[TC]² Bi-Weekly Technology Communicator

June 20, 2007

Index

Sizing to Fit Your Customer
e-Fitting
[TC]² Seminar Offerings
SizeUSA User Group Meeting
[TC]² Activity - Summer Intern Program Report
Member Profile - Warren Featherbone Company
Important Dates
A Look Ahead
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A Synopsis of a Presentation Entitled ‘Sizing to Fit Your Customer’

Presented by Kim Munro, Product Development Manager, [TC]² and Tim Curran, Manager-Industry-Services, [TC]²

It is not uncommon to find a multitude of sizes in a woman’s closet—sizes 6 -10 or Sm - Lg. And just because the tag says size 10 doesn't mean she’s not the 6 she thought she was. It’s not the size that’s important—it’s the fit. In fact, fit is one of the biggest challenges facing apparel makers, brand owners and retailers. And how are they doing? According to a recent survey by Kurt Salmon Associates, 70% of women say they have difficulty finding clothes that fit well. At this year’s SPESA Expo, [TC]² researchers shared the ways that apparel companies can utilize the data generated by the SizeUSA survey to zero in on the demographic group that makes up their customer base—and provide better fitting clothing.

Before the advent of body scanning, apparel manufacturers were forced to modify an archaic data base in an attempt to fit their target customer. The SizeUSA National Sizing Survey, conducted in 2003 by [TC]², has provided an up-to-date database with demographic information correlated to body measurements. In the survey over 10,000 people across the United States were scanned. The subjects were grouped by gender, age and ethnicity. Each scanned subject completed a questionnaire which provided researchers with valuable data such as zip code, annual household income, marital status, education level, employment status, shopping preferences and size label assumptions.

[TC]² researchers have used the rich data base provided by the SizeUSA survey to examine the lower body measurements of women. Three target customer segments were identified according to age range. The three segments were broken into sub-categories by height and weight to identify twelve statistically significant size categories. Once the categories were identified, the researchers extracted the appropriate body measurement data from the SizeUSA database. The researchers demonstrated how the data could be analyzed to create brand-specific size ranges or determine the "best fit" garment from a standard range of garments.

The data generated by the SizeUSA survey can also be manipulated to target groups that are not currently being served by the mass market and identify the most common characteristics of a specific group.

For more details on research in the area of 3D body measurements contact:

Kim Munro (kmunro@tc2.com)  Product Development Manager, [TC]² • Tim Curran (tcurran@tc2.com) Manager-Industry Services, [TC]²


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e-Fitting

By Jason Delevan, TUKATECH

What Is e-Fitting? Why e-Fitting? And What is e-?

Everyone's talking about this new idea, called e-fitting. ‘e’ stands for Electronic fitting. It is by far the biggest buzz in the fashion industry. You’ve seen magazine articles on the concept, and presentations in various trade shows. Sometimes it's called virtual prototyping, or virtual sample making. Most people know it has something to do with 3D and computers, but what exactly is this process, and how does it work? How will it help the fashion industry? Who can really implement this technology?

Read more...


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[TC]² Seminar Offerings

July 11-12
Lean Manufacturing and the Importance of Cycle Time

Modular manufacturing systems reduce work-in-process, increase quality, and shorten lead times.  You’ll find out how to achieve these benefits as well as understand the commitment modular requires at all levels of the organization.  If you are thinking about transitioning to modular manufacturing, this seminar is a must.

Seminar Highlights:

• Explore what it takes to create a modular manufacturing environment
• Understand the engineering issues associated with modular
• Learn how to staff and configure a modular line for a product
• Examine different organizational support functions such as computer simulation   and alternative pay systems
• Develop employee involvement and continuous improvement skills

 

July 18-20
Pattern Development – One of our most well-attended courses

Learn introductory principles of fit, pattern development, and marker making.  Hands-on activities include flat pattern manipulations, fabric critique, and garment investigation.

Seminar Highlights:

• Learn basic pattern terminology
• Review patternmaking principles related to fit
• Learn two flat pattern techniques
• Utilize slopers to make first patterns
• Draft pants from body measurements
• Apply grade rules
• Discuss requirements of production on pattern development
• Study effects of pattern development on grading, marker making, cutting, sewing,   and final garment.

Seating is limited.  To register for these seminars, click here.


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SizeUSA User Group Meeting

Accepting Registrations

The third SizeUSA User Group meeting will be held at [TC]² on June 28, 2007, with SizeUSA users sharing some of the research and uses of the sizing information. Agenda topics include:

 

• [TC]²’s latest research in scanning applications and product development
• The technology behind SizeUSA Standard Body Forms
• Size 8 differences in Ethnic Groups
• Using SizeUSA data to examine the relationship of bust to waist to hips
• Using SizeUSA Data to test assumptions used to create grade rules

The meeting is open to SizeUSA license holders and others in the industry. Click here for the registration form. For more information call Jim Lovejoy at 919-380-2184.


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[TC]² Activity
Summer Intern Program Report

By Jessie Hill, Baylor University, and
Amy Lehan, University of Wisconsin-Stout

In the past two weeks, the [TC]² student interns have had numerous learning experiences ranging from technical development to field experiences to production floor layout.  We started an ongoing hands-on project with Kerry McGuire King and Genevieve Garland, from Inkdrop Printing, the digital print department.  Our project involves designing two large prints in one complementary print in two different color ways for the target market and theme that we were assigned. Researching current and future trends as well as the target market greatly influenced our colors and print designs.

