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Index NRF Convention and Expo Enterprise Competitiveness Council Seminar [TC]² Activity Member Profile - Methods Workshop Important Dates A Look Ahead

NRF Convention and Expo

The National Retail Federation (NRF) held its 94th Annual Convention and Expo in New York from January 16-19, 2005. The [TC]² attendees observed a wide variety of exhibitors including POS systems, software solutions, and financial, training, and merchant services. Forums and sessions were held throughout the week on retail strategies, branding, RFID, merchandising, operations, supply chain and CEO Insights.

The annual conference is aimed at bringing many types of retailers together to learn and exchange ideas on the use of technology, new ideas for merchandising, understanding consumer trends, operations and organizing for efficiency.

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Enterprise Competitiveness Council Seminar Termed Successful

(This is a summary; for the complete article visit www.techexchange.com )

Despite the surprise weather pattern that spread snow from North Carolina to New Jersey, most of the 126 registrants made it to the AAFA/ECC Seminar titled Shaping Strategies - Meeting the Dynamic Consumer Needs. Hosted by Liz Claiborne at their North Bergen, New Jersey Distribution Center, the seminar attracted people from all areas of industry and provided a great networking opportunity, along with presentations on several relevant topics.

An opportunity to tour the Liz Claiborne automated distribution center was afforded to those who arrived early. Groups of 35 to 40 people were dispatched in waves, at two minute intervals. With hosts from management, the groups each entered the work flow at different points, with one group starting at receiving, another at sorting, and a third at Quality Assurance. Each group moved briskly in what is obviously a well practiced tour sequence, stopping for commentary on what we were seeing, and with time for a question or two. The center processes over one hundred thousand garments each day, receiving cartons from distant vendors, inspecting for quality compliance, and putting away stock to be picked for orders, sorted, packed and shipped on outbound trucks. (To learn how they do it, click here for the complete article.)

ECC leaders Rick Ludolph and David Roy thanked Member Stan Austin for hosting the seminar. The very nice fifth floor facility easily handled the crowd, with room for snacks, drink and lunch service. Launching directly into the program, the first speaker was Todd Werneke, Senior Product Research Specialist with Proctor & Gamble. Todd spoke on consumer insight and knowledge. His first postulate was “Consumer Is Boss”. Todd went on to say that a successful product development requires identifying “the Boss's” needs and that product developers must design an experience to meet the need. Unmet needs are of high importance, and create low satisfaction. Direct interaction with consumers is an imperative, and should involve the R&D team. Use one-on-one research as well as focus groups to better understand behaviors, motivations, and perceptions of your target customer. Discussion of the importance of keeping fresh products in the pipeline, and compressing the development cycle are also required in this environment of instant gratification, and desire for newness. Taking two years to develop a new consumer product places the product at a disadvantage. Competitors who can respond more quickly will grab early market share, and it is difficult to recapture. An interesting note, related to the fabric care nature of P&G's products, is that there is substantially less ironing done by today's consumer.

David Bassuk of KSA spoke on Product Development To Gain Competitive Edge. Effective product development demands newness, speed, and discipline. The value of speed is illustrated by examining three different retail models. The first, Traditional, achieves about 4.4 inventory turns, and produces a margin of 7%. Examples given are Lands' End and Talbots. The Updated Model, with around 5.5 turns and a 10% margin are representative of Gap, PacSun and Timberland. The New Model, with 6.8 turns, and delivering a 16.2% margin are the likes of H&M, A&F, Chicos, Zara, and American Eagle Outfitters. Thus, the replenishment model delivers less margin than the continual stream of new, updated merchandise. ( To learn more, click here .)

Irene Mak, Vice President of Technical Design for American Eagle Outfitters was co-presenter with Roxie Starr of Shapely Shadow. Their topic: Fast Fit- Digital Visualization To Speed The Approval Process. Irene told how American Eagle is dependent upon digital imaging as an integral part of the product development process. Citing that the old way of fit approval often required making six fit samples, shipping them by courier between point of manufacture and approval, and the cost and time involved in obtaining approval on one garment, today, through the use of digital visualization, no more than three fit samples are required, and occasionally only two. It is better, faster, and cheaper to use digital imaging to transport highly detailed images that can be rotated and viewed in a simulated three dimensional manner. These images can be sent instantly around the world, allowing time shifting and eliminating delay in communicating fit, and reaching the approval stage in days, not weeks. Starting with a design concept, they progress to prototypes, do fittings using visual imaging, and move into production and into stores in rapid-fire fashion. The old way requires the use of a fit model at every stage, at a cost of $275 per hour, plus an agency fee of 20%, so has a cost of $330 per hour, even if the fitting only requires ten minutes. Taking the $330 figure, times 10 minutes each, times 750 fittings per year, times six employees involved, and the total cost comes to $112,500 per development person per year. After installing the 360 degree image kit, the annual cost was reduced from $982,000 to $675,000. The 360 kit allows rotation and zoom magnification of the garment on a virtual model. The image is made up of stitched jpeg files, resulting in a small file size that is easily sent via e-mail to any contractor or manufacturer site around the world.

