[TC]² Bi-Weekly Technology Communicator
Apparel Quality
By Kim Anderson, [TC]²
As Brad Beal, Senior Vice President of Manufacturing and Operations for Jockey International, succinctly puts it—we no longer see our supplier at church on Sunday. Today, yarn, fabric, accessories and contract labor is often supplied by a remote source and sometimes multiple remote sources. Even when incoming materials are monitored, quality issues can arise—rendering the product to the seconds bin or worse—the trash. But the worse case scenario is that the product’s performance occurs very late in the game—while in the customer’s hands. Like a bad meal, the customer will probably not be back for more.
It is becoming paramount that textile and apparel professionals have the ability to identify quality issues at all stages of the product’s manufacturing process. Once identified, the problem needs to be corrected. [TC]² is addressing these pressing industry issues by offering a seminar titled Ensuring Quality. For details read the seminar offering in this newsletter or go to http://www.tc2.com/what/seminars.html.
May Seminar Offering at [TC]²
Seats Still Available!
May 21-22 – Ensuring Quality Products by Integrating Sewability Factors and Quality Anaylsis Techniques
The desired end results of garment manufacturing are acceptable appearance and durability. Many facets of each of these aspects are directly related to the combination of appropriate fabric pieces cut from correctly designed patterns, finally assembled to specification using the correct seams and stitches. The techniques used to identify and correct problems throughout the process are of equal importance.
This seminar will be presented at [TC]²’s new facility at 5651 Dillard Drive, Cary, NC.
For additional information or to register, contact Elizabeth Salisbury at 919.653.3507, or use this contact form.
To download or print a copy of [TC]²’s seminar offerings for 2008, click here (pdf).
Innovations in Protein Fibers with a Sustainable Slant
By Kim Anderson, [TC]²
The first documented attempt to produce synthetic fibers was in the 1600’s when the English naturalist, Robert Hooke, theorized that artificial filaments might be produced in a similar way that silkworms secreted silk. It took more than two centuries for Hooke’s theory to come to fruition. When rayon, dubbed artificial silk, reached commercial scale production in 1910, a host of new fiber developments for apparel followed including acetate, nylon, acrylic and polyester. After the flurry of successful fiber innovations during the first half of the 20th century, a relatively quiet time followed. Today, there is once again an upsurge of activity in the development of new fibers for apparel.
Wheat gluten, the protein that gives bagels their characteristic chewiness, has now been successfully transformed into a textile fiber by researchers at the University of Nebraska. In the 1930’s and 40’s there were a number of attempts to use regenerated plant proteins, technically classified as “azlons” for natural alternatives to wool. Common starting materials included wheat, zein—a protein found in maize, soybeans, ground peanuts— and milk proteins also known as casein. Because of the relatively high cost, poor fabric properties and use of toxic chemicals such as formaldehyde in the process, research was terminated.
The recent increase in the use of cereal grains for biofuels and other industrial applications has led to an abundant supply of azlon byproducts. The ready supply of these materials has reignited textile researcher’s interest.
Researchers at the University of Nebraska dissolved wheat gluten in a urea and sodium-sulfite solution, and then allowed the mixture to stand at a temperature of about 150°C for several days. The mixture was then extruded through a hypodermic needle into a bath of sodium sulfite and sulfuric acid, which served to coagulate the protein into strands. The fibers were further drawn, dried and annealed at about 130°C.
Extremely fine fibers can be produced. Fibers made from wheat gluten can be used alone or blended with other fibers. The softness, stiffness and flexibility of the fibers are similar to wool and have the desirable characteristics of wool such as warmth, high extensibility, soft hand and attractive appearance. The researchers found that wheat gluten fibers have a resistance to breaking that was about three-quarters that of wool, but higher than fibers made from soy and corn protein.
Other pros to the new fiber are—there is an abundant worldwide supply; it is a renewable resource; and it cost less than 50 cents per pound—at least one-tenth the cost of wool.
Today, the annual world fiber market is approximately 67 million tons. Protein fibers including wool and silk account for about 2.3 million of the total. Wool sells for 5-8 dollars per pound and silk sells for 10-14 dollars per pound. These figures indicate that there is an opportunity for the sale of high-end apparel products constructed with protein fibers—some of which will most likely be made from wheat gluten.
References:
Narendra Reddy and Yiqi Yang. Novel Protein Fibers from Wheat Gluten. Biomacromolecules, 2007.
