[TC]² Bi-Weekly Technology Communicator

Seminar Offering at [TC]²

Master the basics of seam and stitch formation during this one-day program. The program covers both the appearance and performance aspects of seams and stitches. Learn how to achieve necessary quality levels to ensure customers’ expectations are met by using standard terminology to communicate. Understanding performance criteria by matching stitch and fabric compatibility is also covered. Don’t miss this opportunity to increase skill sets and knowledge on seam and stitch formation.

The seminar will be presented at [TC]²’s facility - 5651 Dillard Drive, Cary, NC.

To register, contact Debra Gill at 919.653.3501, or use our contact form.

For more information on other educational offerings, go to: http://www.tc2.com/what/seminars.html.

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Natural Dyes: Are They a Viable Alternative?

By Kim Anderson, [TC]²

For thousands of years natural dyes were the only effective way to impart color onto textiles. Throughout the 1800’s and into the 1900’s, a host of synthetic dyes became commercially available. Because of the growing importance of speed and reproducibility throughout the supply chain, as well as the standardization and fastness achievable with coal tar or petroleum-based dyes, the use of natural dyes quickly fell by the wayside. However, with the growing interest in eco-friendly apparel, one might wonder—are there any apparel companies pursuing this age old process and, if so, what kinds of challenges are they encountering?

In a search for naturally dyed apparel, a handful of companies can be found. However, after a few phone calls one company stands out—ASK Apparel. ASK Apparel not only offers a line of naturally dyed apparel but also can guarantee their customers a truly sustainable supply chain.

ASK Apparel, located in Nashville Tennessee, was founded by three sisters, Ali, Sarah, and Kate Bellos. The three have complementary backgrounds that have enabled them to pursue a truly unique business model. As Sarah explains, Ali’s background is in print making and art, whereas hers is in sustainable agriculture so “natural dyeing is a melding of the two worlds.” Sarah's twin sister Kate's background is in retail and marketing, which rounds out the trio’s expertise.

To ensure the highest quality, the Bellos sisters did extensive research and development for 1½ years before selling anything. Sarah explains that “with a variety of sources for natural dyes, including bark, clay, insects and plants, almost any color besides a fluorescent tint can be responsibly produced using natural dye stuff.”  They decided to focus in on a few dyes that would provide excellent aesthetics and performance. Their strategy was to develop dyestuff in the 3 primary colors—red, yellow and blue as well as brown. Once these were developed, they could produce a wide range of colors by combining dyes.

From the beginning the Bellos's had three main goals—create garments that were machine washable in cold water; make sure that the color was consistent throughout the garment and would last the life of the garment; and produce naturally dyed garments that would not bleed onto other garments in the washer. Ali says they have developed a multi-step dyeing process, including three preparatory steps before they even put any color onto the garment.

The Bellos's cultivate and utilize indigo as their main source for blue pigment, and a plant called madder is their source for red pigment. Through their research they found that yellow dyes tend to be less stable than blues and reds but they have found good results with marigold and osage orange. Ali explains that these specific natural dyes fall into what dyers call “the historical dyes of trade,” meaning these dyes have been cultivated and traded throughout the world because of their fastness. Ali goes on to say that these dyestuffs also were chosen for their vibrancy and reproducibility.

They grow or gather the marigold and osage orange locally. They are also investigating a yellow dyestuff called weld. Weld gives a slightly different yellow tint. Ali explains that it is rare to get a pure color with natural dyes. For example, yellow dyestuffs tend to be more of a bluish-yellow or a reddish-yellow. Weld produces a clear pure yellow. They are in the preliminary stages of cultivating weld and testing its usefulness on a commercial scale, with a small test plot this year to collect weld seed.

With the goal of "regionalizing the supply chain," they have been growing natural dyes for 3 years on a half acre plot outside of Nashville and wildcrafting, or gathering, many more dyestuffs. This year they formalized a partnership with regional organic farmers who are looking to diversify their crops. The Bellos's want to make sure that they have a reliable and ecologically sustainable way of getting dyestuff. Ali explains that just because something is naturally grown from a plant source, it doesn’t necessarily mean that it is inherently sustainable. They want to first and foremost be good stewards of the resources they utilize.

