The Cool Zone concept was introduced by [TC]² at SPESA Expo 2007, held in Miami Beach, FL in May. The 4,000 sq. ft. exhibit contained multiple suppliers who showcased leading edge technologies that are in support of a totally digital supply chain.
The space was divided into four areas of concentration: Product Development, Merchandising/Sales, Product Conversion, and Distribution. The following describes the technologies which comprised the Cool Zone.
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Can you imagine ordering a customized garment and watching it being printed, cut, and sewn? SPESA Expo attendees were be able to view garments being created in a team sewing environment in the Cool Zone. Four companies provided the equipment and findings to make the demonstration possible.
American & Efird supplied thread for the Cool Zone. A&E manufactures and distributes premium industrial and embroidery threads on a global basis, and uses only the finest grades of cotton, synthetic staple fibers and filaments for its products. Finished thread is tested repeatedly to assess its strength and sewability. A&E thread and yarn is used for apparel, automotive, upholstered furniture, home furnishings, footwear, bedding and mattresses, and other sewn products. In addition to thread and yarn, A&E produces a line of knitted elastics and distributes various sewing supplies.
Since its inception in the 1890's, A&E has greatly expanded its facilities and has maintained pace with technological improvements. A&E was the first textile company in North Carolina to match colors by digital computer, automate the doffing system on spinning frames, computerize their dye machines, and build a mercerizing plant.
CF Rimoldi, supplier of the Vega automatic back latch and high speed over lock sewing machines for the Cool Zone, is part of the CF Italia Group, located in Gallarate near Milan, which produces industrial sewing machines. Special sewing machines, the result of years of design experimentation, are recognized internationally as quality products with solutions for any problem regarding feasibility, productivity and quality.
Rimoldi also demonstrated its Digiflex RFID solutions, which are ideal for textile/garment manufacturers who make several products on a single production line, or manufacture complex or customized products. Assembly line personnel can use an RFID reader to verify which processes have been completed, to determine which inspections or tests are required and to automatically update the central production database. And production planners and inventory control personnel can use the Digiflex RFID tags to automatically update the customer database and finished goods inventory, using an RFID reader and PC, rather than manually creating data entry sheets, which could introduce errors into the system.
The Rimoldi of America branch in Miami location houses a multilingual staff, with sales and technical offices.
Dürkopp Adler America supplied the single needed lockstitch sewing machines for the Cool Zone demonstration.
The first sewing machine factory in Bielefeld, Germany was launched in the mid 19th century, in response to the industrial revolution and a resultant expanding need for sewing equipment. Growing national and international competition prompted the creation of other business ventures, including manufacturing bicycles, automobiles and trucks under separate companies. After being two separate entities, Dürkopp Adler America, Inc. was formed in 1991 as a wholly owned subsidiary of Dürkopp Adler AG.
Today, Dürkopp Adler AG offers solutions in the field of sewing and conveyor equipment. The group operates with a worldwide service and distribution network of 11 subsidiaries and more than 80 authorized dealers. The objective of the company is to perfect the automation of production procedures, guaranteeing at the same time a maximum degree of flexible applications.
The U.S. corporate office of Dürkopp Adler America, Inc. is located in Norcross, Georgia, and serves the markets of North, Central, and South America and the Caribbean.
Schmetz provided sewing needles for the Cool Zone product line. Utilizing its two centuries of experience, working relationships with research institutions around the world, and the latest measuring instruments, Ferd. Schmetz GmbH strives to offer every customer the best needle with the best service on the most economical terms. Its Application Team assists in identifying the best needle product to meet specifications, and will develop custom-made products or modify existing needles to meet requirements.
With company headquarters in Germany, Schmetz maintains branch offices and dealers worldwide for support and rapid availability of its product line.
Alvanon
Can you imagine creating a fit assistant from scan data? Alvanon exhibited a mannequin created from a model’s 3D image, and demonstrated AlvaForm, its 3D method for generating dress forms.
