[TC]² Bi-Weekly Technology Communicator

October 18, 2006	Index • Material World - September 26-28, 2006 • There’s a New Technology in Town: Laser Engraving • [TC]² Activity - [TC]² Fall Board Meeting • Member Profile - MODINT • Integrating Consumers into the PD Process • Important Dates • A Look Ahead • Sign Up or Unsubscribe

Material World

September 26-28, 2006

By Karen Davis, Jim Lovejoy and Mike Fralix, [TC]²

The second New York City fabric and sourcing event offered more vendors and a different geographic representation than the Miami Show in May of this year.  Some of the 22 countries represented included Nigeria, Cameroon, Ethiopia, Ghana, Taiwan, China and Korea.  On one aisle there were an assortment of trim companies, with zippers, buttons and other findings. A cross section of technology companies were well represented as well as a fashion trend area. 

New Generation Computing announced new releases of its RedHorse®, e-PDM and e-SPS® solutions which comprise NGC’s SQL series, an end-to-end suite of solutions for the soft goods industry.  The Trend area was sponsored by Lectra, showcasing its Fashion PLM and new design offerings.  A unique display of ladder-backed chairs painted to represent the seasonal color trend forecast were lined along one perimeter of the trend section, along with fabric swatches in a variety of textures and finishes.   

A comprehensive educational program was offered, with AAFA and other companies presenting a number of seminars on legislative issues, financial supply chain, trend forecasting, PLM, and global sourcing and logistics topics. 

[TC]² had booth space in the Technology Solutions area, and enjoyed meeting acquaintances from across the soft goods chain to strengthen existing relationships, as well as introductory discussions with new colleagues for future collaboration opportunities.

In 2007, the triennial event will take place May 8-10 at the Miami Beach Convention Center which will include SPESA Expo, Material World, and Technology Solutions.  [TC]² is partnering with other organizations to provide an exhibit which will incorporate many new technologies that have not been shown at previous trade shows.  For more details, visit www.spesaexpo.com.

During the show, the [TC]² staff made a side trip to visit Shima Seiki’s new design center on 7th Avenue.  Sample products line the showroom, along with several books of virtual 3D designs which are used by leading brands for ideas to create a unique product. 

Tony McBryan is working with clients to develop customized garments, which are available from 3-15 gauge.  The WholeGarment® knitting technology allows for buttonholes, loops, hooks, and elastic to be knit in.  Jacquards can be created in three colors.  McBryan also displayed a seamless polo shirt which has been created.  Additionally, Shima Seiki can print on garments after they are knit.  Currently, all of Lands’ End men’s cashmere sweaters are seamless products using the WholeGarment technology, as well as a portion of the Drifter line of sweaters.  Shima Seiki offers services from design to the finished product, including enhancements. 

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There's a New Technology in Town: Laser Engraving

By Kim Anderson, Ph.D., [TC]²

The classic jean is strong, durable, comfortable and oh-so fashionable. Manufacturers are keeping this classic on the fashion radar by stoning, icing, burning and drilling the beloved jean to create novel and unique effects. There’s a new technology that is producing some amazing looks on denim. With the popularity of special effects surging, it’s a good time to check-out laser engraving.

Classic denim is constructed with a blue indigo warp and an undyed weft. Indigo, originally derived from plants, is probably the oldest colorant used to dye textiles. Indigo has also been thought to remedy an eclectic list of ailments including cancer, depression and even rabies.

Today, indigo is a synthetically produced vat dye that is bound to the fabric by mechanical forces rather than chemical. Unlike other vat dyes, indigo has very little affinity to cotton—making it perfectly suited for wash-down treatments.

The laser technology utilizes a beam of light, to produce a non-contact mark on the denim fabric. When engraving denim, the laser burns away the indigo dye to produce a worn look.

TechnoLines, LLC is a company dedicated to developing and commercializing what it calls “laser scribing.” Having eighteen patents to its credit, TechnoLines is on the forefront of this exciting technology. Darryl J. Costin, CEO of TechnoLines, explains the benefits of laser engraving.

Costin points out that in hand sanding a tremendous amount of dust is generated which can be detrimental to worker’s health. In the laser engraving process air contaminants are contained. The engraving process can effectively mimic hand processes to create whiskers and worn areas with precision and consistency.