Once we print our fabrics we will manufacture and sew into a professional tote and wristlet. With this project we learned about trend forecasting, print repeats and colorways. A representative from Cotton, Incorporated came to [TC]² to talk about how Cotton conducts trend research and forecasts colors for the upcoming season. Also, in relation to print design, we took a field trip to Burlington, NC to visit D2 Design Studio. D2 Design Studio is a small company that specializes in freelance textile design for outdoor furniture.


Digital print designs created by Amy Lehan


While working our digital print project, we had a three day seminar on pattern drafting, grading and marker making for apparel with Elizabeth White. She taught us different pattern drafting methods as well as methods of grading using tabletop machines, computer technology, and by hand. We also spend a few days with Kim Anderson learning about textiles, and the details of different weaves structures and knit structures. Kim also took us on a field trip to North Carolina State University College of Textiles where we saw the process of creating textiles from fiber to fabric, including spinning, weaving, non-woven, dying and finishing processes. While learning about textiles we also had representatives from Clover Tex and Cognis Corporation who provided information on their respective companies. Clover Tex is a company that discovered a process to create heathers in the form of greige goods, increasing speed to market. Cognis specializes in active textiles. The company uses microcapsules to apply various products, ranging from cellulite reduction cream to bug spray, to fabrics. Applications include active wear, casual clothing and even linens.

Last week was spent learning about technical design, focusing on drawing technical flats to scale. In relation to technical design we learned about Product Data Management (PDM) programs from Tim Curran.  He demonstrated the New Generation Computing software that has a wide range of uses, from tracking production to sourcing. Richard Atwell explained production manufacturing. We performed time studies and designed plant layouts for a production facility.

The past two weeks have been fast paced and filled with plenty of hands-on learning experiences. The topics we cover are challenging, yet very applicable to our current educational paths and to our future careers in the soft goods industry. In addition to our learning experiences, we have also enjoyed the company’s hospitality and are thankful for outside company activities such as the Durham Bulls baseball game and company picnic. Thanks [TC]²!


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Member Profile
Warren Featherbone Company

By Karen Davis, [TC]²

What is a featherbone?

"Featherbone" is a stay material that was used in women's corsets made from the quills of turkey feathers, lighter weight and more flexible that the previously used whalebone.  Making corset stays is but one of many business ventures for this 125-year old family business.

E.K. Warren, philanthropist and entrepreneur, began the Warren Featherbone Co. of Three Oaks, Michigan in 1883. Warren also founded Warren and Co. Grain Exchange; E.K. Warren Banking Co., now part of Fifth Third Bank of Cincinnati, Ohio; and the Warren Featherbone
Whip Co.


The ever-constant Warren logo with 3 oaks

With the end of World War I, fashion no longer required such stringent foundation garments, which were replaced with elasticized undergarments such as bandeaux and girdles.  Notions were added to the company’s product offerings, including rickrack, braided elastic, blanket binding, tie cords, and bias tape, among other items. 

In 1939, the company produced the first plastic baby pant to be used over cloth diapers. Other products included machine gun belts in World War II, diaper bags, cosmetic bags, plastic raincoats, infant apparel and shoe covers for the Atomic Energy Commission.
Warren Featherbone Co. moved to Gainesville, Georgia in 1956, to manufacture the Alexis children’s wear clothing line, including flotation swimwear.  The manufacturing business was sold in 2005.

As early as 1917, when Mr. Warren created the first foundation in Michigan and provided the land for two state parks in Michigan, Warren Dunes State Park and Warren Woods State Park, the company has sought ways to give back to the community. Warren Featherbone Co. along with local individuals has organized Featherbone Center, LLC, for the betterment of the community. With a vision for education, Featherbone “Communiversity” has evolved from the 127,000-square-foot facility previously used to manufacture infant’s apparel to provide collaborative, cross-generational learning through a unique alliance among educational institutions.  Communiversity is a combination of the words community and university, and is defined as “a learning community where the whole community learns.”

Gus Whalen, CEO of The Warren Featherbone Company and Chairman of The Warren Featherbone Foundation, led the creation of the Communiversity that has been developed in his company’s factory in Gainesville. The facility incorporates a manufacturing development center for Lanier Technical College, the department of nursing for Brenau University, and Ink, an interactive neighborhood for kids, which is a kid-sized 20,000 sq. ft. museum of everyday business enterprises that have exploratory, hands-on exhibits for children.

The Warren Featherbone Company is an example of how a company can survive and adapt to the changes in fashion and business by constantly re-inventing itself.  In an article written on the company, The Wall Street Journal notes, “...Warren Featherbone is a reminder that, even in this restive financial era, there is a core to U.S. business that has value and tradition, and that endures.”


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Important Dates

June

28

SizeUSA User Group Meeting at [TC]²

July

11-12

Lean Manufacturing and the Importance of Cycle Time Seminar - [TC]², Cary NC.
For more details, click here.

18-20

Pattern Development Seminar - [TC]², Cary NC. For more details, click here.

31-Aug 2

Apparel Conference of the Americas – 2007 Casa Santo Domingo Antigua, Guatemala.
For more details, visit www.aapnetwork.net.

 

For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com

Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors
Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Lawson, Lectra, Methods Workshop and Reach Technologies.


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A Look Ahead in the Newsletter



SPESA Expo 2007 Review
[TC]² Student Intern Program Reports

View previous editions of this newsletter


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[TC]²
211 Gregson Drive
Cary , NC 27511
www.tc2.com
Phone: 919-380-2156
Fax: 919-380-2181

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