and shipped to Carhartt’s retail customers. The stored items are kept in the highbay stack area in two sizes: about 30,000 bigpack locations and 558,000 case locations.
High Stack Area
The bustling picking area located upstairs handles small orders. Employees are equipped with portable bar code scanners to quickly and accurately fill each order. In addition to classic distribution, Carhartt offers added value services to all their customers, large and small. As an added service to their retail customers, Carhartt will take a single unit order on the Internet from the store and ship it directly to the consumer.
Upstairs Picking
For information on joining the AAFA Supply Chain Leadership Committee or future committee meetings, go to www.apparelandfootwear.org.
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Member Profile
Russell Corporation :Quality Made on the Playing Field
Founded in Alexander City, Alabama in 1902, Russell Corporation has given the world quality and value in its many products. Russell also prides itself on its commitment to its employees and the communities where it operates. Russell has long been a company that is able to take advantage of changes in technology and the marketplace and had been able to keep inline and on top of changes in its products.
Throughout its history, Russell has been able to build on its heritage as an athletic company and has become a global leader in the sporting goods industry. The company produces apparel and equipment for all levels of activity - from the playing fields of major colleges to the backyards of homes in every neighborhood in America. Popular and well-known brands such as Russell Athletic, JERZEES, Spalding, Moving Comfort and a variety of technical running shoes from Brooks Sports, Russell Corporation is able to successfully supply the serious athlete or the weekend warrior with a quality product.
Russell Corporation started on a small scale with a few pieces of equipment, in a small building, but was able to become a pioneer in the athletic team uniform business. Most notably, Russell Corporation was one of the first companies to produce the sweatshirt – clearly the most popular athletic product of all. Today, the company is a major branded athletic and sporting goods company with over a century in marketing athletic uniforms, apparel and equipment for a wide variety of sports and fitness activities. A global operation built on well-known brands and quality products, the company is a leading supplier of team uniforms in the U.S. and is the largest provider of basketball equipment in the world with its Spalding group of businesses that includes Huffy Sports and American Athletics, Inc.
Spalding and Huffy Sports recently signed on for an eight-year equipment agreement with the NBA. This will allow Russell Corporation to continue their involvement with one of the fastest growing sports in the world. American Athletics’ AAI brand is a well-known name in gymnastics and the leading provider of equipment for that sport. Moving Comfort also holds a strong position in running with its apparel especially designed for women.
Russell Corporation consistently supports non-profit organizations with product donations, cash contributions and employee volunteer hours. The company is a long time member of [TC]². Juan Ruiz, Vice President of International Operations, serves on [TC]²’s Executive Committee and Board of Directors.
For more information on Russell Corporation please visit: www.russellcorp.com
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Important Dates
December
5-7 |
29th Miami Conference on the Caribbean Basin (CCAA), For details, visit www.c-caa.org |
Dec 22 -
Jan 2 |
[TC]² office closed for the holidays. |
January
February
For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com
Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Intentia, Lectra and Methods Workshop.
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A Look Ahead in the Newsletter
December 14 Issue – A holiday greeting from [TC]²’s President Mike Fralix will summarize the year’s activities.
View previous editions of this newsletter
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