Even though communicating with multiple farms can be challenging, the business chooses to partner with multiple small farms rather than contracting with a large company that could grow all their dyes. Cultivation of the natural dye plants provides the small farms a healthy way to diversify. It gives them a value added crop that they can process and sell throughout the year as opposed to being limited to vegetable crops that are usually just harvested during the busy summer season. In addition, marigolds are a beneficial companion plant that repels insects and indigo can help to fix nitrogen in the soil. Other than fastness, vibrancy and reproducibility, these environmental benefits are another reason ASK Apparel likes to focus on these specific plants.

Since the Bellos's work with a lot of cotton, they need to use mordants. Mordants allow the fiber to become receptive to taking up the dye. They use alum—a popular and safe mordant. However, cotton isn’t necessarily amenable to taking up alum, so they often first soak the cotton in tannin. Sumac is their preferred source for tannin, which they can get locally. Soaking the cotton fiber causes it to be receptive to picking up the alum.

The first products offered by ASK Apparel were hand painted designs on shirts. These garments are one-of-a-kind and considered to be a specialty item. They have now included silkscreening and resist printing with natural dyes. Some examples are shown below.

Courtesy of ASK Apparel - http://www.askapparel.com

For the last year and a half, ASK Apparel has been offering “eco-dyeing services,” which involves dyeing whole garments with natural dyes. They can custom dye small orders for the customer—1 to 3 pieces as well as larger orders for the commercial client—up to a hundred pieces. Custom orders often include working with the customer to develop custom colors that are reproducible and fast. Turnaround for these orders is approximately 2-4 weeks.

Sarah explains that while they do try to minimize variability, there is an inherent beauty in the subtle variations of natural dyes. She goes on to say that natural dyes are not pure colors—there are very few pure reds or pure yellows or blues. She says, “this is why the colors harmonize with each other, because they all have small components of other colors within them.”

ASK Apparel's goal is to provide customers with safe and socially responsible products that are created to be uniquely beautiful with the highest artisan quality. They primarily sell their products throughout the Southeast and through their website. While working toward cultivating a resurgance in the natural dye industry, the sisters are not looking to grow at the cost of the health and integrity of their work. They seek to foster sustainability throughout their production processes for both the health of their customers and the health of the earth—as they put it, "to ask the right questions so that our customers can wear the right answers."

Sarah explains that whatever they do, they have a commitment to scale up in a sustainable and responsible way. She goes on to say that, “their customers can trust ASK Apparel’s supply chain and they really value that.” 

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Member Profile - Cotton Incorporated

By Karen Davis, [TC]²

Cotton Incorporated was established in 1970 as a national marketing and research effort to help combat erosion in cotton’s consumer market share due to the advancement of synthetic fibers in the marketplace. At that time, cotton products were reduced to three main categories: denim, t-shirts, and towels. Today, cotton can be found in most product categories for apparel and home textiles. 

In 2000, Cotton Incorporated moved into its 125,000 square foot state-of-the-art research and development center and world headquarters in Cary, North Carolina. This technologically advanced complex sets the standard for all facilities of its type in the textile industry.  

The Seal of Cotton trademark was introduced over 30 years ago, and has become a recognized symbol for cotton and natural comfort.  The Natural™ trademark was developed in 2007 to identify 100% cotton products and to promote cotton as a natural fiber.

Some of the company’s promotional activities for U.S. producers and importers of cotton include a website, www.thefabricofourlives.com, containing consumer information on such topics as home decorating tips, fabric care, fashion shopping trends, and how to use color in your wardrobe. A fashion fabric glossary defines terminology that is used to describe fabric or style characteristics. The readily-recognizable Cotton Characters, who have appeared in numerous print ads, were created by MTV’s animation department.  The models’ silicone bodies are molded around articulated steel frames that allow them to pose realistically—and to look natural in their designer clothes.

Cotton Incorporated is funded by cotton growers in the United States through per-bale assessments on producers and importers levied by the Cotton Board, which reports to the United States Department of Agriculture. Based in Memphis, Tennessee, the Cotton Board is the oversight and administrative arm of the Cotton Research & Promotion Program, representing U.S. Upland cotton.

During the company’s history, Cotton Incorporated has continued to advance cotton and its products through ongoing marketing and research and development programs.  By increasing production yields and reducing costs, improving fiber quality, creating new textile products, and implementing a highly successful marketing strategy, Cotton Incorporated ensures that upland cotton remains at the forefront with consumers, and that it will continue to be a dominant fiber in the world in the 21st Century.

