TC2 - Newsletter

Pattern Development: February 7-9, 2006
This seminar is designed to provide essential information to the aspiring patternmaker and others involved in developing and merchandising a garment. Instructor Elizabeth White has a unique background in both the technical execution of pattern development and textile design. Elizabeth covers the crucial nuances entailed in the skillful art of pattern development.

Grading for Fit: April 5-7, 2006
In this seminar, the basic principles of fit and grading are detailed. Attendees should understand patternmaking, general grading principles, and basic CAD functions.

With each passing season it gets more and more challenging for small apparel manufacturers to compete with the powerhouses that deluge the market with low priced trendy apparel. But don’t predict their imminent demise just yet. Some forward thinking companies are carving out a creative niche — combining the comfort of a seamless knit garment with high performance, aesthetically beautiful yarns. Since its debut a decade ago, whole garment knitting has experienced somewhat of a pendulous popularity. But as the industry’s pace quickens and consumers’ demands heighten, the vast untapped potential of seamless apparel has become obvious.

The absence of bulky uncomfortable seams isn’t the only advantage whole garment knitting has over the traditional cut and sew process. You can also expect a substantial reduction in labor, quick product turn-around, more durable garments and reduction in fabric waste. In addition, minimizing the human element reduces the occurrence of errors, producing a nearly flawless garment. Add up these advantages and you’ve got a symbiotic heaven designed for both the manufacturer and consumer.

Continuous improvements in machine design have increased productivity, design capabilities, and improved fabric quality. As Jimmie Grow, Associate Director of Fabric Development at Cotton Incorporated, explains — unlike circular knitting, individual stitches can be controlled, allowing for increased design capabilities. Grow goes on to say that although there are circular knitting machines that have some of the design capabilities of the whole garment knitting machines, they are complicated to program and very expensive. At Cotton Incorporated the versatile Stoll CMS 340 TC Knit & Wear machine is primarily used to knit design-forward fabrics to be used as samples for the FABRICAST™ Collection. In addition, fabric can be knitted using just a few yarn packages, making the machine ideal for product development.

Fabric Samples from Cotton Incorporated’s 2004-2005 FABRICAST™ Collection
Left to Right: A Plated 3x3 Rib, Rib Blister, Rib Jersey Transfer, and Rib Blister
Courtesy of Cotton Incorporated

Emmett Hylton, Manager of Knitting Operations at Cotton Incorporated, explains that the transfer mechanism used to create shape can also be used to produce elegant knit constructions such as pointelles — a knit fabric with a pattern of holes or openings made by using transfer stitches.

From the 2005 FABRICAST™ Collection
From Left to Right: A Pointelle Rib, Pointelle, and Pointelle
Courtesy of Cotton Incorporated

A diversity of fabric constructions, from sheers to bulky knits, can be produced by taking needles out of action — a knitting technique known as half gauge. Machines come in gauges ranging from 5-18, allowing a wide variety of yarns to be used to produce interesting surface textures.


Sheer Cardigan Featuring Stainless Steel Yarns	Bulky Poncho Knitted in Half Gauge With Slubby Yarns

Courtesy of Shima Seiki

Intarsia carriers can be programmed to knit in designated areas only, as opposed to knitting the full width of the machine. Using intarsia carriers, multi-gauge looks and combinations of design structures can be incorporated within a garment.

Multi-gauge Within a Garment
Courtesy of Shima Seiki

Since acquiring a Shima Seiki WholeGarment SWG machine in 2003, the College of Textiles at NCSU in Raleigh, N.C. has been exploring some creative and unexpected knitting techniques. Under the direction of Nancy B. Powell, Associate Professor, Wonseok Choi and Diana Razulis have created a spectacular piece of apparel art. The piece, called the "Unfolding Evolution," is a cleverly made Shibori dyed seamless knitted garment constructed of Tencel Yarns. The piece was exhibited at the International Textile and Apparel Association Mounted Exhibition in Alexandria, Virginia, in November 2005. Don’t expect too many details on this process…Professor Powell and the students have a patent pending!

"Unfolding Evolution"
Courtesy of the College of Textiles NCSU

Garments such as lingerie and sportswear, in which comfort and performance are paramount, have particular potential in the seamless arena. A number of innovative apparel manufacturers have top-secret agendas concerning their new lines of seamless apparel…but one can guess — a seamless nightgown constructed with a “smart yarn” that releases nurturing ingredients such as vitamin E, aloe or a wonderful aroma.

With the ability to produce almost any shape seamlessly, the technology is popping up in medical and industrial applications, as well as the apparel industry. Today, whole garment knitting is an irresistible opportunity for the creative entrepreneur. Expect to see a lot of this exciting progressive technology.

Member Profile - G&K Services
Enhancing Image and Safety through Innovation

With more than 100 years of experience, G&K Services has a strong history of quality, service excellence, and innovation. As a small, family-owned dye house, founded in 1902 by Alexander and Morris Gross in Minneapolis and St. Paul, Minnesota, its meager beginnings have expanded tremendously and G&K is now a North American market leader in branded identity apparel programs and facility services.

Over the years, one thing has remained constant - their unmatched dedication to excellence in successfully enhancing their customers' image and safety in the workplace. G&K Services has more than 9,000 employees throughout North America today and processes more than 5 million garments each week from over 140 locations. Headquartered in the greater Minneapolis area, G&K serves a diverse base of over 160,000 customers throughout the United States and Canada, across all industries including resource-based businesses, manufacturing, high-tech, and public and private institutions.

G&K helps customers achieve their goals of enhanced company and brand image, identification, cleanliness, worker safety and security, product protection and safety, and improved employee morale. Their constant innovation has kept G&K helping these customers time and time again. In 1948 it was G&K offering "diaper service" for the beginning baby boom and in 1960 they responded to the automobile wave by opening "drive-in cleaners”. With constant innovation, customers recognize G&K as the preferred choice when seeking a quality uniform rental or direct purchase program, enhanced facility services, or cleanroom solutions. Their trust in G&K is the foundation of the success as G&K clearly operates its business using world-class standards. [TC]²’s partnership with G&K Services “helps us to remain competitive as a relatively small player, a number three player, in an equally innovative industry, “ adds Vice President of Marketing for G&K, Mr. Steve Wallace.

[TC]²
211 Gregson Drive
Cary , NC 27511
www.tc2.com
Phone: 919-380-2156
Fax: 919-380-2181
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