TC2 - Newsletter

Silk fiber is produced by the larvae of a wide variety of moths, the Bombyx mori being the most predominant. After hatching, the larva no longer than a ¼ of an inch, begins about a 35 day growth cycle consisting of eating and molting. At nearly three inches in length, the larva ceases to eat, rears its head and begins to spew silk liquid. Although a rather humble beginning, once wound onto a cone, silk becomes the “queen of fibers.”

Hasegawa Yarns of Japan, represented in the U.S. by Bishop & Co. Inc., produces some of the most stunning high-end silk yarns in the world. Jeff Burton, owner of Bishop & Co. says Hasegawa is the leader in the business as far as quality. Burton explains that silk is one of the toughest fibers to dye well - it tends to streak, resulting in uneven dyeing. The silk fiber is “loaded with goo” which needs to be “degummed, cleaned and cleaned.” Burton says good dyeing is all in the preparation. A lot of people piece dye and there can be “high fallout.” Nearly 10% of sweaters dye streaky. Burton says Hasegawa does a phenomenal job. “The yarn maybe more expensive” but “eliminating fallout makes it cheaper in the end.”

For ingenuity, creativity, and color choice Hasegawa's portfolio, which boasts over 200 novelty yarns, holds a commanding position in the yarn world. The impressive lineup includes basic spun and plied, which comes in over eighty colors, heavyweight rovings, boucles, fur yarns and more.

For a totally different look, check out the brightly colored recycled silk yarns from Nepal. Anni Kristensen, owner of Himalaya Yarn started offering these rustic beauties to the U.S. market in 1996. After working in Asia for almost 30 years in “one capacity or another,” Kristensen, a consummate hand knitter, was contacted about the potential marketing of a sweater made from recycled yarns. Kristensen and her Tibetan partner, Tsewang, decided to market the yarn not the finished product.

Kristensen explains the yarn consists of two materials- old saris and remnant fabrics from industrial weaving. Weft and warp yarns are manually pulled out, cut and blended. The fibers are hand spun into bright multicolored chunky yarns. Yarns are all random making no two cones alike.

Courtesy of Himalaya Yarn

There are numerous legends surrounding the discovery of silk- making it difficult to distinguish between truth and fiction. The most common story is that silk was discovered sometime between 2700 BC and 2600 BC by the Chinese Empress, Xi Ling Shi. Concerned about the imperial mulberry grove, Emperor Huang Ti appointed Xi Ling Shi to investigate the tiny white worms that were devouring the tree's leaves. Gathering a bundle of cocoons, Xi Ling Shi went to her apartment where she accidentally dropped one into a basin of hot water. The empress noticed that the cocoon separated into a delicate cobweb-like tangle from which she could draw a slender tiny filament. China held the secret of silk and sericulture for nearly 3000 years. Around 300 AD the secret of this splendid fiber gradually began to spread to the rest of the world.

Acknowledgements
Anni Kristensen, Himalaya Yarns, Cochester, VT.
Jeff Burton, Bishop & Co. Inc., East Providence, RI
Kentaro Mishima, Hasegawa Corporation, Japan

References
Joseph, Marjory. Introductory Textile Science. 5th ed. CBS College Publishing, 1986.

At Apparel's Executive Forum, senior-level executives from the retail, brand and manufacturing sectors exchange ideas on pressing issues and discuss innovative strategies. This year's forum was held in Naples, Florida on October 9-11.

James Rice, a recognized expert in supply chain design, opened the forum with a presentation entitled Supply Chain of the Future. Rice discussed the growing threats posed by natural disasters, terrorist attacks and supply/logistics failures. He examined methods for designing a supply chain that could withstand these potential disruptions.

Maxine Clark, Founder & CEO of Build-A-Bear Workshop, gave an inspiring presentation entitled Build-A-Bear Workshop's Customer Optimization Strategy. Tapping into years of retail experience and honing in on her sixth sense for detecting emerging trends, Clark launched a unique company that offers a highly interactive retail experience.

In a one hour workshop, Build-A-Bear customers build a one of a kind “new furry friend.” Customers choose the animal style, stuff and fluff it, name it and create a personalized birth certificate. Stuffed animals start at $10.00. Specialized touches such as outfits and built-in personalized voice messages can be added. The age of the target customer ranges from 3-103 years old.

Although mass customization was never mentioned, the Build-A-Bear concept gave an insight into the challenging yet promising opportunities associated with customized products.

Paul Herring gave a dynamic presentation entitled How Technology Should Drive Your Enterprise Vision . What might seem to be a dry topic turned out to be thought provoking and entertaining. Herring cleverly and effectively compared the relatively peaceful outdoor sport of fishing with the sometimes overwhelming job of choosing the right technology.

Herring warned that keeping all the fish is not a good idea. Throw back the fish that are too small and not well developed — like new technology, the young fish will be better when they mature. Although reeling in the huge older fish is an exciting challenge — like older technology, it can take too much time and energy. Herring recommends focusing on the “keepers,” the right-sized fish, — like the appropriate technology, they provide the maximum value.

Other presentations delved into such pressing issues as getting product to market quickly; fine tuning the supply chain; new retail concepts and strategies; and drawing consumers to shopping centers.

Hurricane Katrina Relief
To learn more about how our industry is responding and ways your company can be of assistance, visit www.apparelandfootwear.org.

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