[TC]² Bi-Weekly Technology Communicator |
February 8, 2006 |
[TC]² Seminar Offerings
Register Now!
Zara – Fast Fashion Workshop - March 6, 2006
Co-presented by [TC]² and the UK’s Industry Forum, this one-day workshop will discuss the methodologies used by Zara to achieve its rapid sales growth. The program will focus on speed to market initiatives and customer retention methodologies.
Speaker Bio: Ken Watson is director of the Fashion Industry Forum, the joint government/industry initiative to create a more profitable supply chain. He is also Managing Director of Industry Forum Services, a consultancy which assists retailers and manufacturers in global sourcing, lean thinking and in delivering fast fashion. Ken is an expert in supply chain issues and has extensive knowledge in international retailing, wholesaling and distribution, having worked in most of the major markets throughout the world, covering all areas of the retail supply pipeline.
For more details, or to register, call Maria Muñiz at 919.653.3507, or visit http://www.tc2.com/what/seminars.html.
[TC]² Reinstates Its Summer Internship Program
[TC]²’s highly acclaimed student internship study program for rising seniors in apparel and textile management programs at U.S. universities is being re-established this year. Commencing May 30th, the eight week program will include seminars and hands-on training in various subjects including lean manufacturing concepts, sourcing, pattern development and grading, merchandising, product costing,seams and stitches classifications, and much more. The three focus areas are: Supply Chain Strategies, Product Development, and Business Planning.
Eighty interns have participated in similar programs from 1989 to 2000. Many of these individuals are still active in the industry in various capacities. The selected students for 2006 will receive paid travel to Cary, NC, housing, and a stipend during the course of the eight-week internship. Final selection will be made by the AAFA Human Resources Leadership Council. To request an internship application, click here.
The Emerging World of Digital Printing
Textile printing is an ancient and accomplished art. Today, there are numerous printing techniques and dyes used to impart designs onto textiles, each having their own set of limitations, benefits and distinctive aesthetic qualities. In the last fifteen years, a new way of imparting designs onto fabric has emerged—digital printing is rapidly segueing into full-fledged commercial success. Academic instructors are embracing the technology both professionally and academically—preparing students to be digitally armed in the new era. Upcoming issues of [TC]²’s newsletter will showcase some of the intriguing and cutting edge projects underway in the world of academia—where students have their last chance to push the limits of design to the edge before settling down into the commercial world in which the rest of us reside.
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Body Scanning Research Abounds at Cornell University
By Kim Anderson, Ph.D., writer/reporter for [TC]²
Thanks to a generous donation from an alumnus, Cornell University installed its first body scanner in 2000. Since then, the Department of Textiles and Apparel has acquired a [TC]² NX-12 scanner and research abounds. Susan Ashdown, Associate Professor, is spear-heading an array of new projects with students in tow. Recently, Professor Ashdown took time out of her busy schedule to share some of their latest research endeavors.
Talking with Ashdown, you’d never know she just returned from a demanding sabbatical—energy and enthusiasm for her research is palpable in her voice. Ashdown explains that 3D body scanning allows researchers to examine the body in ways that haven’t been possible until now.
Before the advent of body scanning technology, the correlation between body shape and size was about as clear as mud. Designing a sizing system that can accommodate the vast variety of body shapes is after all, a daunting task.

Three women, each of whom wears a size 10 pant
Image Courtesy of Cornell Body Scan Research Group
Body scanning technology allows researchers to simultaneously evaluate body size and shape, and much more.
Ashdown refers to the body scanner as a fancy tape measure. She explains that with the body scanner, measurements that are intrusive or difficult to measure can be quickly and easily taken.
Using a software program, a smooth silhouette can be generated from body scan data. Using the same software, surface area, slice area and volume can be measured and evaluated—allowing researchers to zero in on fit in a way that has previously been technologically impossible. Armed with an arsenal of data, researchers can analyze the interaction between the garment and body shape, which is far more enlightening than relying on outside stretches and sags of fabric.
Space Between the Body and Clothing
Image: Adriana Petrova, Cornell University
Ashdown explains that surface area gives a direct comparison between the body and the garment surface, showing a much more complex relationship than a linear measurement would. A wonderful shape and distribution around a central axis can be seen with slice images. And volume actually measures the space between the body and the garment—a true measure of fit that could not be visualized or measured before scanners.
According to Ashdown, the next step will be to examine the interaction between the body and different fabric constructions and weights using the same pattern design.
