[TC]² Bi-Weekly Technology Communicator
May Seminar Offering at [TC]²
Seats Still Available!
May 21-22 – Ensuring Quality Products by Integrating Sewability Factors and Quality Anaylsis Techniques
The desired end results of garment manufacturing are acceptable appearance and durability. Many facets of each of these aspects are directly related to the combination of appropriate fabric pieces cut from correctly designed patterns, finally assembled to specification using the correct seams and stitches. The techniques used to identify and correct problems throughout the process are of equal importance.
This seminar will be presented at [TC]²’s new facility at 5651 Dillard Drive, Cary, NC.
For additional information or to register, contact Elizabeth Salisbury at 919.653.3507, or use this contact form.
To download or print a copy of [TC]²’s seminar offerings for 2008, click here (pdf).
Import Trends in the U.S. Textile and Apparel Industries
By Kim Anderson, [TC]²
With only one exception— when textile and apparel imports fell by 2.0% in 2001, imports have risen steadily since 1989—culminating in a grand total value growth of 249%. However, recent data shows that U.S. textile and apparel import growth is gradually slowing. Many industry professionals are hoping that this trend will give domestic producers some reprieve.
SOME RECENT DATA
Volume growth of textile and apparel imports has gradually decelerated since it peaked in 2002 with a 16.7% rise from the previous year. In 2005, volume growth was calculated to be 8.3%. In 2006, volume growth fell to 2.6%. The growth rate of imports in 2006 was the fourth slowest increase rate recorded since 1983. Value growth of textile and apparel imports is also showing a gradual decline. Between 2005 and 2006, U.S. imports in textiles and clothing rose from 89.2 billion dollars to 93.3 billion dollars, representing an increase of 4.6% in value growth, which was down from the previous year where there was a 7.1% growth.
A comparison between value growth (4.6%) and volume growth (2.6%) for 2006, illustrates that the average import price increased. Prior to 2006, the average import price for textiles and apparel had fallen for nine consecutive years. This represents a divergence from previous years—between 1996 and 2005 the average import price decreased by 27.4%, from 2.41 dollars per square meter to 1.75 dollars per square meter.
There is a direct correlation between the international perceived health of the U.S. economy and U.S. import patterns. This phenomenon can be observed by looking at import data collected during the U.S. recession in the early 1990’s. In 1990, the volume of textile and apparel imports rose by 0.4%. As the economy recovered, import growth accelerated—as indicated by a 13.4% import growth in 1992; a 9.1% import growth in 1993; and a 9.0% growth in 1994. In 1995, growth dropped to 6.0%, followed by a 4.1% drop in 1996. As the U.S. economy made significant recovery, imports surged to 20.1% in 1997—the fastest growth since 1986 when imports peaked at 20.8%.
U.S. imports are categorized as yarn, fabric, made-up textiles and apparel. Made-up textiles are products such as blankets, sheets, towels and curtains. See Charts One-Five for a break-down of the volume growth of imports between 1982-2006.
CHART ONE
To read this article in its entirety, click here.
[TC]² Activity
FESPA 2008 Digital Textile Conference
By Kerry Maguire King, [TC]²
Mike Fralix, President and CEO and Kerry King, Manager of Digital Print Services of [TC]² recently traveled to Geneva, Switzerland to attend the FESPA 2008 Digital Printing Europe Trade Show. FESPA is a federation of trade association and an organizer of events that support the screen printing and digital printing industries in Europe and around the world. The FESPA Digital Printing Show is a pan-European event that focuses attention on emerging digital print technologies for signage and graphics, textiles, white goods, glass, ceramics, electronics and home furnishings.
This year, event organizers provided a pre-show conference devoted to digital printing of textiles. While the trade show provided our team with a valuable opportunity to research emerging technologies for digital textile applications, the conference provided an equally valuable chance to touch base with our technology contacts and learn more about the latest developments in printhead technology, printer hardware, ink chemistry and technology applications.
On the technology end, conference highlights included a presentation from Osiris Digital Prints. Rob Morskate introduced Osiris’ superfast Isis machine that has been developed as a competitive technology for screen printing. This machine harnesses continuous inkjet technology from printhead manufacturer, Imaje, and offers print rates approaching 30 linear meters per minute. Osiris anticipates the installation of their first machine at a European fashion printer during May of this year.
Additional technology highlights included a presentation by Mike Willis of Pivotal Resources, a consulting agency for the digital print industry. Willis reviewed the latest advances in printhead manufacturing that involves the use of etched silicon to form the ink channel structures in printheads. This technique is providing for increases in resolution and print speeds. He also emphasized the development of ‘fixed arrays’ of printheads that enable improvements in reliability and speed over technologies engineered to ‘scan’ or ‘traverse’ back and forth over the substrate. In closing, Willis highlighted the ‘Silverbrook Memjet’ thermal technology and Kodak’s continuous ‘Stream’ technologies. Pivotal Resources considers these introductions to be potentially disruptive to the direction for development of digital print systems.
In the ink chemistry area, Mickael Mheidle from Sawgrass Europe provided an overview of their newly introduced M series of modified pigment inks. These colorants have been developed for both textile and non-textile applications. This chemistry incorporates a reactive component within the ink that eliminates the need for the binder system that is typical required for bonding of the pigment chemistry. According to Mheidle, print characteristics are improved by the elimination of the binder chemistry, which typically has an impact on fabric hand. He also notes excellent adhesion to a wide variety of substrates and high physical and chemical stability that supports reliable jetting characteristics.
