[TC]² Bi-Weekly Technology Communicator |
July 13, 2005 |
The COTTON USA Sourcing Fair
The 2005 COTTON USA Sourcing Fair was held on June 21-23 at the Los Suenos Marriott in Costa Rica. Attendees consisted of apparel manufacturers from the CBI and Andean regions; U.S. retailers and U.S. textile manufacturers. Vaughn Jordan of The Cotton Council served as the host for the two-day event. Morning presentations showcased strategies designed to propel the apparel manufacturers into high gear. The pervasive topic was how to provide top notch service to brands and retailers. In the afternoon, attendees were invited to prescheduled vendor meetings intended to encourage fruitful partnerships.
The fair began with a presentation by Jonathan Fee of Alston & Bird LLP. Fee recapped trade issues and touched on the current state of CAFTA. Mary O'Rourke of Jassin-O'Rourke Group LLP followed Fee's presentation with an insightful look into how the Chinese apparel manufacturer works.
Mike Fralix, of [TC]², moderated a panel discussion entitled ‘Future of the Andean-CBI Apparel Manufacturer.' The panel consisted of vertical apparel manufacturers from the CBI and Andean regions. Discussion topics ranged from the challenges facing the apparel manufacturers in these regions to tapping into some of the unique advantages they have over other countries, such as their close proximity to U.S. retailers.
Will Duncan, from [TC]², gave a presentation entitled ‘The Real Meaning of Speed – The Six Week Cycle.' Sobering statistics made clear the withering effects China has had on apparel manufacturers. In order to compete with this formidable competitor, Duncan believes that superior service is the best ammunition for apparel manufacturers in today's market. “The key to service is time.” Retooling age-old strategies including communication, planning and partnering along with continued education and training has yielded some significant results in shorter cycle times. Duncan also detailed three lean sewing production systems – Unit Production System, Kanban and Stand-up Hand-Off modules. These systems can reduce the occurrence of errors, overall manufacturing time and work-in-process.
Duncan gave a second presentation entitled ‘Costing for Cash Flow – Profit Potential versus Payment Terms.' Duncan pointed out that retailers are all searching for the same thing - a quality product, delivered on time at a competitive price. To competitively price a product, you first have to cost it. In today's ever-changing environment, cost has taken on new components. In addition to the traditional elements of costing - labor, overhead and materials - companies need to look at the overall program cost. Cash flow, profit potential and payment terms need to be added to the mix.
The opening of the second day was led by Jonathan Fee who moderated a panel on transportation and logistics, which provided valuable insight into how to make improvements in the region. The last presentation of the second day was given by Jaime Flores, Latin Director, Cotton Incorporated. His presentation was entitled. ‘The U.S. Retail Situation – Cotton's Perspective.' A question and answer session followed.
For more information on the International Cotton Council, visit www.cottonusa.org .
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SPESA Annual Meeting - June 12-14
Palm Coast, FL was the site of SPESA's 2005 annual meeting, with over 60 members in attendance. During the meeting, Mike Fralix of [TC]² was elected to SPESA's Board of Directors. Other Board members are: Frank Henderson of Henderson Sewing Machine Company; Mike Land, Dunlap Sunbrand International; Lonny Schwartz, Superior Sewing Machine; Rolando Bohlemann, Schmetz Needle Corp.; Martin Gopman, Unicraft Corp.; Bob Rivera, Gerber Technology; Eric Schlossman, Mico Sewing Supplies; Alejandro Faes, Lectra; Farid Handal, Agencia J.E. Handal S.A. de C.V.; Ron Smith, National Machine Products; and Honorary Board Members Stephen Lovass, Gerber Scientific; Louis Melocchi, Rimoldi America; and John Stern, Methods Workshop.
The theme of the meeting was “ China will grow, but so can you…Winning in a Quota-Free World.” Presenters included David Baron of Liz Claiborne, discussing global sourcing strategies; David Braun of Virtual Strategies, presenting methods to grow mid-market companies; Paul Herring, Jr. of Nike, focusing on PLM strategies and how Nike is using PLM in its business; Mary O'Rourke of Jassin-O'Rourke Group, offering advice and guidance on conducting business globally; Jaynie Smith of ICS Marketing showcasing strategic marketing concepts, Melissa Bastos of Cotton Incorporated talking about the U.S. Retail Apparel Market and what is happening with products once they reach store shelves; and Peter Tredwin of Business Affair, offering insights on achieving business success in outsourcing. The conference highlight was an audio presentation by James Leonard, Deputy Assistant Secretary of Commerce, with informative and timely updates on current legislative issues.
