[TC]² Bi-Weekly Technology Communicator
AAFA’s 9th Annual Human Resource Leadership Summit to discuss “Leadership in Crisis”
FIT, New York
October 15, 2008
The keynote speaker for the 9th Annual AAFA Human Resource Leadership Summit will be Mr. Richard Sheirer, Vice President, Giuliani Partners LLC. Mr. Sheirer served 28 years with the New York City Fire Department and almost 4 years with the New York City Police Department before being appointed Director of Emergency Management by former Mayor of New York Rudy Giuliani. Some of his greatest achievements include The FIRECAP program, The FIREWORKS Kill project and, most significantly, the coordination of the largest response, recovery and cleanup effort in American history at the World Trade Center after the September 11, 2001 attack. His keynote topic is Leadership in Crisis.
Other featured topics include: Ten Challenges that Should Keep HR and Diversity Professionals Up at Night; Strategic Human Resource Initiatives: Hiring and Retention; Corporate Security and the Law; and Global Security and Intelligence.
Click here to review the agenda. To register, go to https://www.apparelandfootwear.org/events/register.asp?EVENT_ID=207
[TC]²’s Current Seminar Offerings
Intro to Apparel Manufacturing – September 22-26
[TC]²’s best attended in-house seminar, Intro to Apparel Manufacturing, offers an overview of the entire manufacturing process with numerous hands-on exercises. Topics covered include: textile fundamentals, fiber formation and fabric design, fabric characteristics, material utilization, spreading and cutting theories, and much more. Key apparel terms and concepts are featured, along with standard terminology for seam and stitch formations.
Grading for Fit – October 7-9
Proper grading ensures good fit of a manufactured garment. Learn basic principles of fit and grading. Hands-on projects include deriving grade rules and manual grading of three basic garments.
Seams and Stitches – The Technical Details – October 15
Master the basics of seam and stitch formation during this one-day program. The course covers both the appearance and performance aspects of seams and stitches and reveals parameters to achieve the desired quality levels. Learn how to meet performance criteria by matching stitch and fabric compatibility.
These seminars will be held at [TC]²’s facility at 5651 Dillard Drive, Cary, NC.
A complete description of these programs and others can be viewed at http://www.tc2.com/what/seminars.html
For additional information or to register, contact Debra Gill at 919.653.3501, or via our contact form.
A Reliable Sustainable Standard
By Kim Anderson, [TC]²
The use of chemicals in textile processing is inevitable—but it does not necessarily follow that a process which uses chemicals is harmful to the environment. People have been using chemicals for thousands of years for all kinds of things. In fact, one example of a chemical substance is pure water—harmless. However, many people still shutter when they hear that chemicals such as oxidizing agents, surfactants and acid dyes are used in textile processing. To put the consumer at ease the Oeko-Tex Certification System was developed in the early 1990’s.
Prior to the 1990’s, there wasn’t an industry standard that textile and apparel companies could use to determine if their product posed any threat to the environment. There were no labels that informed consumers if any potentially harmful substances were used in the manufacture of a product. With the growing interest in environmentally friendly practices, there is now a need to create a standard that both companies and consumers can rely on. For this reason the Austrian Textile Research Institute (ÖTI) and the German Hohenstein Research Institute jointly developed the Oeko-Tex Standard 100.
The testing and certification system of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 was designed to ensure that soft good products are safe. When a product has either an Oeko-Tex Standard label sewn-in or a hang tag, the consumer can be assured that the product has been evaluated and screened for any harmful substances and it will pose no risk to their health.
To ensure unbiased and reliable results, annual re-evaluations and scientific testing methods by independent testing institutes are utilized. Product certification can be completed in a matter of weeks.
The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 label is globally accepted. To date, over 70,000 Oeko-Tex 100 certificates have been issued to companies in over 80 countries. With an increased focus on textile sustainability and ecology in the USA, many products imported or exported by the American textile, apparel and retail industries are now certified with Oeko-Tex 100. Oeko-Tex is supporting leading American manufacturing companies, such as PolarTec, 3M, DuPont and Milliken as well as retailers, such as Pottery Barn, Target, Calvin Klein, Victoria’s Secret and others in their efforts to offer textile products that meet legal, environmental and health-related criteria.
Oeko-Tex also offers a more comprehensive label—The Oeko-Tex Standard 1000. The Oeko-Tex 1000 not only ensures that there are no harmful substances present but also that environmentally friendly production facilities have been used.
The Oeko-Tex Certification System is one of the most widespread certification programs that ensures that a textile product has been independently tested and found free of harmful substances. See www.oekotex.com for more information.
To read more articles related to Sustainability and Environment, visit our newsletter archive.
[TC]² Activity
Time Standards without Time Studies
By Gloria Carter, [TC]²
[TC]² has added a new seminar to the catalog: Time Standards Without Time Studies. Time study has been the most common and economical way to determine standard labor in a manufacturing environment but in today’s industry it is not always feasible.
Time study requires that the product be in production in order to be studied. Today we need accurate costs before production. Multiple time studies are required to insure that there are sufficient cycles to be statistically accurate. In today’s factory, often a style is in and out of production before this can be accomplished. Time studies require that the operator be trained on the operation in order to facilitate an accurate performance measurement. In many instances, the time frame that an operator is on the same style often does not permit sufficient advancement along the training curve.
