[TC]² Bi-Weekly Technology Communicator

Sourcing at MAGIC
August 31- September 2, 2009

By Karen Davis, [TC]²

During the Las Vegas MAGIC event, [TC]²’s Will Duncan will be participating in a panel entitled “The Future of Sourcing” moderated by Steve Jesseph of WRAP, at 3 p.m. on August 31st. The panel members will examine the social, environmental, technical and political issues affecting apparel production. The session will then examine new and innovative "best practices" being used to create new industrial parks and supply chain options.

WRAP is hosting a Sourcing Pavilion at MAGIC which will incorporate eight WRAP-certified factories: Anvil Knitwear, Chih Dar Co.; Confecciones Mazara; Inetol Headwear; Kattan Group; Ningho Baicheng Garment Co.; Shenzhen WCX Garment Co.; and S.S. Fabrics.  The booth numbers are MA 33404 to MA 33413. Please plan to visit the WRAP Sourcing Pavilion while attending MAGIC this year.  

[TC]² is an authorized WRAP consultant trained to help factories prepare for the certification process or to provide guidance if the facility is required to take corrective actions to achieve certification.  For more information on becoming a WRAP-certified facility, visit www.wrapapparel.org.

top

Seminar Offerings at [TC]²

Still accepting registrations!

August and September Seminars

During this three day seminar, attendees will build piece-rates for several operations by analyzing video tapes and then applying time for the appropriate auxiliary factors.  Continued application of this knowledge and the data in the reference book will allow the determination of accurate costing long before production is placed on the manufacturing floor.

Pattern Development bridges the perceived chasm between design and manufacturing. Understanding core concepts and terms can greatly reduce sewing problems and ease the transition from the corporate fit image to garment sales. Attend this class to learn the driving forces even if automated systems are used to do the majority of the work.  

Learn introductory principles of fit, pattern development, and marker making. Hands-on activities include flat pattern manipulations and drafting.

[TC]²’s best attended in-house seminar, Intro to Apparel Manufacturing, offers an overview of the entire manufacturing process with numerous hands-on exercises. Topics covered include: textile fundamentals, fiber formation and fabric design, fabric characteristics, material utilization, spreading and cutting theories, and much more. Key apparel terms and concepts are featured, along with standard terminology for seam and stitch formations.

Learn basic principles of fit and grading. Hands-on projects include deriving grade rules and manual grading of three basic garments.

Basic stitch formation and seam constructions are described, and explanations for which stitch and seam type to use for specific products are outlined.

The seminars will be presented at [TC]²’s facility - 5651 Dillard Drive, Cary, NC.

For additional information on these programs or to register, contact Debra Gill at 919.653.3501, or use our contact form.

To download or print a copy of [TC]²’s 2009 seminar offerings, click here (pdf).

top

Natural Dyes

By Kim Anderson, [TC]²

People have relied on insects, leaves and roots of plants for thousands of years to impart color onto textiles. References regarding natural dyes are peppered throughout ancient history from the madder-dyed robes of King Tut to biblical references of scarlet linens dyed with insects. It wasn’t until William Henry Perkin serendipitously discovered a lavender dye artificially produced from a constituent of coal tar in 1856 that synthetic dyes began to replace natural dyestuffs.

Today, natural dyes have almost no economical importance and are used in limited quantities by craftsmen. However, with the consumer’s growing appetite for eco-friendly apparel, it might be prudent to check-out natural dyes.

NATURAL DYES
There are three primary sources for natural dyes—plants, animals and minerals. Regardless of the source, natural dyes can be broken down into two categories—substantive and adjective. Substantive dyes, also referred to as direct dyes, become chemically fixed to the fiber without the aid of any other chemicals or additives. Indigo and some lichens are substantive dyes. For “green” dyed garments it is preferable to use substantive natural dyes.

Adjective dyes, also referred to as mordant dyes, require an added substance known as a mordant to make the dyes colorfast. Most natural dyes are adjective dyes. The type of mordant used in the dyeing process affects the color produced.

Some of the natural dyes that have been extensively used throughout history and are still available today are discussed in the following text. The advantages and disadvantages of natural dyes will also be reviewed.

Indigo

Indigo is a blue dye derived from the leaves of a leguminous plant. Natural indigo is probably the oldest dye known to humans—the oldest fragments of cloth are dyed with it. The Romans used indigo to make an ink called indicum.  It is a dye known to all cultures of the world. Indigo was the most widely used dye in America during the 18th and 19th centuries.

