TC2 - Newsletter

AAFA, AAPN, CCAA, SPESA, AND [TC]²
Announce the Apparel Conference of the Americas
One Region … One Market … One Source

The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA), American Apparel Producers Network (AAPN), Caribbean Central American Action (CCAA), Sewn Products Equipment & Suppliers of the Americas (SPESA), and the Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation ([TC]²) have joined together to launch the “The Apparel Conference of the Americas: One Region … One Market … One Source.”

Introduction to Apparel Manufacturing
Room Still Available!
April 24-28, 2006

Don’t miss this comprehensive course at [TC]², providing details and methodologies from fiber to a finished product.

Digital Technology and the Human Hand
By Kim Anderson, Ph.D., writer/reporter for [TC]²

I still get prickly remembering the spring semester of 1989 at North Carolina State University. One of the few times that I was actually excited about signing up for another round of classes—this time I was going to take the much talked about printing class, taught by the even more talked about professor—Susan Brandeis. Much to my disappointment…she was on sabbatical all that year. Later, as an instructor, I was able to sit-in on one of Brandeis’s classes. Yes, she is a great teacher who adeptly breaks down and shares the mysteries of design. She has a seemingly effortless way of tapping into a student’s strengths and weaknesses—steering them closer to their full potential.

Recently, while researching digital printing, I ran across a website showcasing a workshop, Digital Printing and Hand Embellishment on Fabric…very interesting and the instructor was Susan Brandeis, and yes, the class was already full. When did Susan start using digital printing as a medium? Susan was not only a great teacher but a very talented artist. I always thought of Susan as a purist, a hand printer using innovative materials and techniques to produce artwork that was impossible to create using conventional printing techniques. I wondered—how was she using this new technology and what did she think of it?

Through a series of carefully considered projects, Brandeis has systematically investigated the pros and cons of digital printing from an artist’s perspective—one who values the human hand. As a consequence, she has created some breathtaking pieces. Brandeis incorporates photographs of inspirational places. She uses the digital printer to translate the highly complex and sophisticated images onto fabric, then utilizes adept hand-skilled techniques to add surface texture and detail, creating pieces that could only be produced by a combination of technology and hand artistry. Brandeis has succeeded in utilizing the unique characteristics of each process to produce intricate pieces of art.

Succulence (2005) 39” high x 79” wide
Top: shown in its entirety
Below: Two sections shown close up
Digitally printed, hand and machine embroidered and hand beaded. Cotton and silk fabrics. Glass beads.

Discovered Secrets (2001) 50.25” high x 72.5” wide
Top: shown in its entirety
Below: Two sections shown close up
Digitally printed, hand dyed, machine embroidered. Cotton twill and sateen; silk organza; cotton/polyester threads.

Messages from the Past (2001) 38” high x 76” wide
Top: shown in its entirety
Below: Two sections shown close up
Digitally printed, hand dyed, screen printed, discharge printed, felted, reverse appliqué, appliquéd and machine embroidered. Cotton twill and broadcloth; silk noil and organza; merino wool fibers; cotton/polyester threads.

From her research, Brandeis has made some valuable conclusions regarding the pros and cons of each of the processes. Brandeis points out that digital printing allows the artist to increase the complexity of their designs; relieves the artist of the sometimes harmful repetitive motion entailed with hand printing; reduces the artist’s and the environment’s exposure to chemicals; increases the speed at which the artist can produce intricate designs; and allows for the creation of designs that are not possible by hand.

Brandeis also points out some of the sacrifices an artist makes when utilizing digital technology. The artist loses intimacy with the materials. The absence of hand control in the application of color can jeopardize surface interest created by the human touch. Brandeis also explains that the separation from the materials can be a compromise to the artist. Every artist has a unique attraction to the tools and tactile elements of their chosen medium. Advanced technology separates the artist from the tactile senses.

Brandeis also understands the cost factor. A digital printer and the necessary accoutrements, computer, monitor, scanner, etc. requires a hefty investment. She also mentions the challenges of color calibration and the time it takes to become proficient in the software that allows the artist to translate their work into printed form.

