[TC]² Bi-Weekly Technology Communicator

Proper grading ensures good fit of a manufactured garment. Learn basic principles of fit and grading. Hands-on projects include deriving grade rules and manual grading of three basic garments.

Attendees should understand patternmaking, general grading principles, and basic CAD functions. Program is designed for Patternmakers, Marker Makers, Specification and Costing Engineers, and Graders.

For additional information or to register, contact Elizabeth Salisbury at 919.653.3507, or use this contact form.

A Good Option: Sustainable Building

There is a growing list of apparel companies offering sustainable products. The story behind a sustainable product is a good one—a product that provides environmental, social and economic benefits over its life-cycle. The concept fits right in with the public’s growing concern for the overall well-being of the earth—including flora and fauna. Although building and construction contributes significantly to global raw materials use, energy use, solid waste generation, and greenhouse gas emissions, the benefits of investing in sustainable buildings might not be as clear cut for a textile or apparel company.

The concept of green or sustainable buildings is not new, but has been gaining mainstream reputability since the mid 1990’s. Sustainable building is the practice of creating healthier and more resource-efficient models of construction, renovation, operation, maintenance, and demolition. Like a sustainable product, a sustainable building employs a "life-cycle approach", estimating the cumulative environmental and social impacts of a building throughout its lifespan, from construction to use to demolition.

Building green is three fold—having environmental, economic and social benefits:

• Enhance and protect biodiversity and ecosystems
• Improve air and water quality
• Reduce waste streams
• Conserve and restore natural resources

• Reduce operating costs
• Create, expand, and shape markets for green product and services
• Improve employee productivity
• Optimize life-cycle economic performance

• Enhance occupant comfort and health
• Heighten aesthetic qualities
• Minimize strain on local infrastructure
• Improve the overall quality of life

Recent research has shown that sustainable buildings that are designed and operated with their life-cycle impact in mind can provide great environmental, economic, and social benefits. Several studies suggest sustainable construction can also result in significant economic savings by improving employee productivity, increasing benefits from improvements in health and safety, and providing savings from energy, maintenance and operational costs.

As the textile and apparel industries continue to become more competitive, companies search for ways to cut operating costs. Sustainable building is an effective option—according to a number of reports including the EPA Energy Star Report in 2002, sustainable buildings can reduce operating costs by 50%. Other studies have shown that in new sustainable manufacturing facilities productivity increased by about 25% and energy usage decreased by about 30% on a square foot basis.

The upfront cost of green construction is higher than that of conventional construction, however, existing studies indicate that the difference is minimal (only two percent according to a 2003 study sponsored by the U.S. Green Building Council), and the long-term payoffs can quickly offset the initial investment. A recent report broke down the potential financial benefits of sustainable building in the United States.

Type of Benefit	20-year Net Present Value / sq. feet
Energy Savings	$5.80
Emissions Savings	$1.20
Water Savings	$0.50
Operations and Maintenance Savings	$8.50
Productivity and Health Benefits	$36.90 - $55.30
Subtotal	$52.90 - $71.30
Initial Investment in Green Building Practices	$3.00 - $5.00
Total 20-year Net Benefit	$50 - $65

According to real estate and architectural experts, current growth in the green building market is not a short-lived trend but the start of a permanent shift in how the world uses energy and natural resources within the spaces we live and work. As textile and apparel companies continue to expand in other countries, sustainable building could be an important option to consider.

[TC]² Activity
AAFA Fit Symposium

An AAFA Fit Symposium was held at FIT in New York City on January 30, 2008. [TC]²’s Kim Munro introduced Melissa Stewart of Jockey International, who described Jockey’s 3D Innovations product technology for men. As a leading brand for undergarments with product sold in over 140 countries, Jockey searched for solutions to solve issues surrounding fit, including constriction of movement, ill fitting garments, or garments that shift when worn.

Jockey began its quest for the perfect fit by purchasing the SizeUSA data, compiled by [TC]² of over 10,800 subjects in the U.S. Jockey staff worked with [TC]² researchers to analyze the data and understand the diversity of the human body. Over one hundred data points of each male scan were used in the analysis as the scientific foundation for their product platforms, in particular 3D Innovations. Some of their key learnings included the fact that the human form is polymorphic and there are multiple sizes and body shapes for men that influence fit.

In addition to the sizing data, Jockey looked at anatomical issues, including the relationship between muscular structures and range of motion; critical fabric properties, including stretch and recovery; and pattern development, utilizing bias cut panels for best fit rather than aiming for best fabric yield.

Jockey’s new ad campaign, “Dare to be You,” highlights that it is not necessary to fit an established conformity with Jockey’s understanding of the diversity of the human body and their successful application into their products.

Other presenters included Sherry Cassin of Cassin Collections who spoke about the application of Fit Logic sizing models to Cassin’s brand of women’s apparel products, including fur coats, fur-lined rainwear, lifestyle accessories and throws, and most recently, occasion-oriented sportswear and dressses. Maribel Diaz, Operations Manager for Timex and Fergasam Garments, described how their organization is using TukaTech’s e-fit technology to reduce product approval times by communicating virtual fit simulations via email and cell phones. Susan Moses, “Stylist to the Stars,” gave a presentation about some of her experiences working with celebrities including Queen Latifa, Kathy Bates and Hillary Duff. She introduced her new line of apparel for “curvy women” with a brief fashion show, featuring some designs and style features that defy common assumptions made about designing for larger women.

Member Profile

Fresh Produce Sportswear

In 1984, Thom and Mary Ellen Vernon began careers in the apparel industry in Long Beach, California, selling silk-screened t-shirts in bright graphics and custom jewelry at the Summer Olympics in Los Angeles. Over the years the business concept has remained the same - to bring the emotions, the colors, the sensations, and the leisure of beach life to every day life through fashion.

The company name Fresh Produce Sportswear was chosen in 1986 as being catchy, memorable and for evoking a sense of something different. Two years later, Fresh Produce Sportswear established its brand by selling the product line in Nordstrom department stores. In 1990, the business relocated to Boulder, Colorado. Fresh Produce Sportswear believes in good corporate citizenship and donates to many worthy organizations nationally, internationally and in Boulder and the surrounding areas.

Now in its third decade, Fresh Produce Sportswear has grown into a $50 million company with over 16,000 SKUs in one of the most original, refreshing and captivating casual, resort and sportswear lines in America. It is known and loved by women ages 6 months to 60-plus for lush colors, vibrant prints and casual style. Fresh Produce Sportswear can be found in Nordstrom,Walt Disney resorts and stores, and more than 800 specialty boutiques and resort retailers. Company-owned stores and factory outlets are scattered throughout the country, including at exclusive seashore resorts in North America and the Caribbean.

Prime Source Forum 2008
Hong Kong Convention Centre
March 31- April 2, 2008

As the World Economic Forum closed its 2008 meeting in Davos, the organisers of the World’s Apparel Forum were putting their finishing touches to the third edition of Prime Source Forum to be held again in Hong Kong, the epicentre of apparel sourcing. On April 1, Dr. William Fung, who together with his brother, Victor, has taken Li & Fung to the top of the tree in this multi-billion dollar industry will deliver the opening address on the state of the industry.

For two days, industry experts, each a specialist in his or her own right, will air their views on the challenges and opportunities facing their Industry interacting with some 400 delegates drawn from all sectors of the supply chain from raw material to finished product, from factory to retail.