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Hot Topics! In Technical Design - |
December 9-10 |
This program has been designed to provide an introductory overview of basic technical design concepts with an emphasis on:
• Fabric characteristics and selection |
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This seminar will be presented at [TC]²’s facility - 5651 Dillard Drive, Cary, NC.
To register, contact Debra Gill at 919.653.3501, or use our contact form.
First Quarter 2010 Programs
Pattern Development January 12-14
Introduction to Apparel Manufacturing February 8-12
Grading for Fit March 16-18
For more information on these programs and other educational offerings, go to: http://www.tc2.com/index_education.html.

NCSU and [TC]² are launching their partnership for delivery of online learning programs with Textile Fundamentals eLearning Resource. This program was developed by experts at North Carolina State University's College of Textiles. The collection of 14 web-based textile education chapters is an excellent learning tool for industry newcomers and experienced professionals alike. The chapters are packed with state-of-the-art graphic animations and simulation videos and provide a comprehensive, in-depth study of textile processing from fiber formation to finishing and cover manufacturing aspects of the textile supply chain.
The program is self-paced through Internet access, and includes an optional test at the end of each chapter. Topics included are: Textile Fibers, Filament Yarns and Texturing, Spun Yarn Manufacturing, Warp Preparation, Weft Knitting, Warp Knitting, Weaving, Nonwovens, Fabric Preparation, Color and Color Properties, Dyestuffs and Dyestuff Applications, Printing, Chemical Finishing, and Mechanical Finishing.
Other training courses will be offered, both from the wealth of expertise at NCSU College of Textiles and [TC]²’s training resources on sewn products manufacturing. Follow this link for more information: http://www.tc2.com/products.html#onl.
By Kim Anderson, [TC]²
People tend to think of water use when they shower or do laundry; however, water is an essential ingredient in many processes. Water is used extensively throughout the textile and apparel supply chain. In fact—it takes approximately 713 gallons of water just to manufacture a T-shirt. [TC]² is researching the use of nano-colorants to reduce water usage in the digital printing process. Nano-colorants also provide an easier alternative to applying a printed design to a textile and can result in quicker turnaround than utilizing traditional dye based colorants.
Initial development in digital textile printing was primarily focused on dye-based colorants. To achieve adequate wash properties utilizing dyes, fabrics require pre- and post-treatments.
In the pre-treatment process, thickening agents and chemicals that aid in dye fixation and prevent wicking of the colorant during printing are applied to the fabric. Pre-treating the fabric has a number of disadvantages. Some of the disadvantages associated with dyes include the additional cost of the thickening agents and chemicals and the additional time required to apply the chemicals.
Fabrics must be post-treated to fix the dye into the fiber as well as remove unfixed dye. The fabric undergoes a steaming process to fix the dye. The fabric is then scoured to remove unfixed dye. Both the steaming and the scouring process entail the use of water. The fabric then must be dried, which involves additional energy and time.
Using dyes results in excellent print quality, intensity of color, good fastness and soft hand. However, pre- and post-treatments slow down the process, and the increased water and energy usage results in added cost and water waste.
Using pigments as a colorant in the printing process has some advantages over the use of dyes. Unlike dyes, pigments aren’t fiber specific, which means they have no affinity for specific fibers. Therefore, pigments can be used as a colorant on a wide range of fibers. In addition, pigments do not require pre- and post-treatments. In the pigment printing process, a binder is used to fix the colorant to the fiber’s surface. The binder is fixed to the fiber with a simple dry heat curing process. Pigment printing is therefore more economical and environmentally friendly than printing with dyes.
Early attempts to use pigments as a colorant in the digital printing process proved challenging. The pigments produced duller shades and a smaller range of colors than could be achieved with dyes. In addition, there was a tendency for nozzles to clog.
Recent innovations regarding pigments include the introduction of nano-colorants which are formulated at the nano-particle level. [TC]² researchers have been investigating nano-colorants provided by Yuhan Kimberly. Initial research has found that the nano-colorant pigments have a number of benefits including:
- improved jetting reliability
- increased color gamut
- soft fabric hand
- simplified processing methods
In February 2009, Yuhan Kimberly provided [TC]²’s research team with the most recent generation of technology. The DPInnovation’s Ripmaster software is being utilized to focus in on color and image management. This software provides the color management capabilities and raster image processing (RIP) for the Yuhan-Kimberly printing technology. These new technologies are allowing the research team to gain a better understanding of profile creation and the various print modes and software settings for color and image optimization. The research staff has been able to generate a series of palettes for spot color matching which are currently being used on both the nano-colorant and dye based printing systems at [TC]².
Traditional pigment textile printing comprises more than 50% of the total printed textile market. However, development of textile pigment colorants for digital printing has been challenging due to colorant stability and nozzle clogging issues. The [TC]² research team is on the cutting edge of nano-colorant pigments specifically designed for the digital printing industry and will be actively disseminating their findings.
References
Beth Kowitt. The Future of Water. Fortune, October 12.2009.
Kerry King, Manager of Product Development and Sustainability Initiatives,
Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation ([TC]²)
Samit Chevli. Selecting the right ink and fabric combination for digital printing: Making the chemistry work: Choose the right ink for your particular application. Fabric Graphics. January 2007.
By Arturo Rodriguez, [TC]² Latin America
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For its third edition, EXPOTEXTIL put on a supplier based show in Lima, Peru against all odds. To begin with, the global economic recession has hurt Peruvian apparel exports (mainly to the USA and neighboring countries in South America). There was some confusion when the show had planned to move into a brand new exhibition center that was not ready in time requiring relocation to the original spot and usage of a tent-like structure.
This year’s 2009 version was smaller (some 8,000 m² vs. the 10,000 in 2008) as well as less exhibitors participating. Total exhibitors were down to 146 from last year’s 170, from 12 countries in addition to Peru. There were some 18,000 visitors that jammed the aisles, packed the catwalks and listened to the conferences. In addition to local participants, countries like Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador and Venezuela had the largest representation.
The Peruvian textile/apparel chain is lively in spite of the economic downturn. In our booth, SPESA Expo 2010 was well represented by John Stern, President of Methods Workshop and myself. Peru’s export agency, PROMPERU, is developing plans for a country pavilion in the Supply Chain of the Americas area of the 2010 Atlanta show.

