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January 24, 2007 |
Index• It's Not Just an Aesthetic Decision |
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By Kim Anderson, Ph.D., [TC]²
A woven fabric consists of two sets of interlacing yarns which lie perpendicular to one another. The yarns can be interlaced in many different ways to produce numerous weave designs. Even with a cursory glance, an untrained eye can see a visual difference in weave designs. Much less apparent is that weaves have different mechanical properties. When choosing a weave design for a particular product, one must consider the aesthetic appearance of the weave as well as the desired properties.
There are three basic weaves from which all other weaves are derived—a plain, twill and satin. To find out how to choose the best weave for the product you’re designing, read the article titled “It’s not Just an Aesthetic Decision: Choosing the Right Weave Design ” at www.techexchange.com.
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From Left to Right: A Plain, 2x2 Twill and 5-Harness Satin Weave |
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By Jud Early, [TC]²
Outside, the first snowfall of the year was gently covering the yellow taxis and black limos. Inside, more than one hundred people were in attendance at FIT in New York City. The event, on January 18th was a seminar entitled: “TRANSFORMING YOUR BUSINESS: Altering Your Apparel Approach to Best Fit Your Business.”
After such a lengthy title, what more can be said? Speakers included Jeff Streader, President of Kellwood Global, who delivered the keynote address, and others who will be mentioned in the context of each session described below. Jeff set the stage for the day’s topics in a multi-pointed presentation that spoke of the decline of shipments from CAFTA countries which are down 8% for the first eleven months of 2006, along with a 12% reduction in goods from Mexico. These figures put strong emphasis on the need for Western Hemisphere companies to face the reality of global competition and respond accordingly. He urged those who are sourcing product to leverage the power of the “one supply chain.” Posing the question “Does speed equal growth?”, and answering with another question, “Is CAFTA the answer?” Throughout the keynote, the importance of people was stressed. In comments that came from the heart, Jeff spoke of the value of people, and reinforced that it is people who are trained, educated, and knowledgeable that will make the difference in a global business environment.
Three focused sessions followed the keynote, each with a unique topical area.
Understanding, Creating, and Seizing Consumer Demand for Sustainable Growth Moderated by Steve McLendon, VP Sales Tradecard. Speakers included:
• Kathe DeCherico, Chief Strategist, Visionary Strategies
• Richard Lusk, VP Operations, VF Intimates
• Jan Hilger, Director, Shirt & Neckwear Unit, Hugo Boss
Panelists spoke on capturing, engaging and feeding the consumer, consumer segmentation, and bringing partners “in-house.”
Product Development Roundtable Moderated by Rick Horwitch, VP, Bureau Veritas. Speakers included:
• Brad Beal, Executive VP, Jockey International
• Renee Bavineau, Product Development Consultant, Walter Wilhelm Associates
• Jennifer Pritchard, Director of Cycle Time Reduction, JCPenney
Points made by the speakers include: Biggest is not #1, being best is #1, the importance of a single calendar in PD, knowing your customer, and balancing speed with need.
Sourcing and Logistics Roundtable Moderated by Charles Gilbert, Charles Gilbert & Associates. Speakers included:
• Ted Taylor, VP Target Sourcing Services / AMC
• Steve DiBlasi, VP Manufacturing, Lanier Clothes
• Roger McDivitt, CEO, Horney Toad Activewear
Ted led off by stating that Target is the third largest sourcing organization in the world. With 51 sourcing offices around the world, they buy everything from apparel to furniture to food. Steve DiBlasi’s presentation began with “Where in the world are my clothes?” He then proceeded to tell us how Lanier serves its customers in a seamless manner, without regard to where the product is made. Ending the day of information-packed sessions was Roger McDivitt, who stressed corporate social responsibility and wrapped up with a discussion of initial cost vs. final cost, and how it is often the case that the lowest cost does not yield the highest margin.
Marshall Gordon, Sr. VP, Trade Card, who had opened the day’s program, asked for questions, but with planes to catch and with all that had been said during the information-packed panels, no questions were asked, and the seminar was adjourned. The networking and relationship building that this type of event provides cannot be valued in currency. All in all, it was a very good production, thanks to the hard work by the members of the Enterprise Competitiveness Committee of AAFA.