Depending on the dyeing procedure, light blues to deep navy colors can be obtained. Of the natural dyes, indigo has some of the best fastness properties—and in fact it is the only natural blue dye of permanence. It was the original dye of the "Levi's" blue jeans—becoming the trademark color for durability. Indigo is insoluble in water. During the dyeing process it is made soluble. Once the fabric is dipped into the indigo dye bath, dye is deposited into the fibers. When the fabric is removed the air oxidizes the indigo, returning it to its original natural insoluble state—permanently locking it in to the fiber.

To read the entire article, go to the techexchange library.

top

User’s Group Webinar - August 18, 2009

By Karen Davis, [TC]²

The fifth annual SizeUSA User’s Group was opened to the public and presented in a webinar format. The two-hour program included the following presentations:

Su-Jeong Hwang Shin – Texas Tech University – Dr. Shin has been researching the U.S. men’s apparel industry. At $70 billion per year, it includes about $49 billion in men’s sportswear. In evaluating 34 body dimensions of the over 3600 men included in the SizeUSA database, Dr. Shin’s research concluded that 56% of the men in the survey would not fit into the standard regular sizing for men’s apparel. Her analysis separated men into four categories – slim; heavy inverted (athletic or big/tall); slant inverted (regular); and short, round top. 

David Bruner, [TC]² - presented [TC]²’s avatar engine. The avatar engine was created from statistical data from thousands of scans for accuracy using 3,000 automatic markers. A 3D template mesh is morphed to the subject’s scan to create the avatar, which is accurate within a few millimeters.  Weight loss or gain can also be predicted and visualized. Without the accessibility to a body scanner, avatars can be created using five basic measurement inputs (height, inseam, bust, waist and hip). A set of 3.2 million 3D human models that are statistically representative of the US population were announced as available using the Avatar Engine. The avatar creation engine is depicted at www.imagetwin.com. In 2010, avatars created from photos will be available using a new “3D scan from photo development.”

Nancy Schofield, Univ. of WI–Stout and Lynn Boorady, Univ. of MO-Columbia – explained testing assumptions for grading men’s shirts. Dr. Schofield provided a brief explanation of how to grade for sizes using Cardinal points and landmarks.  Men’s shirt grading was derived from Civil War data, and women’s grading originated in the 1940’s. The women’s apparel grade rules were based on the hour glass shape, which is only apropos in a minority of current body shapes. Grading is done proportionately across sizes, and as a person’s body shape changes, size proportions are no longer identical, and front and back measurements do not increase proportionately. Realistic grade rules are needed to address fit issues for a wider segment of the population. 

Susan Ashdown – Cornell University.  Dr. Ashdown discussed ways to teach students the power of population data when designing apparel.  Different body shapes can wear the same size, and posture variation affects fit and sizing. The SizeUSA data includes body depth variation information, which is also critical in garment design. 

David Bruner and Susan Simon of [TC]² showed virtual fashion solutions for 3D garment visualization including a new retail interface for the NX-16 3D body scanner. Rather than draping a garment on the subject, as is done in many CAD applications, the 3D garment can be morphed to fit the subject’s shape. With this application, style and color is visualized in just seconds after the 3D body scan is completed.  New features include garment and hair transparency, selection of hair styles and color, and skin tones can be chosen.

NX-16 3D body scans of subjects

3D garment visualization on scan subjects using Browzwear and OptiTex software

The process by which 3D content is loaded onto the [TC]² system from several applications was illustrated, including Browzwear, DAZ3D, Lectra, OptiTex, Poser, Tukatech, and Virtual Fashion Professional. Once loaded on the [TC]² system, the garments can be shown on any scan subject in real time (seconds). Six different female avatars and four male avatars from these vendors are incorporated into the software.  New features that will be offered are texturing the face from a photo, reposing the avatar for esthetics and technical design, and animating the avatar. Discussion and demonstration of new features still to come this year included animated avatars and examples of changing a standing avatar to a seated pose, as if driving a car, and an avatar walking. Scanner owners whose systems are under active maintenance programs for software and hardware will be receiving the new [TC]² Body Measurement System software release within the next week incorporating the new functionality and avatar creation capabilities. 

top

[TC]² Activity
COLOMBIAMODA 2009
July 28-30, 2009

By Arturo Rodriguez, [TC]² Latin America Industry Services

“ECO – TECH”

INEXMODA was launched in 1990 in Medellin, and at that time, it was considered daring to travel to this incredible city. ColombiaModa has come a long way from its beginnings.  For several years, it was the only fashion show in Colombia.