Ricardo Agama and Ysabel Segura of ADEX with Arturo Rodriguez, [TC]²
The academic part of the show was made up of 9 conferences, ranging from textile export guidelines to window display techniques for apparel as well as technical topics such as anti-yellowing techniques for textile processes. My contribution was with a presentation focusing on “Service, the Name of the Export Game” or in Spanish: “Servicio, El Nombre del Juego Exportador.”
What the client wants (and pays for) is service or as they put in Asia – “One Stop Sourcing.” Most clients are not looking for the lowest possible price, but unsurpassed service. In my presentation I discussed what world class brands and commercial chains are demanding of the world class full package apparel supplier.
Peru has these impressive statistics:
• In 2008 the Peruvian economy grew at a 10% rate and they now project that it will grow by 5% for 2010.
• In 2009, Peru will have a growth percentage of 2.2.
• Even so, manufacturing in Peru was down 7.45% by February 2009.
• Peruvian apparel and textile companies have seen their international arena grow through the use of their own brands and direct commercial infrastructure in Venezuela, Colombia, Chile and Ecuador.
• To Argentina and Brazil, they export under the full package mode.
• The FTA with the USA went into effect in February 2009.
The Peruvian textile/apparel chain is emerging as a more close knit community with individual companies more robust than before. As Estevan Daneliuc, GM for Topytop, stated, “we need to shed fat and become Lean.”

By Karen Davis, [TC]²
The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), based in Washington, DC, represents the entire textile industry including fibers to finished products, and machinery manufacturers to power suppliers. Its mission is to create powerful alliances and coalitions to advance the industry’s interests of the U.S. textile industry.
There are four separate councils that comprise the NCTO leadership structure, with each council representing a segment of the textile industry: fiber, fabric, supplier, and yarn. Each council elects its own officers who make up NCTO's Board of Directors.
As an advocacy organization, NCTO is uniting global resources from an array of associations and business groups that have a stake in the survival and prosperity of the U.S. textile industry. NCTO leverages these interests to pursue public policy reforms in Congress.
NCTO has created TexNet, a free resource, to provide awareness of issues coming before elected officials in Washington, DC that will have an impact on the industry. Membership in the National Council of Textile Organizations is not a requirement to receive news updates. TexNet will alert its subscribers of important legislative and regulatory actions that individuals may wish to respond to through their appropriate district representative or the Administration. To receive these updates and have an opportunity to comment on pending legislation, go to www.ncto.org and click on the TexNet logo or follow the link to the TexNet sign-up.
November
18-20 |
25th IAF World Apparel Convention, New Delhi. For information, go to www.iafnet.com. |
30-Dec 2. |
33rd CCAA Conference on the Caribbean and Central America - InterContinental Hotel, Miami, FL. For details, go to www.c-caa.org. |
December
9-10 |
Hot Topics! In Technical Design Program at [TC]². Click here for details. |
23-Jan.4 |
[TC]² closed for Holidays and Staff Vacation |
Save the date! |
Annual Meeting of [TC]² Members and Board of Directors |
April 13, 2010 |
at [TC]² Offices, Cary, NC – All member and associate member company representatives are invited to attend. |
For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com
Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors
Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Lawson, Lectra, Methods Workshop and Reach Technologies.
A Look Ahead in the Newsletter
SPESA Expo 2010 Updates
View previous editions of this newsletter
[TC]²
5651 Dillard Drive
Cary , NC 27518
www.tc2.com
Phone: 919-380-2156
Fax: 919-380-2181
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