Trends in U.S. Textiles and Clothing Imports. Textile Outlook International, March-April 2007.
http://www.fibersource.com/f-tutor/history.htm
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/02/06/science/06observ.html
[TC]² Activity
PeruModa 2008 - April 23 – 25, 2008
By Arturo Rodríguez, [TC]²’s Latin America Manager
As a direct result of having done a LEAN workshop for ADEX in Lima in the fall of 2007, PROMPERU, organizers of PeruModa, extended an invitation to [TC]² to speak at their 2008 event.
LEAN is Performance without Waste in its purest expression, and is what [TC]² helps companies to achieve; ADEX is the Peruvian Association of Exporters; and PROMPERU is Peru’s governmental agency in charge of promoting exports in the apparel/textile sector as well as in others. PeruModa 2008 was the 11th edition of Peru’s premier International Textile, Apparel, Footwear and Accessories event, held in the City of the Kings, Lima, Peru.
Ivan Viera, WRAP consultant, and I traveled to South America’s third largest country to attended the three day show, held in the Jockey Club section of that sprawling metropolis of approximately 8 million persons.
Peru, the home of some 30 million Peruanos or Peruvians, is world renowned for its Incan legacy–no wonder Machu Picchu has recently been declared one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. Peru and its South American neighboring countries make up what is known as the Andean region (named after the famous mountain range that stretches from the northern part of Colombia to the southern tip of Chile) has a Pacific coast region, its Andean highlands (which Arequipa is part of) and a verdant Amazon basin. The Peruvian Andes has the most beautiful mountains of the continent and is home to millions of highland Indians that still speak the ancient tongue of Quechua or Aymara and maintain a traditional way of life. More than half of the population in Peru is native Indian, of Inca descent.
PeruModa is the main annual event of the Peruvian fashion industry. It is considered one of the most important events in Latin America, showing the best of the Peruvian export offerings in apparel, footwear, accessories and jewelry, plus an area of services that included machinery, trims, textiles and other related supplies to the industry. In this 11th edition, PeruModa was set up over 13,500 square meters, had approximately 400 exhibitors, was visited by some 7,000 persons and held 16 different conferences with more than 2000 attendees. The event provided a direct link between Peruvian companies with potential clients and served as a meeting place for renowned local companies and professionals related to trade and fashion.
The Peruvian industry is a result of a 3000 year textile tradition that grows with time and stands out for its excellent quality and design. Most of the top 50 Peruvian apparel companies are vertically integrated and possess "full package" service. The quality of the materials, the excellent tailoring and finish, the short delivery lead times, and also the fulfillment of the rigorous technical standards and social responsibility along with an approved–yet not implemented-FTA with the U.S., have made Peru the “hot” spot of the apparel industry in South America. With over 15,000 companies (mostly small and medium) and its uniform yarn, which has the brightness and softness of Pima cotton, give birth to excellent garments that can be seen at the most exclusive stores of the world. A mention apart is its camelid fibers, which include alpaca, llama and camel, and is very light with high thermal effectiveness that makes it a coveted resource for the textile industry and an additional motivation for creativity and good design.
[TC]² was present in booth # 311 and in 3 of the 16 conferences. Ivan Viera gave a superb presentation on Social Responsibility, highlighting that if Peru wanted to be an apparel provider to the U.S. market, social matters must be addressed to conform to international standards. ADEX is very interested in doing a seminar on WRAP certification for its member companies.
“The Value of Speed” and “It’s All about Service” were the titles of the two conferences that I presented. The first presentation centered on the why, where, who, and what of getting the product to the customer in a fast manner, and on the last day of the show, I gave an overall view of what it takes to obtain and deliver world class service to customers…a LEAN review.
At [TC]² we feel honored to have been part of PeruModa 2008 and look forward to many projects in the land of Incas.
The “Cool Zone” Goes to “Coolombia” with American & Efird and Schmetz
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By Karen Davis, [TC]²
At Colombiatex de las Americas in Medellín, Colombia this past January, [TC]² and SPESA partnered to present a Cool Zone, similar to the premier exhibit at the May 2007 SPESA EXPO in Miami. American & Efird and Schmetz were exhibit sponsors.
American & Efird A&E manufactures and distributes premium industrial and embroidery threads on a global basis, and uses only the finest grades of cotton, synthetic staple fibers and filaments for its products. Finished thread is tested repeatedly to assess its strength and sewability. A&E thread and yarn is used for apparel, automotive, upholstered furniture, home furnishings, footwear, bedding and mattresses, and other sewn products. In addition to thread and yarn, A&E produces a line of knitted elastics and distributes various sewing supplies.
Since its inception in the 1890's, A&E has greatly expanded its facilities and has maintained pace with technological improvements. A&E was the first textile company in North Carolina to match colors by digital computer, automate the doffing system on spinning frames, computerize their dye machines, and build a mercerizing plant.