Brandeis continues to experiment with combinations of patterns, colors, textures, and images using digital printing and hand artistry, producing spectacular pieces along the way. For more information on Susan Brandeis’s current research and workshops go to http://www4.ncsu.edu/~brandeis

On March 21st, [TC]² held its Annual Meeting of Members and the Board of Directors, hosting 17 Board members and 28 industry representatives. Newly elected Board members are Frank Childers of Nordstrom; Brian Francois of Cognis Corporation; and Jeff Frye of Gap, Inc. (For a complete listing of board members, see http://www.tc2.com/news/news_board3.html.)

[TC]² staff members presented business highlights from 2005 and forecasted projects for 2006. Mike Fralix reported that total operating revenue for [TC]² in 2005 was up over 7% from 2004 and we received an increase in the Department of Commerce grant for 2006-07 fiscal year. Mike reiterated the [TC]² Values: Service to Customers, Integrity, Dignity and Respect to Employees, and Innovation were now formalized into our organization. David Bruner reported on the 3D technology research and 3D body scanner sales. Jud Early covered the area of Technology Dissemination including new additions to the Demonstration Center and improvements to the [TC]² web site, techexchange.com and the newsletter. Jim Lovejoy presented the [TC]² Industry Programs including new seminars, the SizeUSA User Group, and the Student Summer Internship Program. Will Duncan reported on Contract Services with projects in the US and Latin America as well as workshops in Lean Practices and Industrial Engineering.

Two guest speakers, Dr. Tim Clapp of North Carolina State University, and Brian Francois of Cognis Corporation, discussed innovative advancements being developed in their respective organizations. According to Dr. Clapp, the key to competitiveness in the new economy is innovation. Companies should be accelerating innovation by identifying opportunities faster and generating innovative products quicker. Some of the work being conducted at NCSU includes nano fibers to prevent counterfeiting; antimicrobial fabrics; and garments with customized layers containing protective attributes. Huemetrix is a start-up company created to measure dye processes for consistent shading. The college has received funding through Homeland Security for the development of firefighter turnout gear, which includes ergonomic changes to its design for comfort, mobility, and protection.

Cognis specializes in chemical innovations for apparel fabrics, and Brian Francois talked about release mechanisms and wash permanency in fabrics. He stated that with a global trend towards personal wellness, and new cosmetic applications such as moisture, fragrance and odor control are being introduced to the market. Cognis has done extensive consumer research and testing to show evidence of efficacy in the products.

As part of a recent Bolivian trip, Tim Curran and Arturo Rodriguez of [TC]² had the opportunity to visit a unique social project called Fabrica de Embellecimiento “Nueva Esperanza” or New Hope Embellishment Factory.

Embedded in the industrial city of El Alto, Bolivia at more than 12,000 feet above sea level, with the help of BTBC (Bolivian Trade and Business Competitiveness, which draws funds from USAID) five mothers organized and started a 50 operator plant dedicated exclusively to the embellishment of Bolivian made apparel—all for export to the USA.

It was quite an experience to see all these Bolivian mothers (that is one of the requirements to be admitted) sewing all sorts of shiny beads, etc. to ladies’ blouses and pants. And, thanks to the help of a Bolivian consultant, Andres Saldias, they have an ergonomic workstation that makes their hand sewing work much easier.

In August 2005, a new company was created in the poorest city of Bolivia, El Alto. The company was named “Nueva Esperanza” or “New Hope.”

A Business Plan was performed by Andres Saldias, BTBC-USAID consultant, with great projected results not only from the financial perspective, but also because of the social impact in the City of El Alto.

America Textil – AMETEX, the largest textile cut and sew garment producer in Bolivia, identified a new market segment for the U.S., so called “embellishment” trends, which includes hand bidding, rhinestone attachments, etc. These products are necessarily produced by hand, providing an important added value to the finished garment, but one that is extremely labor intensive. Ametex is interested in outsourcing this production process. City Hall of El Alto had contributed with four months’ rent payment (US $800 per month) for the infra-
structure to build the factory, so the company will have enough time to generate income to use their own resources for all operational expenses.

Based on this specific demand on a subcontracting relationship basis with Ametex, throughout the USAID project: Democratic Initiatives has donated equipment and supplies, including embellishment work stations, lighting, fire extinguishers, computers, needles,
threads, etc.