Shima Seiki and The “Cool Zone” at SPESA Expo 2007
Hot Technologies Transforming the Industry
By Karen Davis, [TC]²
Can you imagine distributing a product before it is manufactured? Attendees to SPESA Expo in Miami on May 8-10 will be able to see how.
Just as newspapers are no longer manufactured in a central location and then distributed, Shima Seiki will show how garments might some day be delivered in digital form to your local drycleaners and then converted into the physical product to be worn. In the Cool Zone, Shima Seiki will exhibit its 3D knitting machine for whole garment knitting. Garments can be designed, viewed virtually, and shipped before ever being manufactured.
Typically, a knitted garment consists of separate parts--the front and back body panels and the sleeves--which are sewn together afterward. In sharp contrast, Shima Seiki's revolutionary WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear is produced in one entire piece, three-dimensionally, directly on the knitting machine, requiring no post-production labor. Bulky and annoying stitches at the shoulders, sides and underarms are eliminated, offering fit and comfort superior to that of any other textile product. Additionally, products have improved stretch and mobility, and require minimal yarn consumption to manufacture.
Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd., established in 1962, is a mechatronics R&D, manufacturing and sales firm based in the city of Wakayama, Japan. It is a leading manufacturer of computerized glove and flatbed knitting machines and world leader in the WholeGarment knitting process. Shima Seiki USA was launched in 1987 in Cranbury, New Jersey.
Tony McBryan, General Manager of Shima Seiki U.S.A. Inc., currently located in the Shima Seiki New York Design Center, comments, “We look forward to exhibiting our technology within the “Cool Zone.” Our process, beginning with design and development through manufacture, has been developed with increased efficiencies over the current process. This is an opportunity to view “virtual knitting” at the highest level as well as actual product manufacture.”
The Shima Seiki exhibit is part of a 4,000 sq. ft. pavilion that [TC]² is coordinating. It is the largest exhibit combining multiple suppliers, and will showcase leading edge technologies that are in support of a totally digital supply chain. The space will be divided into four areas of concentration: Product Development, Merchandising/Sales, Product Conversion, and Distribution.
Shima Seiki will demonstrate its SWG-X WholeGarment Knitting Machine, SDS-ONE Full Design System, Visual Hanger System, and the Shimatronic Screen System
In addition to the exhibits by more than ten different companies, there will be live presentations during show hours, describing the various technologies and pavilion activities in depth.
[TC]² will be unveiling its new “dressing room-size” 3D body scanner, a 4’x4.5’ enclosure scaled to fit into most retail dressing room areas. The newest generation NX-16 scanner is a fully automatic, white-light technology designed for several applications, including apparel, athletic, health and fitness management, and medical applications.

Plan to visit the Cool Zone, Pavilion 670, at the SPESA Expo, May 8-10, at the Miami Convention Center to view these products firsthand. For more information on SPESA Expo 2007, visit www.spesaexpo.com.
February
4-6 |
SPESA Annual Meeting, Charleston, SC, details available at www.spesa.org. |
6-8 |
Pattern Development Seminar at [TC]² , for information or to register click here. |
12-15 |
MAGIC Show, Las Vegas, www.magiconline.com. |
25-27 |
NTC Forum, Hilton Head, SC. To register or for information visit www.ntcresearch.org. |
28-3/2 |
AAAFA Annual Executive Summit, St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort. For details visit www.apparelandfootwear.org. |
March
13 |
Annual Meeting of Members and the Board of Directors at [TC]² |
28-30 |
Grading for Fit Seminar at [TC]², for information or to register click here. |
29 |
Quality & Systems Improvement for Sewn Products, Seminar at [TC]². For details, click here. |
April
18-20 |
Pattern Development Seminar at [TC]², for information or to register click here. |
23-24 |
Two Fast Fashion Workshops, Mexico City, for more information Click here. |
23-27 |
Intro to Apparel Manufacturing Seminar, at [TC]² , for information or to register click here |
For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com
Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors
Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Intentia, Lectra, Methods Workshop and Reach Technologies.
A Look Ahead in the Newsletter
Colombiatex
MAGIC
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