Lois Davis, Vice President of Logistics for Liz Claiborne spoke on Logistics/Product Flow and Allocations. A registered import/export broker, Lois spoke of factors that influence logistics decisions. This would seem to be a nightmare job, but speaking in a calm voice, described things that would keep any normal person up at night. The need to know what is taking place at any point around the world is key to making informed decisions. West coast port congestion is becoming a big problem. Ports were built for vessel displacement of 2,000 tons, but ships now are at 8,000 tons. Unloading these behemoths takes much longer. Crane operations can make 30-32 moves per hour per crane. What once required one day to unload, now takes two or three. West coast ports are at 97% of fully loaded capacity. What happens when the flow of goods resulting from quota elimination arrive is still an unknown, but it is known that it will not be good. (To learn more, click here.)

Following the four presentations, roundtable discussion groups were assembled around the four topical areas, with two forty-five minute sessions, allowing anyone to be involved in two subject area roundtables. The opportunity to meet, share and network was great, and if all attendees received as much benefit as this writer, the next seminar will again be a sell-out.

Article by Jud Early , [TC]²'s Corporate Vice President of Research and Chief Technology Officer.

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[TC]² Activity

ASTM D1366 Sewn Products Automation Committee

(This is a summary; to read the complete article, visit www.techexchange.com )

Standards for apparel and sewn products automation, and electronic data exchange.

In case you have not noticed, the apparel and sewn products industry is changing. Many years ago, AAMA's Apparel Research Committee (ARC) started an active process of developing voluntary standards for apparel and sewn products automation. This work has passed through ANSI managed by the AAMA/ARC to the ASTM (originally known as the American Society for Testing and Materials) supported by AAMA/ARC to the current work of ASTM International in communication with AAFA's Enterprise Competitiveness Council (ECC).

With strong support of an international group of suppliers, primarily CAD, plotter and cutter producers, and the loyal support of a few end users, the process continues in the ASTM Committee: D1366 Sewn Products Automation. In the years the process has been a part of the ASTM, four standards have been produced:

•  Standard Practice for Formatting Cutting Data to Drive Numerically Controlled Fabric Cutting Machines

•  Standard Practice for Sewn Products Pattern Data Interchange-Data Format

•  Standard Practice for Data Exchange Format for Sewn Product Plotting Devices

•  Terminology for Sewn Products Automation

These are recognized international standards and are available from ASTM. Current projects include developing voluntary standards for marker data exchange, improving pattern data exchange, improving N.C. cutter data exchange, body measurement and scanning data exchange, and body scanner system evaluations.

Who needs standards anyway? Don't they already exist? What can I do?

Standards are required for any business that has relationships with other companies; efficient communication without them is impossible. Have you ever asked the sales person selling a computerized marking and grading system that the one your contractors own if his system can use the same files as the system you own and the contractors' systems? The first response is, “No problem”, followed by the technical staff with, “Not exactly”. A standard file format would eliminate this confusion. The need for data transfer standards is even greater now due to our global marketplace, international subcontracting, full package production implications, company mergers, and the elimination of quotas.

In 2000, ASTM began establishing, validating, and publishing Sewn Products Automation standards. The D1366 subcommittee for Sewn Products Automation was established with ARC member Jim Hiegel as the chairman. ASTM's role is to provide organization and structure for the standard-setting process. Volunteers, both suppliers and users, determine what standards should be created. ASTM manages the process, certifies and distributes the approved standards. Their use is voluntary unless required by users and suppliers.

Member companies, especially the users of CAD and other automation systems, are very active participants in D1366 to create the incentive for CAD and other suppliers to embrace the need for creating and improving standards. The work of this committee will only continue with supplier and user support and participation.