In addition, USAID project: Bolivian Trade and Business Competitiveness has contributed by providing an expert in business development services to implement this new company on the entire production and management cycle, with activities such as:

• Technology development for industrial production by designing a specific work station for industrial embellishment processes.
• Infrastructure implementation accomplishing all Vendor Compliance/Code of Conduct issues (industrial safety, environmental issues, labor minimum age, etc.)
• Training and organization of all personnel, with specific responsibilities and duties.
• Product engineering and development.
• Production scheduling and production control.
• Costing and pricing.
• Inventory control and warehousing.
• Quality Control technologies implementation (Acceptance Quality Level N.4).
• Administrative structure and processes
• Market development and merchandising.

This new company was formed by inviting Mothers’ organizations of the City of El Alto that had previous experience in hand workmanship. Two hundred fifty mothers were trained for over three weeks with a specific training program toward export quality and industrial productivity. Finally, 70 people were selected to work in the factory and earn a monthly wage, with some having the opportunity to work for the first time.

• Five women are holding 30% of the value of the assets for six months. These women will be purchasing 20% additional value of the   company. They are being trained to manage the company within the next three months.
• Fifty percent of the company will be sold within one year to additional Mothers or potential investors to increase company capital and   assets.
• Three industrial orders were produced for Ametex, meeting delivery dates and quality standards for over 20,000 units for U.S.   customers.
• U.S. quality auditor of the firm The Limited Too has inspected the factory and 14,000 embellished garments, accepting quality with zero   defects and has congratulated the company.
• Six thousand units were produced for customer Polo Ralph Lauren.
• Production for MILLMA, the largest Bolivian knitted alpaca sweater company, was performed with great quality and on-time deliveries.
• Production for BATT, a local Bolivian brand, was performed with export quality levels.
• Seventy women are currently working with quality mentality as well as production efficiency.
• The company has capacity for 240 women in two shifts and will be hiring additional staff according to market needs.

This pilot initiative is extremely helpful to implement similar projects in order to achieve poverty reduction and sustainable economic growth in the City of El Alto.

[TC]² is working with BTBC and the AMETEX organization to provide technical assistance in this region.

The Marena Group was started by Bill and Vera Watkins in 1995 as a family business with the intent of allowing them to have more control over their family life. Deciding to get into the post operative surgical garment market, they began by selling products made with high technology fabrics into Latin America. The Marena Group has worked diligently over the years with various textile companies to design a fabric, dubbed "Comfortweave," exclusively for the post surgical garment industry. Manufactured with a patent-pending knitting design and laboratory tested, ComfortWeave fabric holds its shape even after 60,000 flexes and 30 extreme washes. The Marena Group is on their sixth generation of Comfortweave fabric.

The latest version is being marketed as "F5" fabric because it offers unparalleled performance in 5 areas: Power/Stretch, Durability, Softness, Moisture Management and Antimicrobial protection.

When asked about how The Marena Group does so much in such a niche market, John Rogelstad, Director of Operations, remarks with how much it partners with companies like [TC]². “We have been in touch with [TC]² for years. My first visit up there was for a technology conference in 2003 where we learned about the CAD technology available by Optitex, which we ultimately adopted, and the SizeUSA program which we have also incorporated into our business. We were also very inspired by the program [TC]² did on Zara in New York a few months back. We are currently in the process of building what we think is an entirely new business model in apparel based on the concept of directly interacting with customers on design concepts and delivering personalized garments.”

The Marena Group is realizing that they can improve upon what they produce by offering what many retailers don’t. Many are offering "customized" garments currently online, but what the Marena Group is working on goes much deeper. It involves responding to customer needs quickly and with personalization others do not offer. “Ultimately, we think the great work [TC]² has done on body scanning technology will also become an important part of our business model. Mass customization has been the holy grail for apparel companies for years, but as far as we know, no company has made it an exclusive core competency on a large scale. Most of the industry is fixated on cost reduction and supply chain issues,” adds John.

This new direction for The Marena Group is important because although they are proud of their current product offering in the medical world, it is very dependent on a fickle and rapidly changing textile industry over which they have little control. What they do have control over is our U.S. based apparel manufacturing operation, and they are working hard to successfully leverage its advantages to the
fullest extent.

[TC]²
211 Gregson Drive
Cary , NC 27511
www.tc2.com
Phone: 919-380-2156
Fax: 919-380-2181
Email:

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