Through the use of a body scanner or by precise specification acquisition techniques, a subject’s exact body measurements are extracted. After the data has been adjusted and approved, the information is used to create a mold that produces durable and long lasting dress forms for product development and quality assurance in the field.
All Alvaforms are made at the company’s manufacturing facility from fiberglass and are covered with 2 layers of rib and a covering of durable, high quality linen. Alvaforms also come fully-equipped with standard features including collapsible shoulders, detachable shoulder caps, detachable arms, a detachable leg, a collapsible hip and a metal stand. The company has a complete line of standard forms, including forms for infants, toddlers and children.
Dr. Kenneth Wang founded Alvanon in 2001 to supply fit solutions for the apparel industry. Alvanon maintains offices in New York, London, and Hong Kong with a staff of fit experts, 3D developers, IT professionals and pattern makers with years of experience in apparel manufacturing and supply chain management.
Assyst/Bullmer
Can you imagine visualizing your 2D pattern joined onto a 3D avatar in the desired size and fabric, and in a variety of poses? Attendees at the SPESA Expo Event could view the process created through Assyst/Bullmer’s vidya software.
A garment can be displayed on an avatar in adjustable poses to determine the fabric’s behavior on the body. Fit problems or issues with drape are immediately apparent, and a tape measure and virtual pins provide the vidya user with familiar tools to make alterations and view their effects. Pattern pieces are checked using 3D visualization to detect any possible flaws prior to the initial cut. Material characteristics and fabric types are stored in a database for easy access. The system is designed to eliminate the high costs associated with creating prototypes, and the digital images can be shared with partners internationally.
Since the inception of Assyst/Bullmer in 1985, the heart of its business philosophy has been a steadfast commitment to the highest quality equipment with excellent customer service, support, and consultation. Its product line includes robust and proven solutions for textile and product design, product development management (PDM/PLM), pattern design (CAD), manual and automatic marker making or nesting, marker plotting, cut and cost planning and optimization, automated material handling, and spreading, and automated single, low and high-ply cutting (CAM/CNC). Several of these products such as automatic marker making, cost planning or data conversion are offered as a web service on its e-commerce platform automarker.com. Assyst/Bullmer is headquartered in Germany, with offices in China, Italy, the UK and U.S.
Audaces
Can you imagine digitizing patterns using only a digital camera? In the Cool Zone, Audaces demonstrated Digiflash, its software product that digitizes patterns using digital photographs, making a camera support, digitizing table or any other equipment unnecessary.
Possible problems such as distance, framing, perspective or photo distortion can be corrected by the system. Using artificial intelligence, the software generates a digital reproduction by automatically detecting the contours and control points.
The principal advantage of Audaces Digiflash is the precision and time savings, since it is possible to digitize a set of patterns all at once, increasing productivity. Claudio Vasques de Souza, Regional Manager of Audaces, comments, “We were pleased to present Audaces Digiflash in the Cool Zone because we know that the state-of-the-art in technology for the Garment industry was focused there during SPESA Expo 2007.”
Audaces Automação, located in Florianópolis, Brazil, is a company that develops technology solutions for automation of productive processes. Operating in the market since 1992, the company exports its products around the world and has clients in all of Latin America, Europe, Africa and Asia.
In addition to undertaking technology solutions for the creation and production sectors of companies and for product management, the company also operates in the hardware segment. Audaces is the only Latin American producer of large format ink jet printers (plotters) for the apparel industry.
Gerber Technology
Can you imagine developing and selling a product without ever making a physical sample? SPESA Expo attendees were able to learn how by following a high-fashion t-shirt being designed, printed, cut and sewn, all while visiting the Cool Zone. Gerber Technology supplied the cutting equipment to produce the garment on the show floor.
Gerber’s DCS 3500 conveyorized cutting system is designed for low- or single-ply cutting, which does not require spreaders or paper or plastic underlays. Multiple tool mounts provide greater flexibility, and the cutter’s small footprint reduces floor space requirements.