Examples of whiskers and wash down appearance obtained from laser engraving Courtesy of TechnoLines

Designs can be strategically placed anywhere on the jean—even over pockets, snaps and seams. Patterns can be matched at the seams to create an all over design.

Designs over pockets and seams Courtesy of TechnoLines

Costin explains that a number of parameters such as speed, frequency, power and spot size can be tweaked to produce different degrees of degradation, detailed effects and even holes.

Intricate Designs Courtesy of TechnoLines

Holes obtained from laser engraving Courtesy Symtech

Laser engraving is faster than many conventional methods used to distress jeans. Depending on the intricacy of the design, a pair of jeans can be engraved in minutes.

Not only can denim be laser engraved, but pile fabrics as well. The laser burns away the pile in selected areas leaving a permanent design that closely mimics an embossed pattern. 100% cotton corduroy and velvet can be laser engraved to produce an impressive permanent design without the use of resins.

Laser Engraving on Pile Fabrics Courtesy of TechnoLines

Full width fabric can be engraved.

Full width fabric being engraved Courtesy of TechnoLines

In stone washing there is considerable wear and tear on the machines and water waste; however, in the laser engraving process there is no wear and tear and zero water waste.

Regardless of what you call it—scribing, engraving or etching—this new technology offers some amazing benefits, both environmental and aesthetic.

For more information, visit www.technolines.com.

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[TC]² Activity
[TC]² Fall Board Meeting – October 4th

By Karen Davis, [TC]²

[TC]²’s Fall Board meeting was opened by President, Mike Fralix, with a review of the company’s financial performance.  Fralix also discussed consulting activities for the year, with many domestic and Latin American projects either completed or ongoing.  In the technology development segment presented by David Bruner, the focus on product development using 3D technologies included scanning swimmers for Speedo at US and UK swim events, and development of new sizing guidelines for product developers based on SizeUSA data.  3D scanner activity included a second scanner acquisition by Brooks Brothers for its Short Hills, NJ store; an installation at Harrods in the UK; the US Coast Guard; an all-UK military services survey being conducted by Qinetiq; and Benchmark scanner deployments in health/fitness venues for tracking body fat, BMI, and historical changes in body shape as the subject progresses with diet and exercise programs. 

Jud Early presented [TC]²’s technology dissemination outreach, including technology discovery trips; newsletters; and the demonstration center, with software updates and additions, and the addition of a Brother t-shirt printer and heat press equipment.  Jim Lovejoy discussed industry programs, including seminars; the SizeUSA Users Group meeting; the reinstatement of the summer student intern program, with ten students participating in 2006; and various trade show participation, including the Apparel Conference of the Americas, MAGIC, Material World, Apparel Tech Conference, and the upcoming SPESA Expo 2007.

Special guest Han Bekke of MODINT, a trade association in the Netherlands, presented an update on the International Apparel Federation, IAF, which has now moved its base of operations from the UK to the MODINT offices.  Founded in 1976, the IAF membership includes 32 countries and 150,000 companies.  The next annual convention will be in Taiwan.  With a theme of Building Bridges, the IAF organization represents the world’s apparel value chain, including suppliers and retailers, as well as manufacturers.  The intent is to create a bridge between creativity and commerce.  In the past, the presidency of the organization has changed annually.  A new business plan calls for an independent Secretariat, which will be a permanent position, and a president that will serve for two years. 

Dave Gardner of SPESA discussed the 2007 Expo, to be held in Miami May 8-10, co-located with Material World and Technology Solutions.  This is the triennial event for the sewn products industry in the U.S.  One combined seminar series will be developed with AAFA and [TC]² will manage the SPESA portion of the programs.    [TC]² will have a large exhibition space, which will include several new technologies with various partner participation. 

Kevin Burke of the AAFA discussed his organization’s activities, whose primary goal is advocacy.  The AAFA is active in trade matters, including CAFTA implementation, and has a wide range of educational programs for apparel and footwear entities.

Jim Leonard, the recently-retired Deputy Assistant Secretary of the US Department of Commerce, shared his views with regard to the sewn products industry, which is still in the U.S. and active.  He presented some examples of DOC support, including the recent You Wear US Well booth at MAGIC, which included 16 companies showcasing their products.  There is now a waiting list of companies who would like to participate in future events.