For more information on the SPESA organization, go to www.spesa.org.
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The SizeUSA User's Group Meeting
The SizeUSA User's Group meeting, held on June 29th, was attended by a blend of both industry professionals and academics. Over 55 people came together to share the ways they've used the arsenal of data collected in the SizeUSA survey. Using [TC]² 's body scanner, which is capable of collecting 3D measurements, combined with measurement extraction software, over 200 crucial body measurements of each subject were swiftly and accurately collected. To add additional meaning to the data, subjects were grouped by gender, age and ethnicity. A questionnaire given to the scanned subjects revealed valuable information, such as zip code, annual household income, marital status, lifestyle, education, employment status, and apparel shopping preferences.
The day before the official User's Group meeting, a series of educational presentations were given by Tim Curran and Kim Munro
of [TC]². Curran demonstrated how the data can be manipulated in both Excel and Access to determine the measurements of a target customer. Munro showed that the information can be further distilled to target specific measurements for specific products, such as hip measurements for jeans. David Bruner, also of [TC]², demonstrated how the data can be customized. Bruner explained that at times “atypical measurements” need to be extracted. For example, the ability to extract extra surface areas in addition to linear measurements was demonstrated.
The official SizeUSA User's Group meeting was kicked-off on Wednesday with a welcoming introduction and agenda overview by Jim Lovejoy, Director, Industry Programs at [TC]².
Brad Beal, Senior Vice President of Manufacturing and Operations at Jockey International gave an energetic presentation. 128 years ago Jockey specialized in ‘door to door' sales of socks. Jockey has evolved into an international company specializing in undergarments. Beal stressed the importance of comfort and fit in undergarments. The SizeUSA data has enabled Jockey to develop underwear that is so comfortable you “forget you have on underwear.”
Five years ago Jockey entered the bra market. Beal stressed the challenges associated with producing a comfortable bra. The #1 complaint from customers is “the bra doesn't fit”- and why? For one - “women's bodies are asymmetrical.” To enhance the design, fit and comfort of their bras, Jockey enlisted the help of SizeUSA.
Beal contends that the scanned data is more precise and accurate than manual measurements or fit models. The folks at Jockey refer to this level of precision as “exactitude.” The SizeUSA survey enabled Jockey to extract data to determine “what fits and what doesn't.” With the help of SizeUSA, in February of 2005 Jockey re-launched a re-designed line of bras focused on improved size, shape and proportions. Although Beal admits, “there is no perfect fit,” he believes they have increased their customer base to include 85-92% of their target market. Jockey will continue to tap into the valuable data supplied by SizeUSA and apply it to future product developments.
Beal closed his presentation with a forceful message: SizeUSA enabled Jockey to “make true changes…price is the driver of apparel but it shouldn't be…comfort should be and SizeUSA made it possible.”
Andy Van of JCPenney opened his presentation where Beal left off – “Don't be the cheapest guy in the market.” The main impetus for JCPenney's interest in SizeUSA was threefold: to attain the perfect ‘JCPenney' size 8; improve grade rules; and perfect their body forms. Van emphasized that the old industry adage ‘if it measures right it must fit right' is…wrong! Van went on to elaborate on the conundrums of fit, “People wear clothes in unusual ways… pants below the waist…where is the waist?”
Van's colleague, Mike Hannaford, elaborated on how JCPenney has used SizeUSA data to understand the role that proportion and shape play in sizing and grading. JCPenney has now adjusted their standard size 8 and plan to change their traditional grading.
Tim Curran and Kim Munro gave a demonstration on how to methodically weed through and interpret the plethora of data generated by the SizeUSA survey in order to zero in on the target customer. Munro emphasized the importance of grading not only to body measurements, but grading to product type as well. Munro pointed out that traditional grading has been altered linearly because it is fast and easy. SizeUSA data has confirmed what patternmakers have long suspected – linear grading is not always the best way.
