Index [TC]² Seminar Offerings Second Annual SizeUSA Users Group Meeting [TC]² Activity - Student Intern Program Review Member Profile - Shapely Shadow, Inc. Important Dates A Look Ahead

[TC]² Seminar Offerings

Fast Fashion Seminar - August 29-30, 2006 (Tuition $100)
Learn what processes and company culture enables the fast fashion cycle from design to point of sale in 4- 6 weeks. Fast Fashion examples of successful companies like Zara in Spain and New Look in the UK are presented by a leading UK retail consultant. Presented by [TC]² and Industry Forum at the MAGIC Show in Las Vegas in 2 two hour parts.

Introducing 3-Day Seminars: Pattern Development and Grading For Fit

[TC]² announces upcoming Pattern Development and Grading for Fit 3-day seminars.

Pattern Development – October 18-20, 2006 (Tuition: $795; $495 for [TC]² Members)
A prerequisite for Grading for Fit, Pattern Development is a comprehensive course guiding each participant through the process of developing the best patterns for the garment industry.

Learn introductory principles of fit, pattern development, and marker making. Hands-on activities include flat pattern manipulations, fabric critique, and garment investigation.

This program is designed for beginning Patternmakers, Specifications and Costing Engineers, Spreaders and Cutters, Sewing Supervisors, and Merchandisers.

Grading for Fit – November 15-17, 2006 (Tuition: $795; $495 for [TC]² Members)
Do you want to increase your skills in patternmaking and fitting?  Grading for Fit logically follows Pattern Development, a prerequisite for this course in most cases.  Attendees should understand patternmaking, general grading principles and basic CAD functions. This program is designed for Patternmakers, Marker Makers, Specification and Costing Engineers, and Graders.  (Please use this form for prerequisite questions).

Proper grading ensures good fit of a manufactured garment.  Learn basic principles of fit and grading.  Hands-on projects include deriving grade rules and manual grading of three basic garment types.

Registration:  To register for either or both of these courses, please contact Elizabeth Salisbury, Program Coordinator at (919) 653-3507 or use this form.  

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The Second Annual SizeUSA Users Group Meeting

The second annual SizeUSA Users Group meeting was held at [TC]² on June 28th in Cary, NC. Three years after the SizeUSA survey was conducted, both industry professionals and academics are still tapping into unique ways to utilize the data. 

Victoria’s Secret Bust Shape Analysis by Virginia Meckley of Victoria’s Secret
After welcoming remarks by Jim Lovejoy, of [TC]², Virginia Meckley, of Victoria’s Secret, gave a presentation entitled Victoria’s Secret Bust Shape Analysis. To maintain their “best at bras” position in the market place, [TC]² recently assisted Victoria's Secret in an extensive project. To zero in on their target customer, 1400 women across the U.S. were scanned. 4000 scans representing the Victoria’s Secret customer were provided by SizeUSA. After careful analysis of the scans, 6 technical designers at Victoria's Secret came to a surprising conclusion: regardless of a woman’s size, geographic location, age or ethnicity—breasts come in 4 distinctive shapes.

Until the advent of body scanning, Meckley says they were unable to look at shape…they went on intuition. Now that it’s over Meckley says “it is all very exciting to have finally identified shape.” The technical designers know that the 4 different shapes will not fit the same bra, regardless of size. So what does this mean? You can rest assured—Victoria’s Secret will be retaining their position of “best at bras.”

New Hosiery Size Standards Analysis byJodi Lynch of the Hosiery Technology Center
After acknowledging that a consistent and repeatable test method for sizing sheer hosiery was needed, 8-10 sheer manufacturing companies formed the Sheer Hosiery Sizing Testing Consortium and called on the Catawba Valley Community College's Hosiery Technology Center for help. Jodi Lynch, testing lab manager for the center, laid out the challenges and options in a presentation entitled New Hosiery Size Standards Analysis.

Recognizing the need for current information regarding size, the consortium looked to the SizeUSA data for assistance. The data revealed three valuable pieces of information about size: U.S. consumers are heavier than they use to be; ethnicity plays a role; and age is a factor.

Given the new data generated by the SizeUSA survey, the sheer hosiery industry hopes to develop a cost effective and repeatable method for sizing.

Female Lower Body Shapes for the Bottoms Market by Kim Munro of [TC]²
Most technical designers are well aware of the many variables affecting the fit of a woman’s pant. Kim Munro, of [TC]², explored the topic in a presentation entitled Female Lower Body Shapes for the Bottoms Market.

Munro emphasized the opportunities in the bottoms wear market by pointing out that an estimated 450 million pairs of jeans are purchased every year, jeans are the most widely produced piece of apparel in the U.S., and the popularity is not expected to taper off.  Munro advised attendees to keep a close eye on two target markets—women 35 years old and older and the multicultural woman.

From analyzing the SizeUSA data, Munro has keyed out four predominant shapes—the triangle, inverted triangle, low square and upper square. Munro found that each of the four shapes occurs in women of all sizes and ethnicities, however, some of the shapes are predominant in certain age groups and ethnicities.

