[TC]² Bi-Weekly Technology Communicator
May 23, 2007 |
Index• CRADA with U.S. Army |
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CRADA with U.S. Army
By Dr. David Bruner, [TC]²
[TC]² has signed a cooperative research and development agreement(CRADA) with the United States Army Natick Soldier Research Development and Engineering center (NSRDEC) to share data and information related to the determination of body composition using information extracted from 3D body scans. NSRDEC has conducted substantial research related to this topic and has plans to continue and expand on that research. [TC]² has independently conducted research and developed automatic body composition output from its 3D body scan software which is currently in use at commercial health and fitness centers.
In addition to body composition the [TC]² application also reports muscularity indices and weight estimates based on body composition and body volume. These extraction features are reported in combination with key body measures in an automatic tracking tool so that personal trainers, doctors, or individuals can track their progress over time.
[TC]² Seminar Offerings
June 4-6
Pattern, Grading and Marker Development
[TC]² is offering a crash course in apparel patternmaking, grading, and marker making skills. The seminar is a condensed version of the popular Pattern Development and Grading for Fit three-day programs designed to incorporate the [TC]² 2007 Student Interns.
Seminar Highlights: • Review terminology and patternmaking principles related to fit |
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Attendees should understand fabric characteristics and basic garment construction processes.
July 18-20
Pattern Development – One of our most well-attended courses
Learn introductory principles of fit, pattern development, and marker making. Hands-on activities include flat pattern manipulations, fabric critique, and garment investigation.
Seminar Highlights: • Learn basic pattern terminology |
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Seating is limited. To register for these seminars, click here.
SPESA Expo 2007
Material World, SPESA Expo and Technology Solutions came together to form one of the most comprehensive exhibitions for textile and apparel professionals. This year’s event, held at the Miami Convention Center on May 8th-10th, showcased the latest developments in machinery and equipment; fabrics and trims; and information technology.
[TC]² was an active participant in this year’s show, organizing a 4,000 sq. ft. exhibit dubbed the Cool Zone. The exhibit showcased fifteen vendors who revealed a cache of their latest developments.
Research being conducted at [TC]² continues to dovetail with the apparel industry’s most pressing issues. At this year’s show, [TC]² researchers shared their findings and insight by presenting and moderating nearly half of the educational programs.
In the upcoming issues of the [TC]² Bi-Weekly Technology Communicator, a detailed account of some the highlights at this year’s show will
be reviewed.
[TC]² Activity
Benchmarking Effective Brand Management
By Kim Anderson, [TC]²
At SPESA Expo 2007, Dr. Mike Fralix, CEO of [TC]², moderated a panel discussion titled Benchmarking Effective Brand Management. Three of today’s industry heavyweights—Brad Beal, Sr. VP of Manufacturing and Operations, Jockey International, Inc.; Chuck Nesbit, Executive VP and COO, Chico’s FAS, Inc.; and Rick Horwitch, Vice President of Business Development & Marketing, Bureau Veritas, shared their insight into what drives effective brand management.
Dr. Fralix jump-started the program with a preview of Haggar’s recent advertising campaign. Haggar is re-defining its brand through a series of humorous and effective advertisements.
Brad Beal opened by giving the audience a snippet of history about the 3rd generation family-owned Jockey. Concerned about the hard-working lumberjacks, a minister went on a search for socks that would prevent blisters. Today, Jockey maintains their original “customer centric” strategy.
Fralix urged Beal to divulge more—“What has changed…Jockey hasn’t sat still?”
Beal explained that Jockey has undergone extensive changes in its 131 years—now they are global, offer women’s products and use a variety of innovative fibers including bamboo and Coolmax®; however, they have maintained their initial vision.
Beal went on to share more about Jockey’s focus—underwear is upfront and personal and comfort is paramount to the customer. At Jockey they don’t concentrate so much on being the cheapest but on offering a superior product at a reasonable price.
Chuck Nesbit opened by sharing Chico’s unique beginning. Twenty-five years ago the company’s owners began a modest import/export business. They dealt with a variety of products but soon found the cotton clothes sold the best. They zeroed in on apparel and plucked a name from a pet parrot—Chico—and quickly transitioned a humble beginning into a wildly successful company. How have they achieved and maintained such success? They’re all about “customer relationships.”
Nesbit explained that knowing the Chico’s customer is integral to their success. They know their age, where they shop, their habits, what kind of car they drive. ..“at Chico’s we talk about the customer everyday…we have a synergistic communication with our customer.”
Fralix then asked, “How do you define your customer?” Nesbit explained that they collect real-life customer data and transfer it to the designers in real time. The relationship with their customer doesn’t stop with Chico’s internal practices—it also filters into their stores. In-store sales associates are trained to help customers find the right piece as well as put together full wardrobes equipped with accessories. As Nesbit puts it—they act as fashion advisors.
The 3rd panelist gave an unexpected take on how to achieve and maintain successful brand management. Rick Horwitch started with a heartfelt personal history—his family business would have celebrated their 100th anniversary in 2007 but they only made it to 90 years in the garment business. Why—they lost their focus. Horwitch explained “they wanted to do business with everyone and you can’t be everything to everybody…you need to have purpose and focus.”
Fralix asked Horwitch—how can a brand be successful? Horwitch gave some more valuable advice—“you can’t use another company’s model…focus on what you do well.” He used Zara, as an example. Zara is in the midst of expanding globally and is beginning to have issues with their previously successful fast fashion model. Horwitch cautioned, “Using other’s models might get you out of your core competency.” He believes one of the most important factors is the “why”—that is, why is the product important to the customer and what value does it have to them.