For the design community, one of the most interesting presentations was provided by Simon Beale, who discussed the use of digital printing by dress designer, Sarah Arnett. Arnett’s current offerings can be viewed on the company’s website at http://www.saraharnett.co.uk/ . The fabrics for the collection take full advantage of the imaging and engineering capabilities that digital printing offers and her work has been noted in Vogue and Elle magazines. She has recently expanded her efforts in the area of Bridal and is demonstrating innovative approaches to incorporating digital imaging into her gowns.
Carole Porzycki of Affaire Personnelle also provided a presentation about the use of digital printing for apparel. Affaire Personnelle is a French company that offers a selection of products such as t-shirts, handbags, and jewelry that can be personalized through the use of digital printing. Customers visit the company website to view the range of products available and are then able to select a theme or layout and provide a photograph that can be incorporated into the imagery. Affaire Personnelle uses a range of methods to produce their products including digital sublimation. Visit their website at http://www.affairepersonnelle.com/ to learn more about this company.
These are only a few highlights from the conference. Contact Kerry King at [TC]² to learn more about the information presented. Also watch upcoming newsletters for additional reports from FESPA 2008 and read more about the technologies showcased during the trade show portion of the event.
[TC]² Activity
SEAMS/SPESA Joint Spring Meeting
By Jim Lovejoy, [TC]²
Myrtle Beach, South Carolina was the scene of the first joint networking conference of SEAMS, The National Association of the Sewn Products Industry, and SPESA, the Sewn Products Equipment & Suppliers of the Americas. Over a hundred attendees heard speakers on effective communications, global trade data, and email marketing techniques. A panel of business owners discussed the factors that have helped them be successful over the past several years. A special presentation on “Becoming Stress Hardy” by Marion Kay included measuring your vulnerability to stress, defining your stressors and five points on how to cope with stress: 1) Be ready physically, 2) Be ready mentally, 3) Fight or flight and flight is OK, 4) Communicate assertively-say no and mean it, 5) Reorganize your time.
Sarah Friedman, Executive Director of SEAMS, said “Joining with the SPESA organization invigorated the meeting with the additional dimension added to the networking with our members.” Dave Gardner, Managing Director of SPESA, stated “We were impressed with the group’s energy and the reported resurgence of business results for the U.S. manufacturers and contractors.
The “Cool Zone” Goes to “Coolombia” with Audaces
By Karen Davis, [TC]²
At Colombiatex de las Americas in Medellín, Colombia this past January, [TC]² and SPESA partnered to present a Cool Zone, similar to the premier exhibit at the 2007 SPESA EXPO in Miami last May. Audaces demonstrated Digiflash, its software product that digitizes patterns using digital photographs, making a camera support, digitizing table or any other equipment unnecessary.
Possible problems such as distance, framing, perspective or photo distortion can be corrected by the system. Using artificial intelligence, the software generates a digital reproduction by automatically detecting the contours and control points.
The principal advantage of Audaces Digiflash is the precision and time savings, since it is possible to digitize a set of patterns all at once, increasing productivity.
Audaces Automação, located in Florianópolis, Brazil, is a company that develops technology solutions for automation of productive processes. Operating in the market since 1992, the company exports its products around the world and has clients in all of Latin America, Europe, Africa and Asia.
In addition to undertaking technology solutions for the creation and production sectors of companies and for product management, the company also operates in the hardware segment. Audaces is the only Latin American producer of large format ink jet printers (plotters) for the apparel industry.
The Cool Zone concept was introduced by [TC]² to showcase leading edge technologies that are in support of a totally digital supply chain.
SPESA is a leading trade association devoted to the advancement of the suppliers of sewn products machinery, ancillary equipment, parts, services, technology, and supply chain solutions for the global sewn products industry.
[TC]² and AATCC Present
Innovative Textile Printing: Green & Global
September 17-19, 2008
Sheraton Imperial Hotel, RTP
Raleigh/Durham, North Carolina
This educational symposium will highlight innovative approaches for textile printing and provide insight into the development and production of textile prints within the global supply chain. Digital textile printing will be highlighted as both an established solution for product development and an emerging opportunity for production printing of yard goods as well as finished garments. The symposium will also address the issue of sustainability and feature information regarding the need to develop printed textile products with environmental considerations in mind.
On September 19th, participants will have the opportunity to visit Cotton Incorporated for a tour of their digital print and textile processing areas. The tour will then proceed to [TC]², where visitors will gain insight into 3D technologies for product development and the integration of digital printing into the sewn product manufacturing environment.
For more information, go to www.aatcc.org.
Important Dates
May
13-15 |
Apparel Sourcing Show, Guatemala. For information, visit www.apparelexpo.com. |
13-16 |
JIAM, Singapore. For details, go to www.jiam2008.com. |
21-22 |
Ensuring Quality Products by Integrating Sewability Factors, Seminar at [TC]². To register or for details, click here. |
June
3-5 |
Pattern, Grading and Marker Development, Seminar at [TC]². To register or for details, click here. |
12 |
Fast Fashion vs. Speed to Market, Seminar at [TC]². To register or for details, click here. |
17 |
3D Body Scanning Software Applications, Seminar at [TC]². To register or for details, click here. |
18 |
SizeUSA User Group Meeting. For information, click here. |
For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com
Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors
Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Lawson, Lectra, Methods Workshop and Reach Technologies.
A Look Ahead in the Newsletter
Apparel Sourcing Show in Guatemala
Peru MODA
View previous editions of this newsletter
[TC]²
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Phone: 919-380-2156
Fax: 919-380-2181
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