Index El Foro Conference ASAP Global Sourcing Show Patternmaking - Past to Present [TC]² Activity - Research Directions Member Profile - Gütermann Important Dates A Look Ahead

El Foro

Three leading industry organizations, AHM (The Honduran Manufacturers Association), SPESA, and [TC]², have joined forces to present a conference September 19-20 at the Club Arab in San Pedro Sula, Honduras. El Foro will feature presentations on trade issues, country focus reports, and viewpoints from retailers and brand manufacturers. For details, visit www.ahm-honduras.com.

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ASAP Show

The Sands Expo/Venetian in Las Vegas is the site for The ASAP Global Sourcing Show August 28-31. It will feature full-package overseas apparel manufacturers showcasing their production (sourcing, contract manufacturing, outsourcing) capabilities to global buyers all under one roof.

Mike Fralix, [TC]²'s President, will moderate a panel discussion during the show, entitled “The Fight to Protect the U.S. Textile & Garment Industry.” Panel participants include Jim Leonard, Chairman, of CITA (Committee for Implementation of Textile Agreement); Bobby Hines, International Trade Specialist, U.S. Commercial Service; and Lawrence Brill, Director, Market Expansion, OTEXA (Office of Textiles & Apparel). Dr. Fralix says, “It is a very interesting and challenging time for the industry relative to global trade and I was honored to be invited to dialogue with such a knowledgeable and influential group.”

[TC]² is an event sponsor. To register to attend, or for more information, visit www.asapshow.com.

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Patternmaking: Past to Present

The creation of a garment is comprised of interdependent yet disparate processes. The appearance and fit of a garment is highly dependent on each process. Patternmaking is one of the earliest steps in the development of a garment. Today, patternmaking tools have been carefully tailored to quickly perform repetitive time-consuming tasks, allowing apparel companies to cater to the fast paced world of fashion. As technology improves and research intensifies, patternmaking software packages continue to become more sophisticated.

In the late medieval period, weaving was a laborious process, carried out entirely by hand on primitive looms. As a result, fabric was regarded as a coveted commodity. For the most part, clothing was constructed with rectangular shaped pieces of uncut fabric. Fabric was left intact to minimize waste. In the fifteenth century the seminal art of patternmaking began. Instead of using uncut fabric, carefully engineered pieces were cut to contour to the body. Forevermore, fabric would take a back seat to fashion (Macdonald and Weibel).

With the onset of the Industrial Revolution, standardized patterns were essential to the success of ready-to-wear clothing. Initial attempts to create standardized patterns resulted in poorly fitting garments with little detail. Men's suits were boxy, plain, ill-fitting sacks. After lengthy experimentation and standardized sizing, patternmaking made a triumphant transformation from customization to standardization (Macdonald and Weibel).

Pattern Design Systems (PDS) have become invaluable tools to the patternmaker, assisting in many of the repetitive tasks associated with patternmaking. PDS systems are capable of storing an incredible amount of data that can be quickly retrieved, tweaked and re-filed. Using a mouse or stylus, patternmakers are able to swiftly add style details and make changes. There are many benefits to PDS - speed, accuracy and ease of data transmission being some of the most obvious. In today's competitive environment, software companies are zeroing in on the growing demands of the apparel manufacturer. To read a review on some of the newest advancements in patternmaking software, look for the article entitled ‘Patternmaking: Past to Present,' to be published soon on techexchange.com.

References

1. Macdonald, Nora and Ruth Weibel. "Principles of Flat Pattern Design.” Prentice Hall, Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey. 1988.

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[TC]² Activity

Research Directions at [TC]²

A major thrust of [TC]²'s research efforts has been to explore ways to get sewn products to the market faster. Whether it is technology development, digital printing on textiles, or supply chain management, there seems to be numerous opportunities to improve the overall process.

In product development, the research has been focused on capturing accurate body measurements and translating them into patterns. This starts with a 3D body scanner developed by [TC]² to create 3D body models. In less than a minute a person can be scanned to create a file of reduced body data (rbd). From the reduced body data, [TC]² researchers have been able to produce three things: an accurate set of extracted body measurements, a two dimensional sloper for automatic pattern generation, and a 3D virtual model for use with commercial 3D visualization software.

One application for measurement extraction is a set of individual body measurements for made-to-measure custom clothing. Another is scanning of fit models or creation of “average bodies” to improve the sizing specifications for mass produced apparel. Using the body scanning technology with industry sponsorship, [TC]² captured over 10,000 sets of body measurements from volunteers in the SizeUSA National Survey. The industry now has a rich data base for analysis of sizing for their target customers.

The automatic creation of a pattern from an individual for custom garments or from an average body has been prototyped for specific styles in the [TC]² research. This is ongoing research that is expected to result in a robust product development tool for the industry.

The production of virtual models will facilitate the use of commercial software with meaningful body types and shapes.

Digital textile printing has been an ongoing demonstration at [TC]² with ideas shared on the appropriate use of the technology from a business standpoint (making a profit) and the challenges of color management. A result of the demonstration was to produce digitally printed products for customers in the Inkdrop Boutique (see www.inkdropboutique.com). A niche business using digital textile printing has been identified for producing products in small quantities for Museum stores and artists. Scarves, purses, and bags have been created from these digital images.

In the supply chain management area, we continue to look for opportunities to improve supply chain efficiencies by analyzing processes through software simulation. Using software and hardware contributed by [TC]² Associate Members, we look for technology linkages and improvements through a demonstration of the “Digital Supply Chain.”

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Member Profile - Gütermann

Products for Your Ideas

Located in the heart of Germany 's Black Forest, Gütermann has been producing a quality sewing thread for over 130 years. In a town called Gutach, 1,300 employees truly live up to the reputation for quality and true innovation in the industry. Not only is Gütermann producing a superior product, its customer service is unmatched in the industry.

Reaching customers in over 80 countries, Gütermann will be the first to say that its partnerships in the industry keep the company where it is – in front. The cooperation found is invaluable and working relationships established throughout the world provide essential means in leading the market in thread production and quality control. The traditional Gütermann style is never compromised – quality stands alone.

Satisfied customers and partners give Gütermann the strength for continued growth and success. A membership in [TC]², for example, “promotes our philosophy of not only current quality matters but innovation in the future needs of the industry,” adds Kathy Kierce, National Sales Manager, Gütermann, United States. Innovation in new and unique products and services geared to market needs is what Gütermann has responded with in changing times: “A recipe for success.”

Whether it's women's fine clothing, men's suits, or the latest strappy sandal – Gütermann supplies the right thread for every desired product. Durability and a great look is a Gütermann standard. “Each thread is an expert in its own field, and a guarantee for problem-free production.”

Even airbags receive a quality threaded approach. Seatbelts and seats, car interiors, and even insulation – all can have their own Gütermann technical sewing solution. Textile applications in the automobile and aircraft industries once again push innovation within Gütermann.

Gütermann stands by the quality products it helps make and gives a promise of a superior thread to do it with. New Multicolor threads and the “The Seam” No 102 – a seam improvement technique for shoes – are just some of these latest successes.

For more information, please visit www.gutermann.com.

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Important Dates

August

September

For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com

Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Intentia, Lectra and Methods Workshop.

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A Look Ahead

The ASAP Global Sourcing Show
El Foro
Material World

View previous editions of this newsletter

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