Fralix then asked the panel members if fast fashion was a part of their strategy.
Nesbit responded by explaining that at Chico’s there is a tight supplier relationship that has endured through time, “it is a symbiotic relationship.” Chico’s suppliers are part of the team, there is inherent trust. Since they understand pricing they can focus on speed and great product quality.
Like Nesbit, Beal pointed out the importance of the supplier relationship. He noted that Jockey has been doing business with many of their vendors for years—“suppliers for Jockey know Jockey.”
Beal explained that Jockey is involved with both fast fashion and slow fashion. He went on to say that they can turn quick product—cut, sew and package in one week, but when involved with product development the process slows down because true innovation is slow. He said they want to be faster but their main focus is to make a quality product that fits.
Fralix then opened the floor to questions.
Julio Barea, a consummate industry professional, asked “When does a label become a brand?”
Nesbit explained that a brand, unlike a label has an emotional bond. A brand is associated with trust; it is consistent, has quality and allows for superior profits. A brand dictates the way the store feels, looks, smells, displays product. A brand has a life…it is a whole experience.
Beal followed with “a brand is a brand because there is an emotional relationship with the customer, there is a level of expectation. When a customer buys a label they don’t necessarily know what they’re getting. A brand delivers, there is a positive experience.”
After continued discussion, the strong consensus among the panelists and audience was—we know when a brand is a brand and when a label is a label but there are some shades of grey when it comes to knowing when the crossover happens—when a label becomes a brand. Barea most likely knew the complexity of his question.
Fralix then asked the panelists what we could expect next. Nesbit said Chico’s would continue to grow and evolve, maybe acquire another label that would become a brand. Beal said Jockey would also continue to grow and evolve with its customers. Horwitch believed long term sustainability will be an important issue and reinforced his earlier point that brands must maintain focus.
In conclusion, Fralix summed up several of the “power points” made by the panelists: know your customer and partner/collaborate with suppliers. The two combined are essential ingredients of a successful brand and will ultimately provide long term stability.
The Cool Zone at SPESA Expo
By Karen Davis, [TC]²
The Cool Zone was the place to be at SPESA Expo 2007 May 8-10. A constant flow of visitors watched t-shirts being printed, cut, and sewn on the show floor using technology from Yuhan Kimberly for nano-colorant printing, Gerber Technology for cutting, and [TC]²’s sewing specialists assembling the garments with sewing machines supplied by Rimoldi, thread from American & Efird, and needles provided by Schmetz. Ten designs were printed on ladies’ t-shirts and distributed during show days.
In addition to the t-shirt demonstration, show attendees viewed products from vendors exhibiting state-of-the-art technologies, which have been individually described in previous newsletters.
Shima Seiki demonstrated its WholeGarment™ knitting machine, creating seamlessly knitted products.
SK C&C had the largest digital information display seen in the Western Hemisphere, at 82” tall. Personal avatars were shown in motion, wearing various garments from a library of designs.
Paxar displayed its magicmirror™, which reads RFID-tagged products to provide branding details and accessories available for mix-and-match.
Alvanon showed its AlvaForm, a method to prepare a mannequin from a subject’s scan.
Assyst-Bullmer demonstrated its Vidya 3D visualization tool to view a garment on an avatar to determine the fabric’s behavior on the body.
Audaces exhibited Digiflash, a product to digitize patterns utilizing digital photographs.
Lectra demonstrated its Modaris 3D fit virtual prototyping solution, and Kaledo 3D trend to create animated storyboards.
Shapely Shadow offered attendees a 360o view of themselves with FastFit, a visual communications software program that captures movement for online fit approvals.
Tukatech showcased its e-Fit Simulator to view a model in 3D, with simulated movements. Tukatech also demonstrated a frame-by-frame video application for fit approvals, eliminating the need for sample creation.
In a theater area of the Cool Zone, presentations were offered every 45 minutes, providing information on each company’s technologies. Many vendors had separate booths on the show floor, or in the Technology Solutions area.
Seminars were well attended, beginning on May 7th with a Lean Manufacturing program presented by [TC]²’s Will Duncan and Tim Curran, which sold out at sixty participants.
Just under 19,000 people pre-registered to attend the show, and another 4,000 individuals were registered as exhibitors. However you count it, SPESA Expo, Material World, and Technology Solutions brought close to 15,000 people to Miami Beach to be a part of this triennial event. It was well-attended by an enthusiastic crowd, anxious to learn more about “cool” leading edge technologies that may be incorporated into future business strategies.
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Assyst/Bullmer provided 3D glasses for its presentation of the Vidya software program. |
Gerber’s DCS 3500 cutter demonstration. |
To view more photos from The Cool Zone, click here. (PDF)
Important Dates
May
29 |
[TC]² Student Internship program begins |
June
4-6 |
Pattern, Grading and Marker Development Seminar – [TC]², Cary NC. For more details, click here. |
28 |
SizeUSA User Group Meeting at [TC]² |
14-15 |
Optimizing Design through Software and Technology. Presented by AATCC/CITDA at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. For more details, click here. |
July
18-20 |
Pattern Development Seminar - [TC]², Cary NC. For more details, click here. |
For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com
Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors
Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Lawson, Lectra, Methods Workshop and Reach Technologies.
A Look Ahead in the Newsletter
SPESA Expo 2007
[TC]² Student Intern Program Reports
View previous editions of this newsletter
[TC]²
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Phone: 919-380-2156
Fax: 919-380-2181
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