Two special presentations closed the program – Dr. Blan Godfrey, North Carolina State University, discussed innovations at the College of Textiles, including several new research centers and technical labs. The college has engaged several companies in new research partnerships on the campus.  Dave Stefan of Novaptus presented applications of body scanning in the medical industry.  Novaptus has been advising doctors on optimum methods of surgery on obese patients through techniques such as a virtual operation and a new bariatric measurement system.

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Member Profile

By Karen Davis, [TC]²

MODINT is the Dutch trade association for fashion and textiles, based in Zeist, 40 miles outside of Amsterdam. The organization represents 800 members, including 200 interior, 500 fashion, and 100 textile companies. Carpet firms are included in the interior membership, with 100% of carpets manufactured in the Netherlands, while 90% of apparel and other interior products are manufactured elsewhere, mainly in Mediterranean countries. The clothing industry is a 9 billion euro business, with 4 billion euros of exports, mostly to Germany, and also Belgium and UK customers. Imports represent 6 billion euros annually, mainly from China and Germany. Han Bekke, Director General of MODINT, manages the organization with a staff of 53 people.

The association brings companies together, and defends its members’ interests in legal, economic, financial, and technical matters with government, trade unions, suppliers, customers, and national and international associations. It represents 80% of the market, and provides central buying power for insurance, logistics, and energy savings. Memberships are assessed a flat annual rate, regardless of the size of the company. Service modules are offered, and each member is obligated to utilize one. They include:

• Consulting – social and legal support; market support both domestically and for exports; and buying and outward production.

• Credit management – credit management and collection assistance domestically and abroad; negotiation of delivery and payment   conditions; credit insurance and factoring; and Internet-based MODINT Watch, which offers access to company credit profiles.

• A database of retailers

• Factoring

• MODINT ARBO – arbitration assistance for illness and absenteeism reduction

• MODINT Academy – educational workshops and training programs

• MODINT Insurance

• MODINT Legal Services – in process

MODINT acts as a bridge between creativity (designers) and business, finding small production opportunities for entrepreneurs. The association also works with the Dutch Fashion Foundation to promote products outside of Holland.

Other action areas for MODINT include compliance issues, with regard to social conduct and environmental regulations; trade policies such as anti-dumping and quotas; and trade missions.  

The IAF (International Apparel Federation) headquarters have been relocated to the Netherlands, and MODINT is putting together a business plan for the organization. Han Bekke and Harry van Dalfsen, Chairman of the MODINT Board, recently visited [TC]² following meetings with AAFA to discuss mutual areas of interest and collaboration as the reorganization of IAF takes shape.

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Integrating the Consumer into the Product Development Process

By Mike Fralix, [TC]² and Bill D’Arienzo, WDA BrandMarketing Solutions

If you haven’t already made plans to attend the Apparel Tech Conference in New York on November 8-9, you may want to reconsider. We will be presenting a session on November 9th at 2 p.m. to discuss how technology can be used to address this important issue.

  1.   Are merchandisers tired of working with designers that fail to see the big picture?

  2.   Are designers tired of the controls that production and sourcing managers are putting on their creativity?

  3.   Are sourcing executives tired of the design staff taking liberties with practical necessities, that is, to keep price quality and brand         relevancy in balance?

  4.   Are sales and marketing managers looking for a way to play a more active role in product development?

As companies have moved from domestic production to offshore souring, inefficiencies in the product development cycle are having a greater impact on the overall effect of products that are in development and it is usually too late when it is discovered that a product is not going to be accepted by the consumer at retail.

Products Preferred® is a process which allows digital, controlled data bases to provide consumer insights as to their preferences prior to making sample/piece goods commitments. Qualified consumers of targeted brands provide an objective platform for guidance, helping to resolve differences of opinion between design and merchandising and other functionalities in the product development chain. Products Preferred® incorporates a consumer certified process that can identify which SKU’s are likely to sell and which are likely to fail, thereby increasing the opportunity to improve the bottom line.

For more information, go to www.productspreferred.com.

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Important Dates

October

November

December

For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com

Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors
Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Intentia, Lectra, Methods Workshop and Reach Technologies.

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A Look Ahead in the Newsletter


MEGATEX
SEAMS Fall Meeting
Apparel Tech Conference

View previous editions of this newsletter

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