To read entire article, click here.
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Member Profile - SPESA
Dedication to the Global Sewn Products Industry at its Best!
Formed in 1990 by industry leaders, SPESA (the Sewn Products Equipment & Suppliers of the Americas) is the largest trade association in the Americas solely devoted to the advancement of suppliers of sewn products machinery, ancillary equipment, parts, services, and technology for the global sewn products industry.
Based in Raleigh, North Carolina USA, SPESA is a non-profit trade association dedicated to promoting and protecting the interests and image of the suppliers to the sewn products industry. SPESA's officers and Board of Directors are responsible for policy direction with day-to-day administration by the Executive Vice President, Benton Gardner.
Active member participation is important to guarantee the effectiveness of the Association in representing the interests of all members and the sewn products industry. Participation provides members with a broader perspective of both the industry and the Association.
SPESA believes in forging strategic alliances. An example is the close relationship between SPESA and [TC]². According to Dave Gardner, SPESA's Director of International Affairs, working closely with [TC]² throughout the sewn products industry has allowed both organizations to greatly increase their global visibility and market penetration while better serving their respective memberships.
Behind The Seams, one of the industry's leading sources for news and information, is produced by SPESA's staff on a bi-weekly basis. It is e-mailed to approximately 30,000 subscribers worldwide. Upcoming events are highlighted, and news about people and associations within the industry are showcased. This free news service proves to be self-perpetuating and is growing continually. To subscribe, visit the web site at www.behind-the-seams.com.
SPESA is currently involved with two highly anticipated Central American events in San Pedro Sula, Honduras: El Foro and SPESA Expo & AHM Sourcing – Central America. El Foro, a conference highlighting executive insights and competitive strategies for Central America, will be held September 19-20, 2005. SPESA Expo & AHM Sourcing – Central America, an exhibition featuring equipment and technology suppliers and sourcing opportunities, will be held September 21-23, 2005. Both of these events are supportive of SPESA's goal of providing regional apparel manufacturers with the best and latest information and technology to help them compete in today's highly competitive climate.
SPESA is also the organizer of SPESA Expo 2007, a comprehensive triennial exhibition for the Western Hemisphere. SPESA Expo 2007 will be held May 8-10, 2007 in Miami Beach, Florida. For more information about SPESA and its upcoming events, visit www.spesa.org.
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Important Dates
July
20 |
Geac presents PLM Seminar at [TC]². For more details or to register for the event, visit www.runtime.geac.com . |
August
9-11 |
Pattern Development Seminar at [TC]². For more information, click here. |
26 |
Developing Digitally Printed Products Seminar at [TC]². For more information, click here. |
28-31 |
ASAP Global Sourcing Show. Sands Expo, Venetian Hotel, Las Vegas, NV. Mike Fralix, [TC]²’s President, will moderate a panel discussion of U.S. government leaders on Protection Efforts for the U.S. Textile and Garment Industry. To register to attend, or for more information, visit www.asapshow.com. |
September
13 |
Ergonomics Overview - The Law, The Intent, and The Handbook Seminar at [TC]². For more information, click here. |
19-20 |
El Foro - Executive Insights & Competitive Strategies (The Central American Forum to Advance Textiles & Apparel), co-produced by The Honduran Manufacturers Association, SPESA, and [TC]²
Club Arabe, San Pedro Sula, Honduras.
For more information, contact promocion@ahm-honduras.com |
19-22 |
Apparel China Symposium & Sourcing Fair
Shanghai New International Expo Centre. For more information, visit www.apparelmag.com |
20-22 |
Grading for Fit Seminar at [TC]². For more information, click here. |
21-23 |
SPESA Expo – AHM Sourcing, Central America Expo Center, San Pedro Sula, Honduras
For more information, visit www.spesa.org |
26-30 |
Introduction to Apparel Manufacturing Seminar at [TC]². For more information, click here. |
28-30 |
Material World Fabric and Sourcing Show
Jacob Javits Convention Center, New York City. For more details, visit www.material-world.com |
For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com
Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Intentia, Lectra and Methods Workshop.
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A Look Ahead

The ASAP Global Sourcing Show
El Foro
Material World
View previous editions of this newsletter
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