Gerber Technology, one of four business units of Gerber Scientific, Inc., provides design, product lifecycle management, and automated production solutions for the sewn and flexible goods industries. In addition to its line of cutters and spreaders, other product offerings include the AccuMark™ pattern design suite; AccuNest™ marker making software, and Fashion Lifecycle Management.
Hal Osthus, Executive Director, Product Management, Gerber Technology, comments, “Gerber partnered with Yuhan-Kimberly to produce nano-colorant t-shirts in the Cool Zone. With its high speed operation and matching capabilities, the DCS 3500 is an ideal tool for custom products.”
Gerber also demonstrated its AccuMark V-Stitcher 3D pattern visualization software as part of the 4,000 sq. ft. pavilion.
i-Fashion
Can you imagine having your very own private tailor, making made-to-measure clothes that fit your specific taste and styles, then looking into the mirror to see how these form-fitting clothes will look on you? That dream is one step closer to reality i-Fashion’s exhibit, Mass Customization, featured i-Fashion’s “Magic Mirror” which allows the customer to try-on virtually any combination of sizes and styles of clothes.
i-Fashion demonstrated “Mass Customization,” a new concept of purchasing tailor-made clothing in a virtual way. Consumers can pick any type of clothing and can coordinate the details (necklines, waistlines, sleeves, buttons, pockets, prints, textile, etc.) to his/her own tastes by virtually draping the garments onto an avatar procured from a body scanner. Consumers can then look into the Magic Mirror to see what their tailor-made garments will look like.
The i-Fashion Technology Center, based in Seoul, Korea, was founded in 2006. It was funded by the Korean Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Energy (MOCIE) and the Seoul Metropolitan Government to conduct governmental projects for next 5 years collaboratively with academia and several hi-tech companies domestically and abroad. This coalition was created to form a new fashion industry paradigm that is both service and consumer oriented.
Prof. Chang-Kyu Park, director for the i-Fashion Technology Center commented, “At SPESA Expo 2007, i-Fashion introduced its solutions to the West. Existing shopping trends will become more complex and efficient; that is to say, anyone will be able to shop anywhere through multiple distribution channels such as online, through mobile devices, and television based on the ubiquitous nature of evolving services. Besides actual clothing, virtual clothing will also add value. In the future some clothing will be digitally popularized with enhanced high-quality services and customization in addition to the more traditional values such as brand, design, and material.”
Lectra
Can you imagine being able to collaborate seamlessly with all those involved in the life cycle of a product—creation, development, sourcing, manufacturing, and marketing of fashion product lines? SPESA Expo attendees learned how by viewing a demonstration of Lectra’s new Fashion Product Lifecycle Management solution.
Delivering a collection, complete, and on time, while maintaining quality and respecting costs, is increasingly difficult to achieve in the current global business environment. The integration of business applications and collections and management software enables action to be taken in key areas that lead to improved performance: capacity for innovation, brand identity, frequency and time to market, quality assurance, control of development costs for products and materials, management and synchronization of multiple processes, and decision-making about collection content. Lectra’s PLM offering is linked to the company’s various applications for design, pattern making and prototyping, permitting the optimization of collections development processes.
With 17,000 customers and 1,500 employees worldwide, Lectra is a world leader in software, CAD/CAM equipment and related services dedicated to large-scale users of textiles, leather and industrial fabrics. Lectra addresses a broad array of major global markets, including fashion (apparel, accessories, and footwear), automotive, aeronautical, marine and furniture.
Lectra also demonstrated Modaris 3D Fit, a unique, state-of-the-art solution that enables pattern makers, designers, product developers, and marketing and sales teams to control fit, validate style and collections.
Paxar
Can you imagine looking in a mirror to identify coordinating accessories for a garment or to determine item size and color availability, or simply touching the mirror to page a sales associate without the trouble of leaving the fitting room? SPESA Expo attendees in Miami were able to experience this firsthand at Paxar’s magicmirror showcase in the Cool Zone.