Often, we only have a single garment from which to make our labor estimates and we may want to evaluate how the cost will change if we change certain features. For these reasons “Time Standards Without Time Studies” was added to our curriculum. The seminar features a wide variety of topics including: reverse engineering; the 100% performance metric; training curves; best practices in reducing labor cost; and an overview of standard labor based costing.
It has long been recognized that the method used has more of an effect on output than the speed. Students are introduced to the concept of motion analysis and measurement including categories of motion and time measurement units and predetermined time systems (PTS). Sewing Performance Data (SPD) by Don Stohlman is used as an inexpensive tool to apply PTS. Because Stohlman SPD is a Methods Time Measurement (MTM) based system, basic motions and their time values are reviewed so the analyst can recognize the motion patterns that accompany each table entry. Students establish labor minutes for operations using Stohlman and benchmark sewing formulas. In addition, personal, fatigue and delay allowance systems are reviewed and a cafeteria system used to select the appropriate allowances based on the specifics of the operation.
Stohlman SPD has been in existence since the 1940’s and is the least expensive predetermined time system available. The non-computer based SPD is presented to provide the student with an understanding of the entire process and to facilitate understanding the various computerized work measurement systems available to the industry. The features of two such systems are demonstrated during the seminar: Engineered Tru-Cost (Methods Workshop) and ModSew (Byte Systems). In addition to determining standard labor, computerized systems also provide features that house data bases for fabric, trim and other items so the total cost can be calculated. The user can choose plant efficiencies, currencies, overhead, etc. to arrive at the total manufactured cost.
In addition to the computer systems mentioned above, Quick Tru-cost (Methods Workshop) is also demonstrated. Quick Tru-cost determines a total standard labor value for the entire garment based on information entered into various worksheets. For example: distance sewn, number of seams, number of parts, etc. This system is an excellent tool for the preproduction determination of standard labor when only a bottom-line minute value is required.
We believe this seminar will better prepare the industry to determine accurate standard labor costs prior to manufacturing. Seminars can be presented at [TC]², at regional locations or on-site. [TC]² also provides contract costing services to companies who desire individual operation standards or total standard labor minute values.
For more information on the seminar content or product costing services, complete the [TC]² contact form.
The Industry Services Division of [TC]² provides consulting services in many areas of the industry around the globe. Often beginning with a Plant Assessment and/or a Business Process Analysis, the Industry Services team provides on-site training and development in Lean Practices and Organizational Culture, as well as Industrial Engineering. For further information on these and other valued services, please contact Will Duncan at (919) 653-3505.
Member Profile - Karla Colletto
By Karen Davis, [TC]²
Karla Colletto’s eponymous swimsuit line incorporates unique fabrics, whimsical cut-outs and unexpected details, with unmatched sophistication, style and fit. Its aquatic couture blends traditional tailoring with future-forward fabrics; a look that’s bold and alluring. Stunning, original suits replace the standard suit made from a traditional mold.
Luxurious Italian micro-fibers in rich colors and striking patterns are at the heart of each Karla Colletto suit. With a striking yet utterly feminine look, Karla Colletto pieces embody and transcend the quintessential swimsuit.
In-house manufacturing ensures the intricate dressmaker-like quality that gives these pieces a highly-developed sense of style.
Colletto is inspired by technological advances, computer-generated imaging and the endless possibilities of hyper-innovative textiles. Superior synthetic materials are paired with advanced manufacturing techniques. “I’m consistently challenged by technology,” says Karla Colletto. “The fact that I can create a new garment based on recent innovations is truly rewarding.”
The creative product line has been recognized and featured in fashion media icons including Vogue, Glamour, In-Style, and Oprah magazines, as well as The New York Times, Sports Illustrated, WWD Swim and Fitness publications.
Karla Colletto, educated in New England, began her career working on custom bridal gowns and sportswear pieces. After enlisting Lisa Rovan as a business partner, the Karla Colletto Company honed in on the then-quiet world of swimwear. Understanding how a woman needed to fit in something so revealing and still feel and look great provided the company with a platform to expand and grow its business. Swim suits are available online and through a number of upscale boutiques and stores across the U.S. and internationally.
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Important Dates
September
22-26 |
Introduction to Apparel Manufacturing, Seminar at [TC]². To register or for details, click here. |
October
3-4 |
SEAMS Fall Meeting at Clemson Apparel Research, SC, for information www.seams.org. |
7-9 |
Grading for Fit, Seminar at [TC]². To register or for details click here. |
15 |
Seams and Stitches – The Technical Details, Seminar at [TC]². To register or for details, click here. |
15-17 |
AAFA Human Resources Leadership Council Summit and Committee Meeting, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York. For information or to register, visit www.apparelandfootwear.org. |
21 |
Fall [TC]² Board of Directors Meeting |
21-23 |
Industrial Fabrics Association International Expo, Charlotte, NC. for information www.ifai.org. |
27-29 |
AAFA Supply Chain Leadership Committee meeting, Spartanburg, SC for information www.apparelandfootwear.org. |
November
5-6 |
Ensuring Quality by Integrating Sewability Factors and Quality Analysis Techniques, Seminar at [TC]². To register or for details, click here. |
12 |
Accurate Costing to Build a Profitable Supply Chain, Seminar at [TC]². To register or for details, click here. |
For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com
Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors
Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Lawson, Lectra, Methods Workshop and Reach Technologies.
A Look Ahead in the Newsletter
SEAMS Fall Meeting
View previous editions of this newsletter
[TC]²
5651 Dillard Drive
Cary , NC 27518
www.tc2.com
Phone: 919-380-2156
Fax: 919-380-2181
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