The Triangle Shape in Three Women of Different Size
Courtesy of [TC]²

The Inverted Triangle Shape in Three Women of Different Size
Courtesy of [TC]²

The Lower Square Shape in Two Women of Different Size
Courtesy of [TC]²

The Upper Square Shape in Two Women of Different Size
Courtesy of [TC]²

Munro also pointed out that with some retailers discontinuing or drastically scaling back their petite lines, opportunities may arise; however, the petite market is loaded with size and shape issues. The SizeUSA data revealed that 80% of all women are 5’6” or shorter and that there is a huge weight range within this population. 24% of women between 5’4” and 5’6’’ tall range from 98 – 371 lbs; 28 % of women between 5’2’’and 5’4” range in weight from 92 – 395 lbs; and 28% of women that are 5’2” or shorter are between 75 – 322 lbs.

Size Across Borders by Beth Newcomb of [TC]²
With the Hispanic population growing exponentially and their expendable income increasing as well, it’s only prudent to take a closer look at this market segment. Beth Newcomb, of [TC]², has been comparing and contrasting scanned data collected from a survey conducted at the University of Guadalajara, Mexico with the SizeUSA data. Newcomb had three main focuses:

1. Compare body size and shape of females in Mexico.

2. Compare body shape and size of the U.S. and Mexican population.

3. Compare body shape and size of the Mexican population to the U.S. Mexican population.

In a presentation entitled Size Across Borders, Newcomb detailed the results of her research. She looked at various measurements including bust, waist, hip and calf as well as height and posture.

An Entrepreneur’s Insight
Two entrepreneurs shared the trials and tribulations they’ve encountered while pursuing their unique business aspirations. Both Lori Coulter of Lori Coulter™ TrueMeasure and Kathryn Chase of Scans for Sewing are using a [TC]² NX-12 scanner to venture out into new territory.

Lori Coulter of Lori Coulter™ TrueMeasure
Fueled by knowing that most women find shopping for a swimsuit to be “one of the most humiliating, uncomfortable, unsanitary, time consuming, confusing and generally abhorrent activities ever invented,” Lori Coulter founded Lori Coulter™ TrueMeasure, a mass customized luxury apparel company with a focus on swimwear.

After a customer is scanned, suit styles are suggested based on their shape analysis. The customer then customizes their suit by choosing from a variety of design options including lining, fabric, color combinations, trims and embellishments.

Coulter’s goal is to make the once horrific experience pleasant and exciting while providing a unique, well-fitting and comfortable swimsuit.

Kathryn Chase of Scans for Sewing
Kathryn Chase, of Scans for Sewing, gave a humorous take on the exciting yet challenging life of an entrepreneur. Chase offers a unique product to the home sewer. For $29.00, customers are scanned and provided with their personal measurements. Chase also offers customized slopers. Using [TC]²’s 3D to 2D pattern making software, Chase generates slopers from the customer’s scanned measurements.

Sloper Generated from [TC]²’s 3D to 2D Pattern Making Software
Courtesy of Kathryn Chase

New Scanner Features by David Bruner [TC]²
David Bruner, of [TC]², updated the audience on some of the latest scanner developments, including new bust measurement features designed to address swimwear, intimate apparel and medical issues; new position measurement capabilities for the waist; the ability to collect measurements from a seated pose; and the introduction of a 4 foot by 4 foot scanner, which will be available in the First Quarter of 2007.

Proposed Teen SizeUSA Survey by Jim Lovejoy
Before the SizeUSA Users Group meeting closed, Jim Lovejoy made a proposal—a Teen SizeUSA survey. Lovejoy pointed out that teenagers spend a large amount of money on apparel, however, teen anthropometric data is scarce. To better serve the teen population Lovejoy proposed conducting a national size survey aimed at 13-17 year olds. The challenges of scanning kids were discussed. Parental permission, purchase of appropriate scan wear, the logistics of completing a pre-questionnaire, incentive for participation and compensation were all issues raised during the discussion.

For more information on any of these presentations, please contact us.

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[TC]² Activity

Student Intern Program Review

As we’re starting to finish up our last few weeks at [TC]², it’s becoming more interesting and exciting. For the past three weeks we’ve focused on using manufacturing techniques for costing methods, toured VF Jeanswear, attended the SizeUSA User’s Group meeting, utilized 3D to 2D software to convert 3D images from the NX-12  3D body scanner to slopers and finished up the week with Mike Fralix.  
           
We traveled to Greensboro, NC to visit VF Jeanswear where Jay Craft, VP of Product Development, was our tour guide.  The first place we visited was the distribution center where we learned the entire process starting from reserve storage to finished product shipping. One of the things that stood out to us all was how they have three picking levels. The first and second  picking levels are manual using ring scanners, where there is high volume and low SKU’s. They use ring scanners that are located on their arms which record data more precisely and  move products faster because the device is at their finger tips. The third level deals with packaging for shipment . Hangers, stickers, ticket prices and all of these small detailed attachments  takes about fifty to sixty people to operate. This level is one of the slowest because one to six cartons are picked at a time and the work is very tedious depending on the specifications of the retailer.