Cornell researchers are conducting a virtual try-on study. They are evaluating ways to help the online shopper choose the right size. Scan data is used to generate a realistic virtual 3D image of the customer. Different sizes of a garment are draped onto the image, which can then be rotated to view the front, back and sides.
In this example, the body shows through in areas where the pant is too tight.
The body shows through the pants in areas of tight fit
Image Courtesy of Cornell Body Scan Research Group
In this example, the pants gape at the waist and other areas indicating they are too large.
Example of Pants that are too big
Image Courtesy of Cornell Body Scan Research Group
A good fit can be seen when the pants fit snugly at the waist and hips and hang softly away from the legs.
Ideal Fitting Pants
Image Courtesy of Cornell Body Scan Research Group
Future projects are as numerous as they are varied. A virtual fit study will follow the virtual try-on study. Researchers will investigate how well people can determine fit from a 3D virtual image. The study will consist of women from India and the U.S. The participants will examine 3D images previously generated from scans. From these images researchers hope to determine whether scanned images can be used to generate an effective virtual fit experience.
Professor Ashdown will soon be collaborating with colleagues from the University of Minnesota, Oklahoma State, and the University of California at Davis in a project funded by the USDA. Researchers will investigate the design of disposable coveralls for the agriculture sector. Sounds simple; not quite, the challenges are numerous. The fabric, being disposable, is not robust, ripping easily. And finding the right fit is not only a comfort issue but a safety one as well. The coveralls need to fit well to protect the wearer against hazards such as asbestos and pesticides, yet baggy enough to allow ease of movement. Adding to the challenge, Ashdown explains, is that agricultural workers come in all shapes and sizes imaginable.
Another project in the queue involves the integration of pattern fit and design. Fit can be tweaked by using different pattern designs that are more forgiving as well as materials and design features such as elastic and gussets. Different combinations of pattern design, materials and features will be investigated.
This is just a snippet of what Professor Ashdown has up her sleeve. The Department of Textiles and Apparel at Cornell is no doubt a busy and exciting place. For more information, visit www.explore.cornell.edu/bodyscanner.
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[TC]² Activity
COLOMBIATEX de las Americas 2006
Medellin , Colombia
January 24 – 26, 2006
By Arturo Rodríguez, [TC]² Contract Services - Latin America
[TC]² was part of the 18th edition of Colombia’s premier supplier show to the apparel trade, Colombiatex de las Americas. This year INEXMODA, the show organizers, added the words “de las Americas” which means “of the Americas,” and it was truly an international event. We had visitors in our stand from Brazil, Ecuador, Guatemala, Mexico, and Peru, in addition to the home crowd of Colombia. In its beginnings, this show was only 1,484 sq. meters with 73 exhibitors. This past event for 2006 boasted over 6,500 sq. meters of show space with over 400 exhibitors from Colombia as well as from the US, Mexico, Brazil, Ecuador, Chile, and Peru. During the 3 days of the exhibition, over 8,500 attendees flocked to the fairgrounds. Pro-Export’s Apparel Manager, Claritza Rojas, announced that $33.1 million in commercial transactions were done, mostly with the US and Venezuela. Some 642 international buyers were present during the event, making this show a “must” on the international agenda. [TC]² thanks the SPESA organization that most graciously shared their booth space.
The global environment of the apparel industry certainly has caught on in Colombia. During the show, the main topic was how the FTA negotiations with the US were coming along. You could compare the pace of the negotiations to that of a long distance runner. We all would want the speed of a dasher, but nevertheless, Colombia will arrive at the end of 2006 with an FTA that will permit this thriving Colombian industry to compete for its share of the US market. Colombian apparel is second to none in regard to quality and price, and because of its proximity to the market place, with the correct business practices (such as Lean Manufacturing), it is a powerful contender. Global, in other words China, had its implications in this South American country during Colombiatex 2006. The different sewing and textile chambers of Colombia met with their President on the last day of the show, to demand that he uphold the restrictions that were imposed (in August of 2005) to imports from that country due to their unfair pricing principles.
Another characteristic of these times in the land of the emeralds is their President, Alvaro Uribe. This extremely outspoken “paisa” (as people from Medellin are called) has gotten a strong grip on the country’s problems and has a popularity rating of over 70%. A true believer in the FTA initiative of the Americas, President Uribe has seen the benefit of a strong textile / apparel supply chain in Colombia with regard to creating employment for its 40+ million inhabitants, that faced an un-employment rate of 11.7% at the end of 2005.