When a customer places an RFID-tagged item in front of the magicmirror, it automatically displays rich personalized content including brand messaging and product proposition; description of the garment including size and color; item location and stock information; and mix-and-match style guides that suggest other items such as accessories to enhance the consumer’s shopping experience. From the dressing room, the shopper can touch the mirror which alerts a sales associate to obtain another size or the other recommended ensembles or accessory items.
The magicmirror enables retailers and brand owners to preserve brand premium and enhance consumers’ perceived value of apparel products by reaching them on an emotional level and positively influencing their purchase decisions at the moment of choice. In addition to helping the customer, the system assists retailers in tracking their merchandise and improving inventory management.
“We find it important for the adoption of item-level RFID that consumers “touch” the technology, getting a sense for how their shopping experiences can be exponentially enhanced,” commented Chris Robins, vice president of trade marketing and member of the global RFID team at Paxar. “magicmirror opens up a unique opportunity to communicate the story behind a tagged item, to foster an emotional attachment to a purchase and to expand customer service to an audience already used to highly innovative and personal ways of discovering products.”
Shapely Shadow and FastFit™ 360o
Can you imagine viewing a garment in 360o for merchandising and quality inspection, without having the physical garment? SPESA Expo attendees could experience this firsthand at with Shapely Shadow’s FastFit™ 360o in the Cool Zone.
FastFit™ is a visual communications software tool that allows users to capture movement and view garments in 360 degrees. Users can also record live video or import existing video into a computer using a digital video camera. The video camera can then be connected to a computer to download the video to create rotating images of garments in a matter of seconds.
Shapely Shadow, Inc. was launched in 1997 to provide solutions for the apparel industry to improve fit. As a pioneer of the commercial utilization of 3D data, Shapely Shadow produces three types of forms: traditional linen forms for global quality control of outerwear; RealForms™, which are pin-able and washable with soap and water; and RealFlesh™ forms, the softest of the form products, designed to show pressure (bra underwire) for the lingerie and swimsuit industry.
Shima Seiki
Can you imagine distributing a product before it is manufactured?
Just as newspapers are no longer manufactured in a central location and then distributed, Shima Seiki showed how garments might some day be delivered in digital form to your local drycleaners and then converted into the physical product to be worn. In the Cool Zone, Shima Seiki exhibited its 3D knitting machine for whole garment knitting. Garments can be designed, viewed virtually, and shipped before ever being manufactured.
Typically, a knitted garment consists of separate parts--the front and back body panels and the sleeves--which are sewn together afterward. In sharp contrast, Shima Seiki's revolutionary WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear is produced in one entire piece, three-dimensionally, directly on the knitting machine, requiring no post-production labor. Bulky and annoying stitches at the shoulders, sides and underarms are eliminated, offering fit and comfort superior to that of any other textile product. Additionally, products have improved stretch and mobility, and require minimal yarn consumption to manufacture.
Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd., established in 1962, is a mechatronics R&D, manufacturing and sales firm based in the city of Wakayama, Japan. It is a leading manufacturer of computerized glove and flatbed knitting machines and a world leader in the WholeGarment knitting process. Shima Seiki USA was launched in 1987 in Cranbury, New Jersey.
Tony McBryan, General Manager of Shima Seiki U.S.A. Inc., currently located in the Shima Seiki New York Design Center, comments, “Our process, beginning with design and development through manufacture, has been developed with increased efficiencies over the current process. The Cool Zone was an opportunity to show “virtual knitting” at the highest level as well as actual product manufacturing.”
Shima Seiki demonstrated its SWG-X WholeGarment Knitting Machine, SDS-ONE Full Design System, Visual Hanger System, and the Shimatronic Screen System.
SK C&C
Can you imagine trying on garments through your Internet browser – then can you imagine doing the same through your mobile phone? SPESA Expo attendees were able to see how. SK C&C exhibited its Magic Mirror to create a virtual model that could then be used for virtual try-on.