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Apparel’s Tech Conference
The Apparel Industry’s Must-Attend Technology Event
November 11 - 12, 2009 | Fashion Institute of Technology | New York, NY

New in 2009 - Expanded Hours!

New in 2009 - All Educational Sessions To Include Case Studies!

Apparel's Tech Conference is an ideal environment for apparel brands, manufacturers and retailers to preview technology solutions and services from a select group of providers. Combining keynote presentations from industry thought-leaders with ongoing educational workshops and a Tabletop Exhibit area, the Conference provides convenient access to information and ideas designed to help you in your strategic technology decision-making.

Content focus includes: Design and Product Development, including PLM; Manufacturing; Information Technology; Sourcing, Logistics, Transportation; and Retail Intelligence. All of the 2009 concurrent educational sessions will include a case study component.

The Opening Keynote Session on November 11 will include recognition of Apparel's 2009 All-Stars. That same day, all Tech Conference attendees are invited to a Networking Reception immediately following the final sessions.

Attendance is complimentary for qualified apparel brands, manufacturers and retailers.

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Academic News

Oklahoma State University’s Apparel Design and Production Program Receives In-Kind Software Grant from Siemens PLM Software

Siemens PLM Software, a business unit of the Siemens Industry Automation Division and a leading global provider of product lifecycle management (PLM) software and services, today announced an in-kind software grant with a commercial value of nearly $20 million to the Apparel Design and Production program within the Department of Design, Housing & Merchandising at Oklahoma State University (OSU) to enrich their product development and merchandising curriculum. The in-kind software grant, the largest in the department’s history, will provide training for students preparing to enter the workforce.

The grant was presented to OSU during The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) event at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising (FIDM) in Los Angeles. AAFA is the national trade association representing apparel, footwear and other sewn products companies, and their suppliers, which compete in the global market.

The in-kind grant was made through the Siemens PLM Software Global Opportunities in Product Lifecycle Management, or GO PLM™, program and includes product development software, student/instructor training and specialized software certification programs.
Siemens PLM Software technology addresses the challenges faced by apparel and footwear manufacturers and retailers. Teamcenter® software, Siemens PLM Software’s industry-leading digital lifecycle management portfolio delivers a user-friendly solution that is ready to use “out-of-the-box” to help retailers and manufacturers increase speed-to-market and reduce costs by streamlining processes and workflow management; enhancing communication and collaboration; and increasing visibility on a global scale.

“Apparel and footwear manufacturers and retailers face the complex challenge of delivering the right styles to market at just the right time, and doing that many times per year,” said Dan Staresinic, senior director, consumer products, retail and life sciences, Siemens PLM Software. “It’s clear that today’s best students in top programs, like the program at OSU, benefit through opportunities to gain experience with technology that supports these objectives. This GO PLM grant will help students at OSU learn the tenets of good product development on the same PLM software technology that is used by industry leaders for on-trend, on-time execution.”

OSU Apparel Design and Production Program
Oklahoma State University’s Apparel Design and Production program curriculum has been approved by the AAFA Human Resource Leadership Council since 1997. For the 2008-2009 academic year there were 431 undergraduate and 36 graduate students in the department. An outgrowth of the department is the Institute for Protective Apparel Research and Technology (IPART). IPART provides employment opportunities for apparel design and production students to have real world product development experience while completing their degrees. IPART partners with government and industry to develop and evaluate sewn products.

GO PLM Program
Siemens PLM Software’s GO PLM™ initiative leads the industry in the commercial value of the in-kind grants it provides and brings together four complementary community involvement programs focused on academic partnership, regional productivity, youth and displaced worker development and the PACE (Partners for the Advancement of Collaborative Engineering Education) program. GO PLM provides PLM technology to more than one million students annually at nearly 10,300 global institutions, where it is used at every academic level – from grade schools to graduate engineering research programs. For more information on GO PLM and the partners and programs it supports visit www.siemens.com/partners/goplm.

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Important Dates

October

November

For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com

Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors
Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Lawson, Lectra, Methods Workshop and Reach Technologies.

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A Look Ahead in the Newsletter



Gerber User’s Conference Review
IFAI

View previous editions of this newsletter

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[TC]²
5651 Dillard Drive
Cary , NC 27518
www.tc2.com
Phone: 919-380-2156
Fax: 919-380-2181

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