Columbia’s economy is ranked among the top 5 in Latin America. Medellin, called the “silver cup”, is a lovely city nested in between two mountain ranges that stretches in a south-north direction along side the Medellin River. The valley is called Aburra and is home to approximately 3 million “paisas.” Medellin and the surrounding area of the State of Antioquia harbor roughly 50% of the sewing trade in Colombia. In this region, an estimated 100,000 direct operators generate much of Colombia’s $50 million monthly exports to the US. These hard working operators turn out jeans, ladies intimate wear, shirts, men’s suits, fashion wear and also leather goods. During the Colombia visit, [TC]² conducted a two day workshop with 67 participants on Lean Manufacturing for a leather goods manufacturer. The program included several hands on exercises targeted for the 20+ suppliers of the leather company. Lean manufacturing is performance without waste and in an industry where the raw material (leather) is more 60% of the product’s cost, waste is a crucial element in profitability. The Colombian leather industry exported $101.1 million worth of products in 2005 mainly to the US and Venezuela.
Lean Manufacturing (or in Spanish MANUFACTURA ESBELTA) is becoming a mainstay in the Colombian sewing trade. With partnership through Grupo Ingenieros XXI, headed by Juan Fernando Vasquez, [TC]² has hosted three lean manufacturing workshops, and other programs are projected for this year through Colombia’s public training institute, SENA.
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Member Profile

Contemporary Vision
Karla Colletto’s name is also her swimline. Not just any swimline – one with unmatched sophistication, style and fit. When Sports Illustrated went looking for swimsuits for their models – they chose more than just one to highlight. What is described as aquatic couture blends traditional tailoring with future-forward fabrics; a look that’s bold and alluring and one-hundred percent couture is what Karla Colletto is all about.
Karla Colletto, educated in New England, gained experience early on by working on custom bridal gowns and sportswear pieces. After enlisting Lisa Rovan as a business partner, the Karla Colletto company quickly focused in on the then-quiet world of swimwear. What was needed was someone who understood how a woman needed to fit in something so revealing and still feel and look great.
Karla Colletto took to the task of hand-making individual suits for individual bodies, and it worked. Using unique fabrics, whimsical cut-outs and unexpected details, Karla Colletto carved out an exciting niche in an otherwise mundane market. Stunning, original suits replaced the standard suit made from a traditional mold.
Karla Colletto is inspired by technological advances, computer-generated imaging and the endless possibilities of hyper-innovation textiles. Superior synthetic materials are paired with ahead-of-their-time manufacturing techniques. “I’m consistently challenged by technology,” says Karla Colletto. “The fact that I can create a new garment based on recent innovation is truly rewarding.”
Luxurious Italian micro-fibers in rich colors and striking patterns are at the heart of each Karla Colletto suit. In-house manufacturing ensures the intricate dressmaker-like quality that lends these pieces their highly-developed sense of style. With a striking yet utterly feminine look, Karla Colletto pieces embody and transcend the quintessential swimsuit. Without a doubt, the woman who chooses a Karla Colletto piece is subject to the personal attention that Karla Colletto is known for and the glamour of the perfect swimsuit.
For more information, please visit www.karlacolletto.com.
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Important Dates
February
March
6 |
Zara – Fast Fashion Workshop at [TC]² - for details, click here. |
21 |
Annual Meeting of Members and the Board of Directors at [TC]²’s Cary, NC office. |
28-29 |
Expo Costura, World Trade Center, Mexico City. Visit [TC]² at booth #705.
For more show details, go to http://www.provest.com.mx/expocostura/ |
April
4-6 |
Material World & Technology Solutions, Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami, FL
To register, or for more information, visit www.material-world.com |
5-7 |
Grading for Fit seminar at [TC]². For details, click here. |
24-26 |
SPESA 2006 Annual Meeting, Harrah’s Rio Hotel & Casino, Las Vegas.
For more information, visit www.spesa.org. |
24-28 |
Introduction to Apparel Manufacturing Seminar at [TC]². For more information or to register, visit http://www.tc2.com/what/seminars.html |
For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com
Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Intentia, Lectra and Methods Workshop.
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A Look Ahead in the Newsletter

Body Scanning University Research
MAGIC Show Review
View previous editions of this newsletter
[TC]²
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