ASTM meetings

The ASTM D1366 subcommittee meets as a part of the ASTM D13 committee on Textiles at its semi-annual meetings. This is an opportunity for sewn products users and suppliers to take an active role in establishing needed standards. This meeting is open to non-ASTM members and is not a high tech session; representatives from the sewn products industry small and large are necessary to make the industry aware of their needs for standards. The cost to participate is a voluntary $25 refreshment fee and your own travel expenses. At a higher level, personal membership in the ASTM is $75 per year which includes a new yearly standards volume.

The bi-annual meeting of the Sewn Products Automation committee is scheduled as a part of ASTM Committee Week, March 14-15, 2005, in Philadelphia. It is an open meeting and individuals are invited to attend parts or all of the meeting. If you are interested in attending, advance information is available online at www.astm.org , or through the committee chairman, Jim Hiegel, at 972.943.8041. The next meeting will be in Dallas, TX October 16-19.

For additional information on ASTM committees and standards, click here.

Article submitted by Dr. Jim Hiegel, ASTM Sewn Products Automation Chairman, Keller Graduate School of Management of DeVry University

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Member Profile

A Niche in Industrial Engineering Solutions

Methods Workshop LLC has provided engineered solutions to the Sewn Products Industries for more than two decades. A strong reputation was built while providing leading-edge industrial engineering concepts, engineering support and production systems.

Clients are offered state-of-the-art technology and systems, training, certification and support for improved ‘speed to market' and bottom-line performance. The company has assembled a staff and management group with broad expertise in a wide range of manufacturing specialties. Problem-solving talent combined with proven products enables Methods Workshop to provide advanced technology opportunities for manufacturers, sourcing companies and “full package” providers. The company has become known as a ‘right-first-time' solution called upon time and time again.

Methods Workshop maintains constant contact with its system users around the world – ensuring its clients are provided the finest solution and one that meets their individual industry and product demands. The list of clients include apparel, furniture, footwear, boating, automotive, and other sewn products manufacturers worldwide.

All core products at Methods Workshop are developed around what is called MTM – Methods Time Measurement. What's produced is a logical, accurate and consistent evaluation of method and time. A part of that proven philosophy is, “what gets measured will get improved.” Either implemented as stand-alone or multi-user systems, all products use the latest networking technologies.

Methods Workshop's Quick TruCost product is designed to enhance speed to market and provide a pre-production tool for costing evaluation at the design stage. Using the common elements in a garment/product and multiplying them by a pre-determined numerical factor to calculate total manufacturing time is the key to this system . The total product can be costed in the time it usually takes to do one operation with elemental breakdowns, no loss of accuracy, a cost of under $10,000, and a quick 1-2 day installation – Quick TruCost is easily seen as the right choice. Its efficiency alone has made it a must have tool in the industry.

Its companion, Engineered TruCost, is a new Labor Costing tool producing ‘operation by operation' details for Incentive Rates and Production Quotas. An affordable option, companies are able to ‘benchmark' their manufacturing against global standards which allows for improved productivity and efficiency results.

A sister system to ETC, General Assembly Data (GAD) is designed for use by companies where assembly forms a major part of repetitive production. A unique solution in any assembly-based industry, Methods Workshop MTM, along with this tool, makes assembly of items easier and capable of coping with the range of operations involved in assembly. GAD has been successfully implemented in more than 15 assembly industries, including hardware, aviation, aerospace, warehousing and electro-mechanical engineering.

With these products at the forefront of solutions in the industry, Methods Workshop and the tools it provides looks to new solutions and evolving changes each day in order to stay ahead. Being a member company of [TC]² helps them deliver the right message to the right audience as well as learn of the latest improvement needs. Methods Workshop also partners with Gerber Technology's PDM system, LEADTEC's factory control system, and NGC's TPM system.

“In today's climate of more styles per volume of sales and fast turnaround requirements, it is imperative that actual costs be known prior to style acceptance for production. Time restrictions do not allow for conventional element by element, operation by operation costing in many, if not most, of those cases,” states Bob Craig, VP of Operations.

For more information on any of these products or to learn what Methods Workshop can do for your business, please visit www.methodsworkshop.com .

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Important Dates

February

March

April

For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com

Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors Blinco Systems Inc., Gerber Technology and Methods Workshop.

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A Look Ahead

February 14-17 MAGIC Marketplace, Las Vegas Convention Center www.magiconline.com

March 16-18 – Material World, Miami Beach Convention Center

View previous editions of this newsletter

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