[TC]² Bi-Weekly Technology Communicator |
June 15, 2005 |
Registration is still open for the SizeUSA User's Group Meeting scheduled for June 29, 2005.
Jockey International Presents
 Brad Beal of Jockey International will present at the June 29th SizeUSA User's Group meeting. Jockey was a major sponsor of [TC]²'s National Sizing Study, completed in September of 2003. The study scanned over 10,000 people across the U.S. using [TC]²'s 3D body measurement technology. As a sponsor, Jockey received a full report and data analysis to apply to their apparel products. This information was instrumental in a re-launch of Jockey's bra line with re-designed and re-engineered products that more accurately reflect female consumer's shapes based on the findings from the SizeUSA data. These patent-pending designs include technical enhancements and a unique combination of design and engineering elements to create a true innovation in the bra industry.
Other featured speakers include Andy Van and Mike Hannaford of JCPenney Co., Andrew Crawford of Bodymetrics, Robert Holloway of Archetype-Solutions, and a panel of academic researchers from four sponsoring universities.
To view the agenda, click http://www.tc2.com/resources/sizeusaagenda.pdf.
Registration fee for SizeUSA license holders is $195, which includes a ½ day training session on Tuesday, June 28th. Non-license holders may attend the June 29th meeting for $495, which can be applied toward the purchase of licensed SizeUSA data. Don't miss this opportunity to learn more about SizeUSA and how it can be a tool for increased customer sales and satisfaction. For more details, visit http://www.tc2.com/what/sizeusa/index.html .
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The InkDrop Boutique Workshop
The InkDrop Boutique is a unique division of [TC]² specializing in digitally printed accessories such as scarves, totes and cushions. In addition to their in-house line, The InkDrop Boutique helps artists and small businesses parlay their creative ideas into distinctive products. To showcase the opportunities the world of digital printing can offer, The InkDrop Boutique has scheduled a workshop. In this comprehensive workshop you will learn how to turn a variety of different images into unique printed products. The workshop will be offered on August 26, 2005 and October 17, 2005. For more information about the workshop and other seminars scheduled for the remainder of 2005, go to http://www.tc2.com/what/seminars.html .
Digitally Printed Products by The InkDrop Boutique
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Botanical Tote |
100% Silk Charmeuse Scarf |
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JIAM 2005
JIAM (Japanese International Apparel Machinery Trade Show) held its eighth exhibition in Osaka Japan on May 18-21. JIAM is one of the world's major triennial sewn products industry trade events. The theme for this year's exhibition was “Total Fashion Technology”. This week's [TC]² Newsletter features observations by Mike Fralix and Jud Early on the latest technological advances at the JIAM 2005.
Shima Seiki Digital Printer
Shima Seiki showcased a versatile flat bed digital printer with a cutting area of 1.6 x 2.2 meters. Ink jet heads can be raised or lowered to print a variety of fabric thicknesses. These features make it possible to print tee shirts as well as fabric.
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[TC]² Staff Photo |
Minimizing Mistakes in the Production of an Engineered Garment
Shima Seiki introduced a new technology intended to accurately cut the components of an engineered garment. Engineered garments are produced by printing the individual pattern pieces onto a piece of fabric. The fabric is then steamed, or heat set, to fix the dyes. During the steaming or heat setting process, the fabric can shrink and skew, distorting the initial shape and location of the printed pattern pieces. To minimize mistakes in the cutting process, registration marks are printed on the fabric at the same time the pattern pieces are printed. At the cutter, the locations of the registration marks on the steamed fabric are scanned by a camera mounted on the cutter head and the pattern is adjusted in accordance with the original pattern. The cutter software automatically readjusts to accommodate for any distortion the fabric might have undergone during steaming, resulting in precise cutting. This “closes the gap” that has existed in how fabrics that suffer distortion after printing can be accurately cut.
“Dry Head” Sewing Machines
The dry head concept was introduced several years ago as a way to reduce damage to sewn products from oil spotting. JIAM 2005 had a number of dry head machines, ranging from lock stitch, chain stitch, and overlock. A “dry head” refers to a sewing machine that uses very small amounts of lubricating oil during the sewing process. Minute quantities of oil are delivered to the hook and needle bar, to significantly reduce the chances of oil spotting. Although this isn't a cutting edge technology, machine designs and special coatings for sliding and rotating parts are constantly being improved by decreasing the amount of oil being delivered to the machine parts while simultaneously increasing the machine speed. Dry head machines are now capable of running over 5000 rpm.
Touch Screen Technology
We typically associate touch screen technology with the food and beverage industry; however, this technology is now being offered by several machine manufacturers as an operator interface for machines. The technology is simple and straightforward. The operator uses a small touch sensitive computer screen to program in information such as stitch pattern and length, or to set other parameters. This technology could be expanded to include collection of time and attendance as well as production and payroll data and could disseminate crucial information such as specifications and measurement data in the manufacturing plant.