SK C&C’s Ubiquitous Fashion System (u-Fashion), provides consumers with another alternative to choose clothing in a user-friendly and efficiently high-tech manner. The purpose of the u-Fashion service is to offer an array of choices in fashion and apparel inside a ‘Virtual World’ regardless time and place, where anyone can virtually experience an unlimited number of choices.
SK C&C, based in Seoul, Korea, was established in 1990 as a systems integrator, and has become a global IT Service provider with cutting-edge solutions. The company offers a full suite of services including IT consulting, system integration, IT outsourcing, and solutions development for a variety of industries including telecommunications, finance, manufacturing, and public services.
Dr. Jae-Hyun Chung, Senior Vice President for SK C&C Inc., comments, "At SPESA Expo 2007, SK C&C introduced its ubiquitous solutions to the Western Hemisphere. SK C&C's u-Fashion business focuses primarily on consumer convenience and added-value by presenting visions of convergence technologies for the IT and fashion industries. Additionally, it seeks the creation of new service models, and the fruition of greater prosperity for the fashion/apparel industries in which modern consumers are dealing with a multitude of choices when shopping. u-Fashion evolves continuously, integrating its system and responding to customer's needs to unpredictable buying trends in the marketplaces."
TUKATECH
Can you imagine designing a product without ever making a physical sample?
TUKATECH demonstrated the attributes of its e-fit Simulator, which provides the ability to view a model in a draped garment in 3D, and simulate movement for fit and comfort. And, not just walking motions; other capabilities include the model exercising, playing basketball, soccer, even riding a bike. The image can be viewed frame by frame for fit approval. A large UK retailer and a Sri Lanka based manufacturer now have a clothing line that is 100% designed and approved electronically without samples being made, reducing the approval cycle to days, instead of weeks.
Using 3D draping, the digital pattern is wrapped onto the model, and an appropriate movement is applied to test the fit. Any fit issues are immediately apparent. The pattern can be adjusted, and the garment re-draped to view in the e-fit Simulator and sent to approvers for an e-fit session.
TUKATECH was formed in 1997 by Ram Sareen, an industry veteran. The company has continually added other business units, including TUKAweb and TUKAcenters, to provide production and development services over the internet to apparel businesses of all sizes. TUKAforms, which were shown in the Cool Zone, are soft and life-like duplicates of fit models to achieve a better fit, with pinnable and chalkable surfaces.
Comments Ram Sareen: “2007 is the year I believe 3D will be accepted on a broader scale in the apparel industry.”
Yuhan-Kimberly
Can you imagine applying color to fabric that doesn’t need to be pre-treated or post-processed? Yuhan-Kimberly DTP of South Korea exhibited its recently developed nano-colorants for digital textile printing which requires only heat to set the colorants. It was the first public demonstration of these colorants in the Western Hemisphere.
Images were designed, printed onto fabric, cut, sewn, and distributed in the Cool Zone. Fabric was printed on the Yuhan-Kimberly DTP printer and then heat-set before moving to Gerber’s 3500 cutting system without any additional fabric treatment requirements. The fabric characteristics do not change; there is no difference in the hand of the fabric between the printed and unprinted areas.
The assembly took place using CF Rimoldi and Durkopp Adler sewing equipment. Participants were able to place an order for their own fashion shirt, and receive it during the Expo.
Dr. Tim McCraw, General Manager of Yuhan-Kimberly’s Digital Textile Printing Business, comments, “The “Cool Zone” was an excellent venue from which Yuhan-Kimberly could demonstrate the capabilities of its new and unique inks and at the same time demonstrate how digital textile printing fits into the future digital supply chain. Yuhan-Kimberly was pleased to be a part of the Cool Zone at SPESA Expo 2007.”
Yuhan-Kimberly, Ltd., the parent of Yuhan-Kimberly DTP, is a joint venture company established in 1971 between Kimberly-Clark Corporation in the USA and Yuhan-Corporation in South Korea. Yuhan-Kimberly is a leading health and hygiene company in South Korea.