Schmetz Utilizing its two centuries of experience, working relationships with research institutions around the world, and the latest measuring instruments, Ferd. Schmetz GmbH strives to offer every customer the best needle with the best service on the most economical terms. Its Application Team assists in identifying the best needle product to meet specifications, and will develop custom-made products or modify existing needles to meet requirements.
With company headquarters in Germany, Schmetz maintains branch offices and dealers worldwide for support and rapid availability of its product line.
SizeUSA User Group Meeting
“Advancing Technologies and Next Survey”
June 18, 2008
By Jim Lovejoy, [TC]²
The SizeUSA User Group and Scanner Owners meeting will be held at [TC]² (5651 Dillard Drive, Cary, NC) on June 18, 2008, with users sharing some of the research and uses of the sizing information. If you would like to present research findings or project highlights on work conducted in the past year, please submit a brief description of the proposed program content. Some of the topics to be covered include:
• 3D body scanning session update with new developments |
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• 3D Avatar creation from 3D body scan and use with |
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- 3D apparel applications |
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- Computer Graphics and Animation Programs |
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- Medical Evaluation and Health and Wellness Programs |
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• Manual Landmarking and measurement techniques with new NX-16 true texture capability for anthropometric measuring |
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• Automatic 3D scan measurement refreshers and overview of new measures |
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• Hosiery Sizing Breakthrough using Volume Data |
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• The Next Survey 2010 Scope Discussion |
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The combined one day program is open to SizeUSA license holders, [TC]² 3D body scanner owners and [TC]² scanner distributors. Registration fees for attendees are $195 for SizeUSA license holders/scanner owners and $295 for non-license holders. A dinner will be held the evening of June 17th for attendees – more details to follow.
Accommodations are available at the Holiday Inn and Suites, 5630 Dillard Dr., Cary, NC ph. 919.852.1220. Ask for the [TC]² Group rate of $95/night. This hotel is across the street from [TC]²’s new location.
The meeting is open to all in the industry. To register, or for more information, please complete the contact form.
[TC]² and AATCC Present
Innovative Textile Printing: Green & Global
September 17-19, 2008
Sheraton Imperial Hotel, RTP
Raleigh/Durham, North Carolina
This educational symposium will highlight innovative approaches for textile printing and provide insight into the development and production of textile prints within the global supply chain. Digital textile printing will be highlighted as both an established solution for product development and an emerging opportunity for production printing of yard goods as well as finished garments. The symposium will also address the issue of sustainability and feature information regarding the need to develop printed textile products with environmental considerations in mind.
On September 19th, participants will have the opportunity to visit Cotton Incorporated for a tour of their digital print and textile processing areas. The tour will then proceed to [TC]², where visitors will gain insight into 3D technologies for product development and the integration of digital printing into the sewn product manufacturing environment.
For more information, go to www.aatcc.org.
Textile & Sewn Products Industry Week 2010
Launched with Powerful Co-Location of Key Established Trade Events
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By Karen Davis, [TC]²
The organizers of the three key industry trade shows in the Americas – ATME-I/MEGATEX, an exhibition for textile machinery; SPESA Expo, a full range of equipment, technology, and services for all segments of the global sewn products industry; and Techtextil North America, an exhibition for high performance technical textiles and non-wovens – have jointly announced that they have reached a landmark agreement to co-locate and align their trade shows at the Georgia World Congress Center, Atlanta, GA on May 18-20, 2010.
The three shows will take place in adjacent halls during the same dates, providing tremendous value for textile and sewn products industry professionals at all levels of the textile and sewn products manufacturing and application supply chains. This new event will create a truly “must attend” industry event for the Americas in 2010.
The co-location and alignment means that attendees will be able to move freely between the individual shows and benefit from the industry-leading educational and networking seminars and special events all in the same venue.
To learn about these exhibitions, visit www.atme-i2010.com, www.spesa.org, or www.techtextilNA.com.
Important Dates
May
21-22 |
Ensuring Quality Products by Integrating Sewability Factors, Seminar at [TC]². To register or for details, click here. |
June
3-5 |
Pattern, Grading and Marker Development, Seminar at [TC]². To register or for details, click here. |
12 |
Fast Fashion vs. Speed to Market, Seminar at [TC]². To register or for details, click here. |
18 |
SizeUSA User Meeting and Advancing Technologies. For information, click here. |
For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com
Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors
Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Lawson, Lectra, Methods Workshop and Reach Technologies.
A Look Ahead in the Newsletter
Apparel Sourcing Show in Guatemala
View previous editions of this newsletter
[TC]²
5651 Dillard Drive
Cary , NC 27518
www.tc2.com
Phone: 919-380-2156
Fax: 919-380-2181
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