4 Row Lockstitch Seam Capabilities
Consew® showcased a sewing machine capable of simultaneously sewing four rows of lockstitches. The four juxtaposed stitch configuration provides superior reinforcement needed in various applications, such as parachutes and tents. An older design, the machine had not been manufactured in a number of years. Recent demand required that Consew retool and produce these very unique machines. Four horizontal hooks interact with four needles spaced in a square pattern, producing four independent rows of lockstitch seam.
Specialized Sewing Machines
 Kwangjin Sewing Machine Co. featured a variety of specialized machines capable of sewing briefcases, handbags and shoes. A pivotal arm holds the loop-taking feeding mechanism. The operator guides the object into the sewing zone, controlling the position of the swing arm which supports the loop-taking mechanism by foot pedal. The utility of such an arrangement allows the sewing of difficult, box-shaped structures without the obstacle that would normally be present in a machine with a fixed or post bed.
[TC]² Staff Photo
Pocket Setter
Pocket setters are machines specifically designed to sew pockets onto garments. Juki showed a pocket setter with a new bobbin changer. The process of sewing the pocket onto the garment is continuous and automated. Therefore, if the bobbin runs out of thread during the process, the pocket must be removed and re-sewn after filling and placing the bobbin. To eliminate this from happening, bobbins are pre-wound with a predetermined amount of thread needed for a given number of pockets. Any thread remaining after sewing the last pocket before bobbin change will be removed and disposed by the bobbin changer mechanism. This occurs after the replacement bobbin has been installed, allowing the sew cycle to begin. Software for Automatic Marker Making
NESTER™ showcased sophisticated software specifically designed for improved efficiency in marker making. Markers are automatically compacted to minimize fabric waste. Markers that specifically address the challenges associated with plaid, stripe and tubular knit fabrics are now resident in Nester software.
Laser Engraving on Fabric
The laser engraving process produces a pattern that is reminiscent of a resist or discharge process, without the complications associated with maintaining specific temperatures and times and finicky dye formulas. A light pattern on a darker ground is successfully achieved by using a laser that ablates the dyes in the fibers of the fabric, producing a design. Laser etching technology can be used to impart a pattern onto areas that would be challenging to accomplish using other methods. Patterns can be successfully manipulated around seams and snaps. This technology, although not unique, is about the size of an executive desk.
Shima Seiki Specialized Knit Machines
 “Shima Seiki” has almost become synonymous with “WHOLEGARMENT® knits” - garments with no seams. However, Shima Seiki also manufacturers a variety of specialized knitting equipment designed to produce seamless gloves, socks, hats and other fashion accessories. New technology for the digital control of yarn feeds provides just the right amount of yarn without stretching, and is adjustable for differing conditions. Shima's line of knitting, printing and cutting machines, along with supporting software, is quite impressive.
Image Courtesy of Shima Seiki
Apparel Jungle
The Apparel Jungle was an interactive area where attendees could view processes spanning the entire supply chain. A short cycle supply demonstration chain featuring the manufacture of bathing suits preceded a clever skit, devised to give attendees a glimpse into a futuristic retail scenario. The skit combined real actors and large screen displays. The scenario featured an actor posing as a customer who had previously been body scanned. Equipped with an RFID (Radio Frequency Identification) enabled cell phone, the customer peruses the store. She uses her cell phone to obtain style and color information from the RFID tag on the garment. The information is then used to generate an image of a draped model, with her dimensions on her cell phone screen. Still undecided, she sends the image to her boyfriend who makes a quick positive response. Without shedding a stitch, the customer gathers her merchandise and heads to the checkout, where she discovers that her boyfriend has already paid electronically.
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Body Scanning in Guadalajara, Mexico
Mexico is the southern neighbor of the USA. These two countries share the longest borderline in the world, with one side Anglo Saxon and the other Latin. Mexico is full of opposing identities: deserts and snow-capped mountains, teeming industrialized cities and time-warped colonial towns, ancient ruins and 21st century shopping malls, globalization and isolation of a portion of the population. Nevertheless, Mexico captivates locals and foreigners alike. The largest community of U.S. retired people (outside the U.S.) is located around Lake Chapala, near Guadalajara.
The first people to inhabit what is now known as Mexico go back to about 1200 BC with the Olmecs rising to be the first developed civilization. A succession of such native civilizations gave way to the Aztecs. This tribe was a successor to a string of empires, settling in at Tenochtitlan (what is now Mexico City, then a lake area) in the 14th century. The Mayas established themselves throughout southern Mexico and most of
Central America around 250 AD. These were the two most recognized Indian cultures of pre-hispanic Mexico.
With a population of about 105 million people, unevenly spread throughout 1.95 million square kilometers, Mexico is a federal republic with a democratically elected President. Although its GDP per capita $6,260 USD is a far cry from what is normal in a First World country, it leads the pack in Latin America. Major industries include food and beverages, chemicals, steel, petroleum, mining, automobiles, tourism and textiles & clothing.
Before 2005, Mexico was the largest exporter of clothing to the U.S. The combination of the December 1994 peso devaluation and the passage of NAFTA combined in making this country a powerhouse in terms of exporting apparel. Unfortunately, most of this production was in the form of “maquila” (cut and sew operations) and when the industry demanded Full Package, not all the manufacturers were prepared for the change.