Later that evening, we visited Sabrina Hernandez, the Merchandising Manager over “Hero Boys”, where they were still in the finishing stages of Spring 2006. We found that very interesting considering seasons have to be finished at least a year ahead of time. She was very helpful in answering questions and showing us the merchandising aspect of the company.

Lori Coulter discusses her custom swimwear line

We had the opportunity of sitting in on a SizeUSA User’s Group meeting later that week, which we all found very informative and inspirational. It taught us how important it is to consider your consumer’s thoughts and opinions to ensure that your company is always innovative and  a part of what’s current. David Bruner started off the Users Group Meeting with the Body Measurement System Software Training and to share the status of the data implemented  from SizeUSA.  It was very motivational to hear how everyone from entrepreneurs to already established businesses utilize the Body Scanner.

In our fifth week as interns, we participated in a three day Manufacturing Techniques seminar conducted by Gloria Carter. By taking an in-depth look at the importance of time and motion analysis and motion standards, we learned that there is much more to costing a product than just adding the cost of fabric, labor and overhead.  We learned there is a great deal of work involved in making sure that your manufacturing facility is ergonomically constructed, not only for the physical sake of the operators, but for the monetary well-being of the company. This seminar was one of the most challenging yet for the interns due to its heavy focus of the engineering and labor side of the manufacturing process, yet very important in understanding how companies streamline production and workers to produce goods that have been constructed in the most efficient way possible.

David Bruner began our sixth week by demonstrating and then teaching us how to use the NX-12 measurement extraction software in conjunction with our personal body scan measurements. After loading our measurements into the program, we were able to create extraction files of certain measurements based on the garment type we might chose to create. We then learned how to use the program to change the placement of some measurements based on the desired fit of the end garment. That afternoon, Elizabeth White and Kim Munro taught us how to use these gathered measurements to create bodice tops, skirts and pants patterns, all on the computer. We were amazed to see how far technology has progressed. Before, all patterns had to be drawn by hand.  This new program allows the user to create and manipulate patterns without ever having to create a flat pattern. This seminar really opened our eyes as to how many different applications this technology will apply to within the apparel industry, as well as in other industries.

These weeks were interestingly informative, especially ending it with a mind opening session with Mike Fralix, [TC]²’s President, encouraging us all to think “Outside the Triangle” instead of thinking outside of the box. Ultimately this session gave us a different perspective on how to approach change and make problems into opportunities. We all left knowing that if you aren’t open to change then change will ultimately defeat you.       

Comments by: Bronica Richardson, Lindenwood University; Zalina Withem, Eastern Michigan University; and Ashley Jackson, North Carolina State University.

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Member Profile - Shapely Shadow, Inc.

In 1995, Ilona Foyer became involved in the industry of 3D body scanning and human measurement.  She worked with 3D data file sets for the movie and gaming industry where she realized its value to the fashion industry.  In 1997, Ms. Foyer launched Shapely Shadow, pioneering the commercial utilization of 3D data to produce reliable, symmetrical forms for the clothing industry.  The evolution of 3D body scanned data to improve quality and fit throughout the apparel supply chain has been a global challenge.  

The recent acceptance of cultural differences between body shapes and measurements has expanded the market to include the utilization of sizing surveys such as SizeUSA, Size Greece, SizeUK, and Size China to produce forms for specific markets and, as a result, target ethnic groups and cultures for fit instead of utilizing a “standard” dress form/mannequin to develop garments for every market of the world.

Shapely Shadow, Inc. provides solutions for the apparel industry to improve Fit throughout the world.  As a pioneer of the commercial utilization of 3D data, Shapely Shadow produces three types of forms: traditional linen forms for global quality control of outerwear; RealForms™, which are pin-able and washable with soap and water; and  RealFlesh™ forms, the softest of the form products, designed to show pressure (bra underwire) for the lingerie and swimsuit industry.  

Most recently, Shapely Shadow launched FastFit™, a visual communication software that allows users to capture movement and view garments 360 degrees.  FastFit provides the sewn products industry with the tools to reduce fittings, communicate corrections and globally inspect garments prior to shipment. 

Shapely Shadow’s manufacturing facility is located in Los Angeles, California. Company office locations include Los Angeles and New York with agent offices in Montreal, London and Hong Kong.  Shapely Shadow products are also on display in [TC]²’s Cary, NC Demonstration Center.

For more company information, visit www.shapelyshadow.com.

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Important Dates

July

August

September

For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com

Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Intentia, Lectra and Methods Workshop.

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A Look Ahead in the Newsletter


MAGIC Sourcing Show Review
Material World
SEAMS Fall Meeting

View previous editions of this newsletter

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