In its first edition 17 foreign buyers from 5 countries attended, and in this year’s edition, 1400 foreign buyers came as well as 600 media representatives from around the globe.

ColombiaModa is an expression of fashion that overtakes the city, the state, and the visitor with its vibrant fairgrounds and more than 23 fashion runways. Without a doubt, the strength of this show is its Colombian heritage…design-oriented. While other Latin American countries can boast of having a stronger textile/apparel sector, they lack the Colombian design touch that makes all the difference for creating value added products (apparel, shoes, leather goods, and accessories).

Proexport (Colombia’s export agency) estimates that some 65 million dollars worth of sales were finalized or initiated at this year’s show. Imagine this in a recession, for in 2008 that number was estimated at 45 million dollars.

This year’s main theme for the show was “Eco-Tech.” Throughout the 3 days, green, sustainable concepts were conveyed by means of displays, runways, conferences, giveaways…even with ivy-covered building columns throughout the show. INEXMODA certainly raised awareness towards the well-being of the earth and Mother Nature.

During my week long stay in Colombia’s second largest city, I met with a multitude of organizations, associations, companies and individuals to gather information  regarding the state of the textile/apparel industry in that country. The main South American export markets are to Venezuela and Ecuador.  Exports to the USA have been declining, due to the recession and also because the FTA has not been ratified.
The strategy going forward is to improve domestic markets, to better define niche market segments in the USA, fashion-oriented design services for specific target markets in Europe, and ramping up manufacturing capability to world class standards.

SPESA EXPO 2010, to be held May 18-20, 2010 in Atlanta, GA, was discussed during my numerous appointments to generate interest for a Colombian country pavilion in the Supply Chain of the Americas area.

Beatriz Arango, a fashion reporter for El Colombiano, Medellin’s leading newspaper, offered 5 reasons why one should fall in love with ColombiaModa:

• The young faces…at the runways.
• The movie forums…that round out the fashion scene.
• The leather goods section of the show...first time included.
• Trend anticipation…in regard to women’s cosmetics.
• The ECO trend…kind fashion toward the planet.

[TC]² is assisting the SPESA organization in expanding awareness of SPESA Expo 2010, and will be coordinating another Cool Zone similar to the space allocated for “cool” technologies that was showcased at the 2007 SPESA Expo in Miami.

top

Member Profile - G&K Services

By Karen Davis, [TC]²

G&K Services is a North American market leader in branded identity apparel programs and facility services. Founded in 1902 in Minnesota, today G&K Services has approximately 8,500 employees throughout North America and processes more than five million garments each week from over 170 locations.

Personalized, custom-embroidered logo apparel and other products, as well as special event items, are rented and sold to customers to enhance image and safety needs.  A wide selection of shirts, pants, jackets and other items are offered.  Workday wear provides a wide variety of styles and colors to match any workplace.  G&K has uniforms tailored to match the job requirements and reflect a positive company image.

Rental programs for workwear and uniforms are part of G&K’s offerings, providing personalized inventory for each employee, with weekly laundry, pick-up and delivery service.  G&K manages every aspect of the industrial laundry process in an effort to be environmentally responsible.  The company utilizes water reuse and recycling systems in several plants that use less water and fewer chemicals. In addition, when businesses use  a G&K towel rental program instead of purchasing paper products, it helps to reduce the amount of paper waste ending up in landfills.

G&K also offers innovative products to promote enhanced image and safety.  For example, as part of G&K’s ProSura Food Safety program, G&K offers BioSmart antimicrobial garments and towels developed by textile manufacturer Milliken & Company.  BioSmart is a patent-pending textile technology that binds chlorine molecules to fabric which kills germs and bacteria long after the fabric has been washed. G&K’s patented ProSura program, combined with BioSmart garments and towels mitigates the risk of cross-contamination, while protecting a company’s brand and reputation.

top

Important Dates

August

September

October

For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com

Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors
Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Lawson, Lectra, Methods Workshop and Reach Technologies.

top

A Look Ahead in the Newsletter



MAGIC Show

View previous editions of this newsletter

top

[TC]²
5651 Dillard Drive
Cary , NC 27518
www.tc2.com
Phone: 919-380-2156
Fax: 919-380-2181

Email our editor:

To subscribe to the newsfeed, copy and paste the following URL into your newsreader:
http://www.tc2.com/newsletter/newsfeed.xml