The central portion of the country, where Guadalajara is located, is perhaps the most characteristically “Mexican” region of the country. Guadalajara, in the state of Jalisco, is the second largest city in Mexico, and was founded on the 12th of February of 1542. It is home to the Universidad de Guadalajara, the nation's second largest university.
 The UdG (as it is known throughout Mexico), was founded over 200 years ago in November of 1792 and now boasts over 150,000 students from high school through post graduate schools. The Ergonomic Department of the Design School of this university has always been interested in the study of human body proportions and its relationship to its environment. Over the past 10 years, they have been involved in getting anthropomorphic data of the regional population. In an effort to expand the universe of their survey, they presented a project proposal to Conacyt (Mexican entity for the pursuit of science and technology) in which a better way of measuring individuals by using a body scanner, was singled out.
In 2003, the search for the correct scanner was started by two of the investigators, Dr. Rosalio Avila and Dr. Lilia Prado. This couple had in the past done some surveys of the Jalisco population with tape hand measurements. They selected the 3D body scanning technology that was being developed at [TC]², establishing contact with Dr. David Bruner, [TC]²'s Vice President of Technology Development.
In November of 2003, these two investigators visited [TC]²'s Cary, NC facilities to be trained on the scanner. The first body scanner in Mexico was installed in Guadalajara in January 2004 and they immediately set out to scan their students and fellow colleagues. The original project was to do a survey in the three major cities of Mexico (Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey), urban centers that have a concentration of about 30% of the population, making an interesting study for apparel manufacturers in the country. While this is still the intent, because of monetary constraints, they have been limited to doing scans in Guadalajara. They plan to petition Conacyt for more funds to cover the two remaining cities.
A final report will be published on the 2,100 people scanned to date in Guadalajara. The age categories were organized into 6 age brackets (by sex) from 15 to 65 years of age, with 54% or 1131 female subjects and 46% or 973 male subjects.
Some of the sites picked to scan the people were schools of the UdG as well as some factories, hospitals and even at a fashion show. People of all occupations were scanned - plant workers, doctors, engineers, secretaries, and police. Due to the Mexican diet and the globalization of junk food, along with a change in living habits, there is a major increase in the level of obesity throughout the Mexican population. Preliminary data from this survey in Guadalajara shows a significant jump in this category compared to what this pair of investigators had documented in their past study, some 10 years ago. Mexican children are especially at risk in regard to this problem. The UdG researchers believe that through these 3D body scans and the correct interpretation of the data, a well documented word of warning can be sent to the population.
[TC]² looks forward to continuing to work with the ergonomic experts at the UdG in their quest of “measuring” the Mexican population.
Article submitted by Arturo Rodriguez, [TC]² Contract Services Latin America
Para leer este articulo en ESPAÑOL, haga clic aquí.
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Member Profile - Lectra
 Key strategic challenges have brought Lectra and their customers together for over 30 years. Formed in 1973, its first pattern-making and grading system was sold three years later. International expansion began soon after and 1985 saw the introduction of its first automated fabric cutting system. With the acquisition of Spanish-based Investronica Sistemas in 2004, Lectra continues to achieve global leadership in the textile technology world.
With over 17,000 customers in over 100 countries, Lectra has become a world leader in providing a comprehensive range of high technology solutions and related services to the many industrial users of textiles, leather and other soft materials. From product design, to manufacturing, to retailing, Lectra solutions span entire product life-cycles. Lectra's offerings includes software and CAD/CAM equipment, along with a secure Internet communications platform. Lectra is able to provide entire successful solutions for its customer's major strategic challenges while responding to the specific needs of each individual market.
With 1,600 employees worldwide dedicated to Lectra's mission, partnerships also enhance Lectra's ability to achieve its technological milestones. Alliances with other industry suppliers enable Lectra to offer color management solutions, advance digital printing and fabric design capabilities, and body measurement solutions for mass customization of apparel.
Although founded and based in France, Lectra continues to generate 90% of its revenue outside the country. Working to build worldwide customer relationships has made what Lectra it is – and does – today.
Lectra is a strong supporter of [TC]²'s mission. As an Associate Member, Lectra supplies products featured in [TC]²'s demonstration area and utilized in its daily operations. [TC]² gratefully acknowledges Lectra's support as a sponsor of its recent 25th Anniversary Reception and Open House.
For more information, visit www.lectra.com .
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Important Dates
June
28-29 |
SizeUSA User's Group Training and Meeting. Panel discussion by leading academic researchers, and presentations from industry representatives using SizeUSA data. A new sortable/searchable database will be presented to licensed users. For more information or to register, click here. |
July
20 |
Geac presents PLM Seminar at [TC]². For more details or to register for the event, visit www.runtime.geac.com . |
For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com
Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Intentia, Lectra and Methods Workshop.
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A Look Ahead
SEAMS Annual Meeting Highlights from Myrtle Beach, SC
Overview of SPESA Annual Meeting at Palm Coast, FL
View previous editions of this newsletter
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